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Cinder block speaker stand questions

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Old 9th July 2011   #1
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Cinder block speaker stand questions

So I went and bought some cinder blocks today to replace my current speaker stands, which do not have nearly enough mass...well, they plainly have no mass. They suck. So, I have a couple of questions about cinder block stands. They are currently setting up in my garage. I bonded them together with Liquid Nails heavy duty.

After they set up, I'm going to spray paint them black, wrap them in burlap, liquid nail some oak to the bottom and top and that will be my stand. Until I can get some neoprene or sorbothane, I'm going to use mopads for decoupling from the stands. I'm also considering liquid nailing some stained boards up on them on the outside of the block instead of the burlap. Still thinking...

Questions:
1) Will using liquid nail create a decoupling between the blocks that would be undesirable?
2) Will using liquid nail to attach the wood to the cinder block create a decoupling from the mass that I don't want to happen??
3) On the bottom wood place, can I put rubber feet on it? Or would that be a no-no? I have "hand-scraped" wood flooring and it's a little uneven in some spots because of that so I'm worried about movement.

All of my questions really surround the use of liquid nail, I guess. I apologize in advance, this topic isn't my strong suite (none of them are) and I couldn't find anything in search that answered my questions.

(the top block in the picture is just for pressure)
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Cinder block speaker stand questions-stands_nailed.jpg   Cinder block speaker stand questions-liquid_nail.jpg  
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Old 10th July 2011   #2
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from my experience with liq nails, once that stuff dries it becomes a part of what ever it's glued to. it is not elastic at all. i don't think you have to worry about that. also, not all liq nails are the same. make sure you read the tube to make sure concrete and wood are among the materials that that particular variety is useable on.

if you feel you'll lose sleep over it, then just mix some mortar and mortar them together. won't be any decoupling there... monolithic.

an alternative to adhesive for the oak top and base is use Tapcons (countersunk, w/ wood filler).

btw, why are you going to spray paint the blocks if you're going to be covering them with fabric?

good luck.
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Old 10th July 2011   #3
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Quote:
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btw, why are you going to spray paint the blocks if you're going to be covering them with fabric?
So the block doesn't show through the fabric.
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Old 10th July 2011   #4
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Wel hey im only going to buy 2 off those blocks, rubber stand offs (for under the blocks). For the top i would leave it open....all speakers come with pads applied on it on the bottom so i think that with the bare brick under it will work great togheter.

BTW: I have been reading bout cinder blocks and monitor stands and it seems they boost dips in the very highs and Low end and flatten out the mids and highs a bit. Would that be becuz the monitors are being present on a stable underground ?, wich prevent ummmm(sorry for my noobish explantion) the speaker to rumble ?.
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Old 10th July 2011   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdupproductions View Post
........Would that be becuz the monitors are being present on a stable underground ?, wich prevent ummmm(sorry for my noobish explantion) the speaker to rumble ?.
All speakers vibrate forward/backward, because midwoofer/woofer cone movement.
Heavy stands and elastic mounts/pads have purpose to prevent vibration transition to floor and walls.

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Old 10th July 2011   #6
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So I think I've decided to actually liquid nail wood onto the outside of the cinder blocks. I'll cut it a bit short so it doesn't make contact with the top or bottom plate and then hide that with some wood trim that I cut at the top and bottom. There will be plenty of mass from the cinder blocks plus what extra mass the wood provides.

I guess my current outstanding question is, can I put rubber feet on the bottom of the bottom plate?
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