13th October 2011
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#1 | | Gear Head
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 71
Thread Starter | Space Between Bass Traps and Wall or Not?
Most pro studios have the bass traps hanging like paintings on the wall, isn't it better to have space in between the wall and the bass trap or will there be a huge difference?
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13th October 2011
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#2 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2009 Location: Stockholm
Posts: 4,226
| Quote:
Originally Posted by npatro22 Most pro studios have the bass traps hanging like paintings on the wall, ... | I have never seen what you’re describing in a "pro" studio. Broadband absorbers maybe but not bass absorbers. |
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13th October 2011
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#3 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,264
| Quote:
Originally Posted by npatro22 Most pro studios have the bass traps hanging like paintings on the wall, isn't it better to have space in between the wall and the bass trap or will there be a huge difference? | Basically yes, when spaced off the wall it will absorb more low end. But when using broad band panels it is best to straddle the corner to get the best bang out of them. Not that they actually go "bang" but....... |
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13th October 2011
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#4 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Midwest
Posts: 4,739
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Oh Jens....
OP,
It's definately a good idea to get air behind the trap.... space from the wall. 'Free depth' some call it. It makes the trap more efficient at lower frequencies without having to purchase more fiber.
Keep in mind, that just because you see the trap frame touching the wall, does not necessarily mean that the fiber is full frame depth... there may be space in there.
Jens is implying that most "pro" joints don't really hang traps, rather they are built into the wall structure.
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13th October 2011
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#5 | | Gear Head
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 71
Thread Starter |
thanks glen
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13th October 2011
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#6 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2009 Location: Stockholm
Posts: 4,226
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13th October 2011
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#7 | | Jack of all Trades
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,268
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Eklund | Thank you for actually helping the man with location links rather then just saying "Try Search." There needs to be more of you. lol
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14th October 2011
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#8 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Dec 2005 Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 871
| Quote:
Originally Posted by JoRillo Thank you for actually helping the man with location links rather then just saying "Try Search." There needs to be more of you. lol | Man, Jens has a machine gun loaded with good links. I swear he has a program where every thread on this forum is organized into common topics. This way when someone asks a question he can just hit the button that applies to the topic and off they fire.
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14th October 2011
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#9 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,264
| Quote:
Originally Posted by npatro22 thanks glen | No problem. |
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14th October 2011
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#10 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2004 Location: Hamilton, On Canada
Posts: 4,445
| Quote:
Originally Posted by npatro22 Most pro studios have the bass traps hanging like paintings on the wall, isn't it better to have space in between the wall and the bass trap or will there be a huge difference? | The query does not make sense by itself. Bass traps can be solid backed or open backed with porous fronts or solid fronts.
It all depends on the specifics.
No insult intended to great GS friends who have tried answer your question without asking for necesary details and then working on their assumptions.
Andre
__________________ Good studio building is 90% design and 10% construction. |
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14th October 2011
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#11 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,264
| Quote:
Originally Posted by avare The query does not make sense by itself. Bass traps can be solid backed or open backed with porous fronts or solid fronts.
It all depends on the specifics.
No insult intended to great GS friends who have tried answer your question without asking for necesary details and then working on their assumptions.
Andre | Good point, my answer was based on open fronts and backs. Maybe I should not think that is a given anymore. |
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14th October 2011
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#12 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,269
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Einstein Man, Jens has a machine gun loaded with good links. I swear he has a program where every thread on this forum is organized into common topics. This way when someone asks a question he can just hit the button that applies to the topic and off they fire. | i did the same thing with my bookmarks last weekend, lol (4hours well spent)... for my own reference of some of the gems within this sub-forum, and also for quick links when someone else is in need of explanation. |
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16th October 2011
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#13 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 701
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When using rockwool, spacing them from the wall will give a better result,
Using proper solid membrane then efficiency will be highest close to the wall
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17th October 2011
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#14 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2004 Location: Hamilton, On Canada
Posts: 4,445
| Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyMac When using rockwool, spacing them from the wall will give a better result, | Correction. When using rockwool or moderal wool, the gas flow resistivity of the material should selected to give optimum absorption with the depth of the material AND the depth of the space behind the material being siginificant factors.
There is no cut and dry for all depths.
Andre
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17th October 2011
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#15 | | Gear nut
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 79
| Quote:
Originally Posted by avare Correction. When using rockwool or mineral wool, the gas flow resistivity of the material should selected to give optimum absorption with the depth of the material AND the depth of the space behind the material being significant factors.
There is no cut and dry for all depths. | Andre -- could you add a little detail to this, or confirm/edit my understanding?
- If you are using LOWER density material (i.e. Safe N Sound, 4-6 lb Roxul rockboard, OC703) for bass trapping purposes, then you can pack the corners -- as air is able to move through the lower density.
- If you are using HIGHER density material (i.e. 8 lb rockboard, OC705) for bass trapping purposes, then you are better off leaving an air chamber behind - so that air is not stopped, but can continue to move through.
- With broadband panels, you can greatly increase the effectiveness (including lower frequencies) by leaving an airgap up to equal the panel thickness (i.e. a 4" gap for 4" panels).
Please confirm or edit.
