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12.5 and 9.5 wallboard
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Old 11th June 2012   #1
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12.5 and 9.5 wallboard

Hi.

I've proofed the live room with rock wool and 12.5 wallboard. I have extended and want to add to the soundproofing. So im going to put resilent bar and another layer of drywall over the existing drywall. I've read that two layers of wall board are better but at different thickness. Does it matter which thickness sits on the stud or is it same difference.

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Antony.
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Old 11th June 2012   #2
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Originally Posted by antony View Post
Hi.

I've proofed the live room with rock wool and 12.5 wallboard. I have extended and want to add to the soundproofing. So im going to put resilent bar and another layer of drywall over the existing drywall. I've read that two layers of wall board are better but at different thickness. Does it matter which thickness sits on the stud or is it same difference.

Thanks

Antony.
Antony,

there is no advantage to using differing thicknesses of drywall - use the thickest you can afford..... this is about mass - 16mm is better than 12mm and is much better than 9mm

There is (however) a huge disadvantage to using resilient channel in between layers of drywall - very highly NOT RECOMMENDED..... if you need to decouple in order for this to work for you - first remove the drywall so you can attach the resilient system directly to the studs.

Rod
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Old 11th June 2012   #3
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Cheers for reply.

Would you suggest putting a rubber matting against the stud then resilient bar then drywall.

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Old 11th June 2012   #4
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nope - the matting is next to useless............
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Old 11th June 2012   #5
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Cool saved me some there. Last one what about rubber devider between joist and wall?

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Old 11th June 2012   #6
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does not work well for the purpose of decoupling,
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Old 11th June 2012   #7
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Great cheers, so basically the usual brick,stud,rock wool,resilient bar then drywall works best on the basis more mass better results.

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Old 11th June 2012   #8
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and if you slide that stud wall away from the brick it is even better than the resilient channel without the added cost.......
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Old 11th June 2012   #9
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I don't think I have the option to do that as I am only having to do one wall and the ceiling which is a 20ft eave ceiling. Guess I could fix it to the side walls but would that defeat the object?
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Old 11th June 2012   #10
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there is no advantage to using differing thicknesses of drywall - use the thickest you can afford..... this is about mass - 16mm is better than 12mm and is much better than 9mm
Rod, I did hear from a reliable source that 2 layers are better than one of equivalent thickness in terms of sound insulation. So 2 x 10mm will be better than 1 x 20mm. By how much I don't know. The difference is caused by the fact the two sheets flex and rub against each other, that friction gives extra losses.
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Old 11th June 2012   #11
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Rod, I did hear from a reliable source that 2 layers are better than one of equivalent thickness in terms of sound insulation. So 2 x 10mm will be better than 1 x 20mm. By how much I don't know. The difference is caused by the fact the two sheets flex and rub against each other, that friction gives extra losses.
This makes sense on an impact level, but I really don't see it making a large difference in actual SPL measured. Maybe, though, curious to hear his input on this as well.
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Old 11th June 2012   #12
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20mm drywall would have a coincidence frequency in a much less favourable frequency band compared to 10mm. That is one good reason - the other as you say is some friction damping. No studio guy ever complained about enough low freq sound insulation and not enough mids and highs - usually the other way around. So the damping is a secondary and less useful benefit.
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Old 11th June 2012   #13
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Sebg is (of course) correct - which is why it is recommended that you do not laminate sheets (i.e. glue them together) when constructing isolating wall assemblies - that essentially creates a single sheet....

The best possible bang for the buck is multiple layers of 5/8" (16mm) drywall.

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Old 23rd July 2012   #14
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and if you slide that stud wall away from the brick it is even better than the resilient channel without the added cost.......
This is very useful advice for space restricted builds; I have been planning to convert my garage for some time but worry about the loss of space & as such was considering a resilient channel system. Does this mean I will gain as good a result by simply moving the studs away from the brickwork, even if it's only by as much space as the clip & channel would have taken up?
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