8th October 2012
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#1 | | Gear interested
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Thread Starter | Soundproofing: green glue + drywall or other?
Hi,
I've searched through the forum and haven't quite found what I was looking for. Apologies if this topic has been beaten to death.
I have a 20x9 room used for recording. The building materials are as follows, from outside to inside:
cedar shingles
studs
thermal cellulose insulation (or insulation batts in a few places)
1 layer of residential drywall
It's a free-standing building with no shared walls or ceilings.
I read up on soundproofing and came away with two techniques:
* add green glue and a second layer of drywall on top of the existing drywall
* remove the drywall, replace it with "iso drywall", leave a gap, and add a 2nd layer of drywall.
The 2nd option was my contractor's suggestion. He's done soundproofing projects with sound engineers and he's otherwise very good. He's also willing to teach me how to do it, so I know he's not recommending something just to make money.
What's the best way to do this? Thanks!
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9th October 2012
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#2 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jul 2003 Location: Central Village CT
Posts: 3,214
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Before anyone can (really) answer this they would need more information.........
Is this just a jam space - or a recording environment?
Are you going to be practicing with a violin in the space or playing heavy metal at 120dB?
Without understanding your requirements we can't assess your needs.......
Your outer wall layer seems to be missing something - there must be some sort of sheathing behind those shingles - be it boards or plywood... shingles cannot be installed over air - and unless the studs are only inches apart from one another there is nothing behind the shingles to fasten them to based on your description.
Regardless, your contractor's suggestion is a bad one......... you should never leave "little gaps" between layers of mass.
Personally I never use "iso drywall" products - they are too expensive to make the huge additional costs for the materials, versus the small isolation gains they provide, make any sense.
Rod
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9th October 2012
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#3 | | Gear interested
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Thread Starter | Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Gervais Before anyone can (really) answer this they would need more information.........
Is this just a jam space - or a recording environment?
Are you going to be practicing with a violin in the space or playing heavy metal at 120dB?
Without understanding your requirements we can't assess your needs.......
Your outer wall layer seems to be missing something - there must be some sort of sheathing behind those shingles - be it boards or plywood... shingles cannot be installed over air - and unless the studs are only inches apart from one another there is nothing behind the shingles to fasten them to based on your description.
Regardless, your contractor's suggestion is a bad one......... you should never leave "little gaps" between layers of mass.
Personally I never use "iso drywall" products - they are too expensive to make the huge additional costs for the materials, versus the small isolation gains they provide, make any sense.
Rod | Rod: thanks so much for the reply and sorry for the lack of specificity.
* I did forget the sheathing, which is ironic since I installed it myself a couple of months ago. The wall is:
cedar shingles -> 2x tar paper -> sheathing or T1-11 siding (it varies) -> cellulose or batts and studs -> drywall -> paint
* Space is for recording, mostly loud electric guitars but also quiet acoustic instruments. No permanent drums, but I do record and monitor drums (loops) fairly loud.
* Band / jam setting should be possible but will be the exception, not the rule.
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9th October 2012
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#4 | | Gear addict
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 461
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Well, it really depends on how much "soundproofing" you need. Is it a quiet neighbourhood? How far is the nearest receiver that could be bothered by noise emission from the room?
Also, it will be necessary to address the roof-ceiling as well, so what height is there and what is the existing construction?
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9th October 2012
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#5 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jul 2003 Location: Central Village CT
Posts: 3,214
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OK - so the next set of questions would would then be this:
Is the space a room in your house - or an outbuilding located on the property.
If in the house - where in the house, and what space is directly above it?
If an outbuilding - how far from the house?
How far is the space that will house the room from the road - from the property lines, from neighboring properties?
Are you locate in the woods - in the center of a quiet town - in the center of a city that never sleeps?
Rod
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9th October 2012
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#6 | | Gear maniac
Joined: Sep 2010 Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 257
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How about the doors and windows? ceiling height?
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10th October 2012
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#7 | | Gear interested
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Thread Starter |
* Is it a quiet neighbourhood? Are you locate in the woods - in the center of a quiet town - in the center of a city that never sleeps?
Yes, mostly. Residential, but half a block from the town's main street, which gets some traffic. It's still very quiet leafy suburbia, though, so the most noise we get is the occasional Harley Davidson or ambulance. My front yard has 5 huge trees in it, which helps cut down on the noise getting to the house. The studio is in the back yard (so it's street -> trees -> house -> studio).
* How far is the space that will house the room from the road
100+ ft from any road. It's in the far back of the house.
* If an outbuilding - how far from the house?
Separate structure from the house, about 10 feet in the back. Two of the structure's walls are on the property line, with one set of neighbors at the back and one set on the right.
* How far is the nearest receiver that could be bothered by noise emission from the room?
Right wall is on the property line with the neighbor's backyard. Their house is about 30 feet away from the front of the studio.
* The roof-ceiling as well, so what height is there? What is the existing construction?
The ceiling is 10 ft in most of the studio and 9 ft in the entryway. It's drywall on joists. There's no actual roof, just marine plywood with a thin waterproofing coat on it (it used to be a roof deck).
* How about the doors and windows?
Door is 30 x 76 outswing with glass panels. I'm having it replaced with a solid inswing door but could use some suggestions there (I haven't picked the door yet). Two windows, cheap aluminum, 45 x 36 each. I have a quote From Soundproof Windows Inc to install inner windows inside the existing windows and reglaze the current windows.
Thanks for any advice, guys.
Last edited by rogthefrog; 10th October 2012 at 12:42 AM..
Reason: typo
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11th October 2012
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#8 | | Gear addict
Joined: Jun 2009 Location: Michigan, USA
Posts: 375
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Generally you'll be looking to decouple the framing, and add a lot of damped mass.
Remove drywall, set up a new framing point either by using clips & Channels or a separate stud wall.
Then double 5/8" drywall with a squirt of damping compound.
After you have the bunker built, you'll turn your attention to the holes in the bunker. Outlets, ventilation, doors and windows are most common.
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13th October 2012
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#9 | | Gear interested
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Thread Starter | Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White Generally you'll be looking to decouple the framing, and add a lot of damped mass.
Remove drywall, set up a new framing point either by using clips & Channels or a separate stud wall.
Then double 5/8" drywall with a squirt of damping compound.
After you have the bunker built, you'll turn your attention to the holes in the bunker. Outlets, ventilation, doors and windows are most common. | Thanks. "A squirt of damping compound" = what exactly? Do you mean Green Glue or something equivalent? I watched their installation videos and it looks like you need a lot more than "a squirt."
I'm new to this so I appreciate the advice.
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13th October 2012
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#10 | | Gear addict
Joined: Jun 2009 Location: Michigan, USA
Posts: 375
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Generally people install 1, 2 or 3 tubes of Green Glue per 4x8 sheet. 3 tubes is a waste and I highly recommend not using that much, despite the recommendations of dealers selling it. 2 is plenty
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