20th July 2012
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#1 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter | My new pannels |
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21st July 2012
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#2 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Oceania
Posts: 2,469
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Originally Posted by pompon It's a lot of labor ... | No doubt! Awesome job!!! |
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21st July 2012
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#3 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,940
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Those look so nice!!!
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21st July 2012
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#4 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
The weight is 14 pounds per panel (same as 244 GIK panel) and 5.5 inch deep too.
(4 inch fiberglass)
I took very light wood ... the same wood that use for artist painter frame.
The difficulty is to install the fabric professionnally.
GIK is probably better than me ... and they probably use a fabric easier to install. Mine is not extensible and have a sort of pattern inside. If the tension is not the same all around, the pattern can have some waves inside.
Tomorrow, I will cover the 9 other panels and hope to be able to make better than this one.
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21st July 2012
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#5 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
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In my experiences with wrapping panels - they actually do not need to be wrapped as TIGHT as everyone thinks. For no lines on mine, I wrapped them tight, but didn't pull very hard on each of the corners when I went to staple. If you do have any lines, you might be able to use a blowdryer to tighten it up. I haven't tried the blowdryer idea, but it certainly works for tuning skin drum heads!
Edit: Oh, and your panels look brilliant by the way.
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21st July 2012
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#6 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,590
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The woodwork looks excellent. Pity to cover it with fabric. Really, apart from the issue of wanting to contain fibers, it's a shame to cover that woodwork.
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21st July 2012
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#7 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
I have redone my job with less tight and it's much much better. I am verry happy now.
Take me 30 min per panel to cover (with help). It's possible to do alone but it's much easier with help.
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
10 panels total. |
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21st July 2012
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#8 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
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They look even better now, good work!
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Gearslutz App
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22nd July 2012
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#9 | | Gear Head
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 47
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nice!
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24th July 2012
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#10 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
Here's my basstrap (coner)
It's a triangle 24x24 side (34 front).
It's a mix between pink fluffy and rigid fiberglass.
17x17 triangle of pink fluffy (I was using R31 ... 6 slice of 9.5 inch)
1 panel of 2 inch CB300 rigid fiberglass (OC703 equivalent) unfaced.
1.25 panels of 2 inch CB300 faced
I put some wire to avoid my pink fluffy compact
Side it's massonite panel and triangle it's a simple plywood.
It's probably around 3 hrs per basstrap.
Next it's put the fabric on them ... probably around 20-30 min per basstrap estimated.
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25th July 2012
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#11 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,590
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What kind of wood did you use for your bass trap in the first picture? It looks like clear trim stock. I don't see a single knot.
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25th July 2012
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#12 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
Certain Teed CB300.
It's OC703 equivalent for what I have read
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26th July 2012
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#13 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
| Quote:
Originally Posted by pompon Certain Teed CB300.
It's OC703 equivalent for what I have read | He asked for the wood, not absorbent
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Gearslutz App
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26th July 2012
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#14 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,590
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type de bois in bass piege? (Type of wood in bass trap? assuming French dictionary gave me correct words)
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26th July 2012
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#15 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter | Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyrocks type de bois in bass piege? (Type of wood in bass trap? assuming French dictionary gave me correct words) | Ah ok, it's "Tilleul blanc". This wood is very light and don't move over time once it's perfectly dry.
It's the wood used for artist frame.
For my big basstrap, it's generic wood ... plywood and standard 2x2 found in homehardware, rona, reno depot ...
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26th July 2012
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#16 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,590
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merci.
Tilleul blanc=linden tree=basswood |
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27th July 2012
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#17 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
Here's my setup now:
[IMG]  [/IMG]
It's not perfect but it's darn nice! It's not damped. No panels have FRK except the coners.
By ears ... I will need something in the center of the 2 front panels. I have 2 extra panels (not framed) and when I put in the center, it's better. While I have 1 extra panel on the right wall, I can move it in the center. I wonder if will be a good idea to try a diffuser there ?
BTW ... I tried a carpet and it's kill the ambiance ... not a good idea.
I think diffusors on the ceiling a good idea ?
Again, while I don't want redo my back panels to reflect instead absorb ... side diffusors will work great or not so great ?
My first reflexion point is a door and the far panel see no speaker. If I move this panel on the door, can I put diffusors each side of me or it's not a good idea ? I can do another panel empty (no acoustic panel inside) ... just for the look.
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27th July 2012
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#18 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
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A few notes:
1. Room looks great! Panels look superb installed.
2. Diffusion on the ceiling would be a good bet, but I would read much more into them to decide if its something you need and have the patience to learn about. They can be quite easy to build, but not nearly as easy to learn correct placement and the correct size to build for optimal use in your room. Diffusers incorrectly designed and place could make it sound worse.
3. Do you have insulation above the grid ceiling? This is a great area to dampen the height modes and can be really beneficial, especially at low cost. I would look into that. Since you cannot easily hang panels from a grid ceiling, an easy trick for your first reflection points could be to fill up there with fluffy insulation, and make a 2x4 frame wrapped in fabric to replace the ceiling tiles at the reflection points up there. Plus, it'd probably look pretty cool.
