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I have used standard ceiling track in numerous studios where it helped the owner reach budget - and it might surprise you to hear that none of them have come back to me and said the ceilings collapsed because the track could not support the weight....... |
Hey Rod, just saw this. I think there might be another consideration..but you tell me..ie...TRUSSES? I had already typed my reply in notepad and don't wanna retype it. Ok...so read this and tell me what you think. Actually, I have a few other ideas, because basically, I "don't think" he has enough room to actually insert 4" thick panels into a grid system. Even inserting standard acoustical tile panels takes some room above, but 4"? Sounds like a PITA to me.
That's why I offer this.....and please, this is only in regards to my propensity for ...well...DIY.
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So the standard drop ceiling would be the most economical way to go huh?
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I think it depends on how deep your pockets are.
Personally, I couldn't afford to hire someone to install a dropped ceiling grid. I'd have to DIY, which I've never done. But I've tackled tons of projects that "I'd never done" before and they turned out just fine. So yea, it "seems" like the most economical...that is...unless you see a different way to hang a complete ceiling full of panels.
Of course, you have to look at the inherent problems too. Like...wrapping X number of 6" thick panels sufficiently tight so the fabric doesn't sag. And then, installing 6" thick panels into a 8-9" deep space, with wire hangers all over the place..and THEN, wrestling batt insulation into the gap above the panels...er...did I mention..arrrrgggggg
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Personally, sounds like a real PITA...but that's me. Who knows though. You might think it's fun.
And btw, common sense dictates, if your existing ceiling is drywall over ceiling joists, the hardware that the wire hangers hang from, would have to be fastened through the drywall into the existing joists. This means, unless you want the existing joists to dictate the grid pattern, you need to hang the support rails(the continuous long rails) perpendicular to the joists. This insures the joist spacing doesn't dictate the 24" width requirement of the metal grid, as you can hang the long rails at any point along them, vs if you hang the long rails parallel with the joists, if the joists are 16"oc...well, you might get my drift here.
Just a heads up so to speak.
Another thing to think about, although I'm not neccessarily saying it's a problem, but I thought it might be worth mentioning. First off, you didn't describe what the existing ceiling construction is. Is this a basement? If so, is the ceiling already drywalled or is it exposed joists? Or is it a standard residential ceiling? If so, is there a floor above, or a roof. Makes a big difference. If this room is standard residential ceiling with roof above, you might wanna check whether or not the construction is rafter/joist or trusses.
The thing is, this entire proposed ceiling assembly will NOT be light as you think.
Depending on the size of the room, if the roof support system is trusses, there are other considerations, as from my understanding, you may NOT want to hang a fairly heavy assembly from the bottom chord of a truss. From what I've read, some truss systems are designed to "float", where even the connections to partition walls must allow movement in such a way it doesn't crack the drywall. Now, I'm speaking from a NON expert status here...hopefully...Rod can chime in on this..if need be. It's just another heads up..so to speak.
On the other hand, there might be a few alternatives. But only you can weigh the cost/labor/DIY/PITA benefit ratios per an existing construction standpoint. I think if it were me, and I only had DIY considerations, and it isn't a TRUSSED roof situation, I'd probably opt for custom building/installing a custom grid that was strong enough to span the room in a larger grid, like 4'x4', or depending on room SIZE, maybe even 4'x 8' with as few wire hangers as possible. And I can think of two or three ways to do it..if it were me. Of course..you skillsets, tools, experience etc carry a lot of weight here.
The thing I'm thinking here is...installation ease by virtue of sequence. In this case, I'm "thinkin" ...CHEAP...EASY TO BUILD...EASY TO INSTALL by sequencing the hanging of custom built MODULES.
If you want some more input on this..just holla. Otherwise...good luck with your decisions.
1. Predetermine hanger requirements per span of longest members by virtue of weight vs deflection of chosen material/profile design.
Note, this is precisely why commercial grid systems are economical, as NORMALLY, you can install the system easily and cheaply. Unfortunately, in your case, the given gap/wire hangers will make the filler materials difficult to install...in my view only.
2. To my way of thinking, once the hanger grid spacing is established I'd probably mark off the grid on the ceiling, and then install the wire hanger hardware at the appropriate points. Usually, these are clips that fasten to the existing ceiling system..what ever it is. You might even be able to use simple eye screws..or equivalent...ie..what ever works for ya.
3. Once the hanger hardware is installed, this is when I would fasten the batt insulation to the existing ceiling, using staples, plastic straps or whatever.
4. Assuming you've already cut your absorption material to appropriate sizes to fit whatever grid you've chosen, and by virtue of the grid member profile, you might be able to hang a "module" of the grid, insulation already installed into the module. This would allow you to hang a series of modules and level them up individually.
5. Depending on your chosen grid style/member material/profile..to my way of thinking, if you chose POST fabric installation you could now staple squares or full room length/module width pieces of fabric to the frame members, and then install finish trim.
Note. Depending on you DIY skillset, design and fabrication level, you might want to think about whether your design/installation sequence would allow for PRE COVERING the insulation...or POST installing fabric...ie...you MAY want the grid members to allow for POST fastening..ie..staples into wood with some kind of finish trim..or not. Depends on various factors, your easthetic concerns notwithstanding. OR..you might even PRE install the fabric on the modules too!! It all depends on your ultimate goals. Usually, mine are ease of installation. I hate getting in the middle of an install only to find out I DID'NT think of something that stops me dead in my tracks.
Well, I'm outta time and theres a lot more to detailing a system like this. If you want to know more...just holla, although I think Rod would probably roll his eyes. But his pockets are probably deeper than mine.
Here is what I'm talking about.,
That's all the time I had for.
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