Craig
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18th October 2011
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#16 | | Gear maniac
Joined: Oct 2011 Location: Winterthur Switzerland
Posts: 283
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If we're speaking about absorber panels as opposed to actual tuned traps, then keep in mind that the absorbers work on the velocity component of the wave which is virtualy zero at the surface of the wall, so spacing away from the wall will afford greater efficiency. Theoretically 1/4 wavelength of the primary frequency being addressed would be the optimum distance (including the thickness of the panel), in practice however this is usually impractical.
__________________ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. |
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28th July 2012
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#17 | | Gear addict
Joined: Feb 2011 Location: St.Petersburg, Russia
Posts: 449
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Maybe a stupid question, but...
What is the best option for wall Rockwoll panels? - 5 cm depth & 5 cm distance from the wall
or - 10 cm depth & NO distance from the wall
__________________ iMac 20" (2006), Saffire USB 6, KRK RP5 2G, Axiom 49 MKII, Squier Affinity Strat Logic 9, Live 8 |
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28th July 2012
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#18 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2004 Location: Hamilton, On Canada
Posts: 4,445
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael E Maybe a stupid question, but...
What is the best option for wall Rockwoll panels? - 5 cm depth & 5 cm distance from the wall
or - 10 cm depth & NO distance from the wall
| It depends on the material. For 64 kg/m3 material, full is best. For denser material have the gap.
Andre
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25th August 2012
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#19 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
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Slightly related, hopefully Im contributing and not thread jacking.
What if I have plenty of 705 (or other porous absorber) and want to build a corner trap. Does the air gap help (straddle style) or can I go ahead and build a big FAT PILLAR in the corner with no air gap?
THANKS!!
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25th August 2012
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#20 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
| Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 Slightly related, hopefully Im contributing and not thread jacking.
What if I have plenty of 705 (or other porous absorber) and want to build a corner trap. Does the air gap help (straddle style) or can I go ahead and build a big FAT PILLAR in the corner with no air gap?
THANKS!! | The air gap helps but usually fully filled is better. Do you actually have 705 on hand? If not, I wouldn't suggest buying it - it is quite expensive and you would get better results with large square traps in the corners made of light, simple, cheap attic insulation.
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25th August 2012
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#21 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
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Yeah I have a great deal on 705...and access to pretty much an unlimited supply.
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26th August 2012
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#22 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,264
| Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 Yeah I have a great deal on 705...and access to pretty much an unlimited supply. | Since you are using 705, I would make the panel around 8" thick (2' face) and straddle the corner vs doing a pillar design. BTW if you do a pillar design you want to make it no less then 17" on the sides.
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26th August 2012
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#23 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras Since you are using 705, I would make the panel around 8" thick (2' face) and straddle the corner vs doing a pillar design. BTW if you do a pillar design you want to make it no less then 17" on the sides. | Thanks Glenn...another issue thats come up in another thread is that I have a superchunk in the opposing corner. This 705 trap would be behind my right monitor, I have an R30 chunk from ceiling to floor behind the left monitor.
U see any issues with this?
Also...I heard the size of the straddle trap and air gap helps with particular freqs whereas the pillar would be more broadband...agree?
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28th August 2012
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#24 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
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Also Glenn....the pillar was gonna be 12"x24"x8'....u say at least 17" so I would need to do 17"x24"x8'?
THANKS!!
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30th August 2012
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#25 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
| Quote:
Originally Posted by JLiRD808 Also Glenn....the pillar was gonna be 12"x24"x8'....u say at least 17" so I would need to do 17"x24"x8'?
THANKS!! | JLiRD,
A 17" square has double the amount of insulation than a 12" square. Does a 8" absorber work better than a 4" absorber? Yes.
You don't 'need' to make it any size, but if you want effectiveness and great low end absorption, bigger is better. 24" would be even better than that...assuming you could spare the space and material. (Of course, anything this large would be much more effective if built with very porous stuff - attic insulation - not 705 or the like).
I really think the OP should get some measurements up in here. All of our suggestions are based on speculation of what is typical in a room...if we knew what was going on in there currently from an actual tested acoustic standpoint...I think we'd all be able to help more.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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30th August 2012
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#26 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,264
| Quote: |
the pillar was gonna be 12"x24"x8'.
| I have never tried that size flat in the corner so no idea how well it would do. I would think pretty well over all.
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30th August 2012
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#27 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
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Picked up my stack of 705 yesterday....just gotta cut n wrap, probly this weekend.
Im thinking of just going as FAT as I can which would be pillar style...no air gap. 12"x24"x8'. If symmetry flies out the window I can just move it and do a superchunk.
I guess I can do that or a straddle strap...24" face and basically up to about 9" thick before it juts out too far and hits a nearby small bookcase. Again...back to air-gap vs pillar LOL.
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30th August 2012
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#28 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,257
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If you could find a GFR number for the 705 you could use absorption calculators to match the absorption as close as possible between the two traps. Just a thought.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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30th August 2012
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#29 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2004 Location: Hamilton, On Canada
Posts: 4,445
| Quote:
Originally Posted by kasmira If you could find a GFR number for the 705 you could use absorption calculators to match the absorption as close as possible between the two traps. Just a thought. | 30,000 Rayls. Ask and you shall receive!
With good resistance,
Andre
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30th August 2012
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#30 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Honolulu/Cincy
Posts: 1,264
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Hmmm...how do I do this? Where is the absorption calculator?
THANKS!
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