Soundproofing garage (will this work)

[joe mamma]

No one! WTF

[AndreBenoit]

5 foot is a lot of lost space in an area that is already quite small, I'd brick up the inside of the garage door with concrete block for some mass then put that 5 feet to better use with some good isolation & a MASSIVE broadband absorber full of pink fluffy insulation! If you were willing to give up 5 feet then a foot of concrete block & a 4 foot absorber will do wonders for your bass response

Andre

[joe mamma]

Thanks Andre. i was planing to use the space for storage. my question is will the 5' space from the garage door & 2' space be good for soundproofing purposes? if not i'll have to go another route

[GIK Acoustics]

I will +1 what Andre said above (How many Andre's do we have here anyways?!)

Originally Posted by joe mamma

Thanks Andre. i was planing to use the space for storage. my question is will the 5' space from the garage door & 2' space be good for soundproofing purposes? if not i'll have to go another route

The extra space won't make for any benefit in soundproofing. If you aren't going to build up the garage door, just use that 5' of the space for the room you are building (unless you need it otherwise). Larger volumes are much better for acoustics.

[jhbrandt]

Joe,

Rule of thumb on soundproofing; Doubling the mass OR the air gap will improve the STL of a MAM partition by 3 to 5 db in practice.

When you build the 'new' wall in front of the plastic door, it must be as massive as the exterior walls & you must seal it 360 degrees around it's perimeter. THEN you must build new massive walls INSIDE this. 2" air gap between frames is very common. The interior walls do not need to be decoupled from the floor slab since it is on the earth. The interior ceiling must either sit on the new interior walls or be hung from the structure via resilient hanger like Mason HD. The devil is in the details and this is not all of them.

Cheers,
John

[joe mamma]

thanks guys! thats answers alot ... so much for my 5' air gap theory