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Old 14th September 2012   #1
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Green Needle Records Studio Build

I have a window problem.

The exterior walls of the recording room have vinyl double pane windows installed in the outer most portion of the wall.
We built an inner 2x4 wall an inch away from that outer wall and left holes with the same RO as the outside walls at these windows.

The windows have 3/8 and 5/8th laminate in each so the mass is right but they are standard residential windows installed with shims and spray foam around the edges of the window in the Ro.

So i was thinking i could use thick rubber to run up from the reveal on the inner 2x4 wall up to an 1/8" away from the vinyl window frame and then use acoustic caulk to seal it to the frame, then lay some drywall on that and finish with a 1/4 round not touching the vinyl window Payne.
Does that sound reasonable?

Should i also do something around the inner side of the foamed edges of the window first to improve the isolation of the foam in the space?
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Old 15th September 2012   #2
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Old 17th September 2012   #3
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Old 21st September 2012   #4
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Old 21st September 2012   #5
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are the windows and spaces around them air tight? if so then i think you're as good as it's going to get from that perspective. if you're asking how to finish off the space between the windows so its neat looking - depending on the actual depth between the window jambs you could lay in a rigid insulation w/ cover cover all the way around them. you want to be able to "breath" in the space not seal it so the air gap is contiguous between the inner and outer shells.
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Old 21st September 2012   #6
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are the windows and spaces around them air tight? if so then i think you're as good as it's going to get from that perspective. if you're asking how to finish off the space between the windows so its neat looking - depending on the actual depth between the window jambs you could lay in a rigid insulation w/ cover cover all the way around them. you want to be able to "breath" in the space not seal it so the air gap is contiguous between the inner and outer shells.
Thanks Glen, i guess what i can't get my head around is the foam on the outer space (the window frame edge to the Rough opening) that foam being basically mass-less. Its air tight but does it create a weakness worth trying to fix for LF's? This 1 inch space could be filled with drywall on the outer wall, then i run the return through touching only on rubber on the inner wall.
thoughts?
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Old 21st September 2012   #7
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how much foam are we talking about? it's probably not an issue. i'd still just stick with rigid insulation and cloth to finish the gap between windows.
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Old 22nd September 2012   #8
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how much foam are we talking about? it's probably not an issue. i'd still just stick with rigid insulation and cloth to finish the gap between windows.
Thanks
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Old 23rd September 2012   #9
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I should mention that these windows are dual pane and rest as one unit on the exterior wall, is that how you understood it?
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Old 23rd September 2012   #10
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so the window unit assembly is attached to the exterior wall but you want it decoupled from the interior wall? you're not using two assemblies?
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Old 23rd September 2012   #11
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so the window unit assembly is attached to the exterior wall but you want it decoupled from the interior wall? you're not using two assemblies?
Given my knowledge at the time of the exterior framing i thought a double pane on one assembly(outer wall) would do it.
There is a way i can carry the return across to the inner wall without coupling it though.
Do you think having the 2 panes in the one assembly will be a major concern?
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Old 24th September 2012   #12
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what do you mean by return? are you talking about the jamb?
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Old 24th September 2012   #13
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what do you mean by return? are you talking about the jamb?
Yes the surface from the inner window frame on the outer wall through to the innermost 2x4 wall edge. Over the air gap.
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Old 24th September 2012   #14
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depending on the gap between them, you could trim with cloth only (if it's close) or use the rigid fiberglass + cloth to span it.
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Old 24th September 2012   #15
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depending on the gap between them, you could trim with cloth only (if it's close) or use the rigid fiberglass + cloth to span it.
Here is a pic.
It seems to me that the gap needs to be sealed over from the room to the inside glass pane (inside win frame)(which acts as inside wall extension) or the the double wall assembly is nullified? No?
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Last edited by GreenNeedle; 25th September 2012 at 06:07 AM.. Reason: additional notes
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Old 25th September 2012   #16
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If you're not going to put in an inner window, then yes, extend the finish from the inner wall opening to within about 10mm (3/8") from the exterior window jamb and then seal it with backer rod and caulk.
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Old 25th September 2012   #17
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If you're not going to put in an inner window, then yes, extend the finish from the inner wall opening to within about 10mm (3/8") from the exterior window jamb and then seal it with backer rod and caulk.
Ok thanks.
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Old 28th September 2012   #18
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If you're not going to put in an inner window, then yes, extend the finish from the inner wall opening to within about 10mm (3/8") from the exterior window jamb and then seal it with backer rod and caulk.
Given that the existing is a double pane, if i were to add another window on the inside wall what would be a wise choice for type, single pane, double?
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Old 28th September 2012   #19
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i would add an additional window on the inside wall to match the MSM configuration of the walls.
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Old 4th January 2013   #20
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Hi all. I'm trying to get to the bottom of finishes in the tracking room. I just primed it and it really changed the sound in here.
What i really dont want to do is kill all the nice high highs.
I was thinking a flat paint because i like the look but perhaps should use an eggshell or pearl and keep some sheen on the untreated walls.
Am i over thinking this?
How important is even damping across the spectrum for the purpose of strictly lowering decay of the room?
The floor will be a sealed concrete so i have that as a hard surface as well.
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