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Exposed trusses in new studio build
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crzmky
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#1
6th May 2012
Old 6th May 2012
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Exposed trusses in new studio build

Just bought a new house and will be building a studio in half of it
Have built project studios before, but want this one to be THE ONE!
I'm wanting to open up the ceiling in the tracking room and expose the Trusses. The tracking room is a 20x20 converted garage with 8 1/2 ft ceilings.
Really want to get them up to at least 12 ft.
Has anyone done this?
Any negative effects on sound?
I'm thinking the trusses may help some with diffusion?
Oh well, I'm open to any other ideas as well
Thanks all Ryan
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6th May 2012
Old 6th May 2012
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Exposed

Not sure what you mean but a higher ceiling is nearly always desireable.
Do you mean no ceiling, just an A Roof?
If you don't need the extra soundproofing caused by the horizonatal 8.5foot ceiling plus gap, then go high for sure.

DD
crzmky
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7th May 2012
Old 7th May 2012
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7th May 2012
Old 7th May 2012
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you could do it. it would be good to do for acoustics. however what are you isolation requirements? it could make reaching a high level of isolation much more difficult - whether from outside sounds coming in, or you potentially bothering neighbors...
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crzmky
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7th May 2012
Old 7th May 2012
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There are neighbors, but not to close. As long as it is quiet inside their house I'm happy only have the one neighbor that is a concern, he others are far enough.
Was reading about quiterock? Might help on ceiling. I will own this property, so I am willing to spend the money and do it right. Really want this to be the last studio I ever build.
Also open to ideas on using the existing 8.5ft ceilings? Was thinking about maybe just dry walling up a foot or so between trusses maybe at different heights as to create a large ceiling defusser. Then, blow piles of insulation in.
Thoughts? R
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7th May 2012
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thing is sound is 3D - walls, floor, ceiling, doors, windows, trusses, pipes, ducts, etc are all subject to it. so isolation on portion and ignoring on others will typically result in less isolation. that said, selectively fixing real weak points - thin windows, hollow doors, holes in walls, doors, windows etc can help improve things. if your air ducts (if you have them) can also be a source of inbound/outbound sound to baffles can help to minimize transfer as well as quiet down the air unit / flow noises. next beefing up the walls and ceiling and floors with 5/8" type X drywall will generally be cost effective but you need to examine your structure and make sure it can support the additional mass - particularly floor and ceiling. sometimes multiple layers will do, other times some Green Glue (GG) will help. after that you are to get into changing the structure to include an inner isolation room with all the attendant efforts and costs.
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