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Old 26th June 2011   #1
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Room Advice: Closing off Opening (Hallway / Stairs)

Post-Boggy Edit:

I've been reading the forums for a while and I feel like it's time to post!

So here is the deal. With my brother is moving out of our condo starting this August so I get to snag a room for my music stuff! I feel like the room size is pretty good, but I don't know anything so I need all the advice I can get.


Firstly, here are the room dimensions. The room is 22' Long, 10'7'' wide, with a ceiling height of 9'. The thing that worries me though is that the room is open on one side which leads to a staircase and a partition that divides the front door to this room. In order to close it up, I'm guessing it isn't as easy as dropping a heavy velvet curtain down is it? What would be the most cost effective way of closing it up (college student on a college budget :D)?

I really appreciate all the advice that floats around this forum and it really gives me a lot to do during work

Thanks!
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Last edited by touji; 27th June 2011 at 06:21 PM.. Reason: Information received, new questions!
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Old 26th June 2011   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touji View Post
............Would this be a problem for a control / live room?
.........
Yes, try to find a way to close that opening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by touji View Post
I was thinking about getting a pair of Yamaha HS-50M's, but apparently there are some things about monitor sizes relating to room size. Would 5'' monitors be too small for a room this size?
....
Use monitors that works well for you and give you an opportunity to get a better results... don't bother yourself with size of (mid)woofer... it's only story about max SPL...
Couple of years ago, in a room smaller than yours I design three way active loudspeakers with 12" long stroke (sub)woofers, that sounds exceptionally good, max undistorted (music, not only 1kHz) SPL can be about 115dB, even if they sounds beautiful, you can easily loose most of your hearing ability (without any pain)! . Also, I know people that works very well with (only) DIY 3"-4" full range driver based loudspeakers, even if they can't easily produce 84-85dB undistorted music SPL at 1m distance (each of channels)...

So... cone diameter of mid-woofer isn't that important... it's only matter how your loudspeakers works for you...

Hope this helps.

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Old 26th June 2011   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I suspected that the opening would prove to be a problem but I was hoping I could get away with leaving it open. In order to close it up, I'm guessing it isn't as easy as dropping a heavy velvet curtain down is it? What would be the most cost effective way of closing it up (college student on a college budget :D)? Again I appreciate all the help.

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Old 29th June 2011   #4
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I got your pm.

From looking at the drawing and pictures I would think the opening is not really a "problem" to say (maybe boggy could explain further) as I would set the mix spot facing the 10' wall which should give you nice symmetry and having the back open will help with the low end. If you seem to have a problem when recording in the back of the room then I would use movable panels. The only way though you are going to really know is to try it.
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Old 29th June 2011   #5
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...
From looking at the drawing and pictures I would think the opening is not really a "problem" to say (maybe boggy could explain further)....
I think about room symmetry.
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Old 29th June 2011   #6
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Quote:
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I think about room symmetry.
I see where you are coming from but if he can get good symmetry in the front of the room (10' wall) then it should be fine. Also considering he is a collage student, does not own the place and so on, putting up a few panels around that area (or heck just keeping it open) should work. There really is no "right" answer I guess.
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Old 29th June 2011   #7
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Quote:
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I see where you are coming from but if he can get good symmetry in the front of the room (10' wall) then it should be fine. Also considering he is a collage student, does not own the place and so on, putting up a few panels around that area (or heck just keeping it open) should work. There really is no "right" answer I guess.
Yes, you are probably right... but for other members, when (dominant) resonances from front of the room are "calmed down" (ok.. damped)... then others become audible if exist, like in this case, from other rooms. y
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Old 29th June 2011   #8
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Quote:
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Yes, you are probably right... but for other members, when (dominant) resonances from front of the room are "calmed down" (ok.. damped)... then others become audible if exist, like in this case, from other rooms. y
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Old 29th June 2011   #9
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Thanks for all the replies and discussion Once it's time to move in again, I guess I'll just have to give it a shot and try to make the best of what I'm given and hopefully the room won't be much trouble. Time to go pick up some mics and things to do some room readings
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