4. Yes, I would suggest hanging a (functional) panel on the door.
5. Absorption would more than likely help more on the front wall than diffusion. I would move the extra right wall panel to the wall, and frame your extra panels for use on the front wall.
6. Have you experimented more with the speaker placement? The distance from your front wall does not seem optimal for speaker placement. More often than not, we see nulls formed due to distance from the front wall. I would try moving them forwards and back 4-6" at a time to decide best placement. Moving them back further may be beneficial on two different levels - you may see the frequency of the null going upwards, as well as the intensity lessening. The good thing about moving the frequency upwards is that it is now easier to trap with OC70X and the like, and you have traps very close behind the speakers. Although, you may have already experimented and gotten the results you have. If this is the case, then disregard this.
7. If its possible to change the distance of mounting, have you tried to install the traps with an air gap? In most cases we see the extension of the panels absorbing some lower frequencies with addition of an air gap. With your decent amount of traps, I'm sure it could make quite a large difference.
8. Where did you try the carpet/rug?
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27th July 2012
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#19 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
I have 19 inch of pink fluffy in my ceiling ! 8-) 2 Slices of R31.
I have to find the best placement for my speaker. I have REW to see the live graph when I move my speaker.
My panels have 4 inch ... + 3/4 inch frame. When they against the wall, I have already 3/4 air gap.
What I look to improve if get more in the music now. I am spectator of the performance while I want more be little more with them.
I will experiment cloud while I have 2 extra FRK panel (I will just put the FRK face the ceiling to have the absorption toward me). I think that's will be kill the ambiance. My suspended ceiling reflec to me.
The carpet was between me and the speakers and was killing the ambiance. I can try to put under me to see what happend.
I was thinking about very light diffusers. I see product like oralex or gik gridfuser ... they not too expansive and will try 4 x 2*2' to experiment them .. if they not good for the ceiling, I can use them elsewhere. Quote:
Originally Posted by kasmira A few notes:
1. Room looks great! Panels look superb installed.
2. Diffusion on the ceiling would be a good bet, but I would read much more into them to decide if its something you need and have the patience to learn about. They can be quite easy to build, but not nearly as easy to learn correct placement and the correct size to build for optimal use in your room. Diffusers incorrectly designed and place could make it sound worse.
3. Do you have insulation above the grid ceiling? This is a great area to dampen the height modes and can be really beneficial, especially at low cost. I would look into that. Since you cannot easily hang panels from a grid ceiling, an easy trick for your first reflection points could be to fill up there with fluffy insulation, and make a 2x4 frame wrapped in fabric to replace the ceiling tiles at the reflection points up there. Plus, it'd probably look pretty cool.
4. Yes, I would suggest hanging a (functional) panel on the door.
5. Absorption would more than likely help more on the front wall than diffusion. I would move the extra right wall panel to the wall, and frame your extra panels for use on the front wall.
6. Have you experimented more with the speaker placement? The distance from your front wall does not seem optimal for speaker placement. More often than not, we see nulls formed due to distance from the front wall. I would try moving them forwards and back 4-6" at a time to decide best placement. Moving them back further may be beneficial on two different levels - you may see the frequency of the null going upwards, as well as the intensity lessening. The good thing about moving the frequency upwards is that it is now easier to trap with OC70X and the like, and you have traps very close behind the speakers. Although, you may have already experimented and gotten the results you have. If this is the case, then disregard this.
7. If its possible to change the distance of mounting, have you tried to install the traps with an air gap? In most cases we see the extension of the panels absorbing some lower frequencies with addition of an air gap. With your decent amount of traps, I'm sure it could make quite a large difference.
8. Where did you try the carpet/rug? | |
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27th July 2012
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#20 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
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Great, it seems you've got most of it sorted out then.
GIK's gridfusors are a good match for drop ceilings. And just as you posted, it isn't too hard to mount them elsewhere either, if you needed to. And a good price! The Auralex ones freak me out since they're hollow, but I'm not sure if that really affects their performance in a bad way.
Are you located in France? Perhaps you might be able to get some of Jens' Optiffusers for the back wall. They are very light and cost effective as well for a good amount of square footage. The price also includes shipping anywhere in the EU: http://resonatorstockholm.com/optiffuser/ |
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28th July 2012
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#21 | | Gear interested
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 29
Thread Starter |
I made some reading with REW
before : Bare room. Old speaker placement 55 inch from the wall.
After: 19 inch pink fluffy in ceiling, 10 panels 4 inch, 4 basstrap (34 inch face) floor to ceiling. Speaker at 26 inch from the wall.
1/24:
Before:
After:
RT60
Before:
After:
Waterfall:Before:
After:
I have a dip at 90 hz ... probably able to fix moving my speakers.
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20th August 2012
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#22 | | Gear interested
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 16
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I know it has been a few months since you have done this. What did the cost per corner trap come down to?
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