Wooden floorboards

[AKJM]

Firstly thanks to all on here who have provided a mountain of information that everyone setting up a room should use. There are just a couple of things I need to ask - or be pointed in the direction of appropriate threads I may have missed...

... I am setting up a new room at home. It has a carpet that I will be removing, and underneath are wooden floorboards - not wood flooring, but original floorboards (possibly pine) from when the house was built around 1880s.

As sound proofing will not be an issue, could/would it be a good idea to keep these and not even put other flooring on top - any foreseeable problems with acoustics?

Also I would like to keep the original sash windows and not double glaze directly- any recommendations on window proofing that could fit on top?

Many thanks

[Jens Eklund]

Flooring question

[AKJM]

Originally Posted by Jens Eklund

Flooring question

thanks - I already read this thread and I couldn't find specifics about wooden floorboards - only info on wood flooring - are these essentially the same thing in terms of acoustics?

maybe I am being too paranoid thinking about the small gaps inbetween the boards ...?

[Jens Eklund]

Originally Posted by AKJM

maybe I am being too paranoid thinking about the small gaps inbetween the boards ...?

Aha, ok. Now I understand the question.


How these small gaps will affect the boundary condition of the floor depends on what’s underneath. If wool or other porous material, it will absorb a certain frequency range, most likely below about 100-500 Hz (caution; very rough figure) depending on some parameters like total depth to solid boundary etc. The floor will then behave like a perforated panel (an array of helmholtz absorbers.

If there’s nothing underneath the gaps, it will reflect more or less like a solid floor except for very high frequencies where some (but extremely limited) scattering will occur.

Either way; nothing I would worry too much about. The floor will be reflective in the important range (above the modal region).

[AKJM]

Originally Posted by Jens Eklund

Aha, ok. Now I understand the question.


How these small gaps will affect the boundary condition of the floor depends on what’s underneath. If wool or other porous material, it will absorb a certain frequency range, most likely below about 100-500 Hz (caution; very rough figure) depending on some parameters like total depth to solid boundary etc. The floor will then behave like a perforated panel (an array of helmholtz absorbers.

If there’s nothing underneath the gaps, it will reflect more or less like a solid floor except for very high frequencies where some (but extremely limited) scattering will occur.

Either way; nothing I would worry too much about. The floor will be reflective in the important range (above the modal region).

ok thanks for your reply. I guess I will setup as it is - then if when I measure there are problems, I will look into fitting wood flooring on top.

thanks!

[DanDan]

A reflective floor will cause flutter echo if the ceiling above is parallel and reflective. Floor boards, uneven, with gaps, will be much less destructively reflective. Don't even them out much if you can avoid it.
This could be a very nice look and sound.
I had such a floor once, painted gloss black. Cool.
Do remember ceiling treatment though.

I don't know where you are but there are companies which specialise in secondary glazing. Secondary Glazing

If you don't need the bit of soundproofing, I have seen double glazed 'cassettes' replacing original glass panes.

DD

[AKJM]

Originally Posted by DanDan

A reflective floor will cause flutter echo if the ceiling above is parallel and reflective. Floor boards, uneven, with gaps, will be much less destructively reflective. Don't even them out much if you can avoid it.
This could be a very nice look and sound.
I had such a floor once, painted gloss black. Cool.
Do remember ceiling treatment though.

I don't know where you are but there are companies which specialise in secondary glazing. Secondary Glazing

If you don't need the bit of soundproofing, I have seen double glazed 'cassettes' replacing original glass panes.

DD

black sounds good! might try that...

yeh I have plenty of stuff to hang from the ceilings - lower ceiling now so I guess I can hang it pretty flush rather than using wire to lower the height of the room...?

definitely gonna look into the secondary glazing - am in the UK

anyone have advice on something else - I have a slanted wall on one side - running along the entire length - where the roof is - should I replicate this slant on the other side by hanging angled pads?