Control Room Speaker Wall - Right against cement wall or 3 feet space
djxchange
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#1
8th July 2010
Old 8th July 2010
  #1
Gear interested
 

Thread Starter
Control Room Speaker Wall - Right against cement wall or 3 feet space

I'm in the process of designing/building my new studio and I have a few options for the control room's main wall (the wall which the speakers will sit against). I've always hated the comb filtering I got from placing speakers right against an untreated concrete or drywall wall - so in my last setup I built a pair of 4inch thick Rockwool bass traps to place behind the speakers that significantly cut down my nasty comb filtered and smoothed out my low end.

Now in the new setup I have two walls to choose from for my back wall - One is right against the basement's concrete wall and just has a frame right now - so it could be stuffed with rockwool and burlap it off and then place the bass traps and studio desk with speakers. Option two is the way the basement is layed out there is a framed wall 3 feet out from the concrete foundation wall - so I could use this wall with rockwall and burlap it off and then place my bass traps (if even needed at this point) and studio desk and speakers.

The other option is do I drywall the backwall behind the speakers of the studio or just rockwool and burlap the 10 feet behind the desk? I don't want to go overboard and make the room sound too dead - but at the same time drywall has always been my enemy and I am usually trying to treat the outside of it - and now I have the freedom to either build it or not.

So its really 2 questions: 1) should I put drywall up on the wall behind my speakers and 2)is it better to have the speakers closer to the foundation concrete wall or have the 3 foot air gap from the "studio visible wall" to the foundation concrete wall.

Appreciate the help.

X-Change
#2
8th July 2010
Old 8th July 2010
  #2
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Glenn Kuras's Avatar
 

Quote:
So its really 2 questions: 1) should I put drywall up on the wall behind my speakers and 2)is it better to have the speakers closer to the foundation concrete wall or have the 3 foot air gap from the "studio visible wall" to the foundation concrete wall.
I would place the speakers away from the wall and not put drywall. Instead I would stuff the whole thing with fiberglass the cover it with fabric.
I would recommend you post some layouts of your room to make sure you are setting up correctly. There are many factors that you have to look at.
SAC
#3
8th July 2010
Old 8th July 2010
  #3
SAC
Registered User
 

(Let me preface this by saying that its hard to respond without paying wry homage to some of the all too common responses the other times such a topic has been posted! )

One question that comes to mind if one is designing a space - and is aware of the problems with speaker placement within the room, is - why don't you properly soffit/flush mount the speakers...as this is effectively the only mounting method to eliminate the problem with comb filtering (and it can also be used to good advantage in controlling early reflections as well)???

(And we won't even breach the lunacy of the VAST majority placing speakers on the work desk or bridge of said work desk, thus creating a significant source of problems, and then worrying about the ROOM issues!...nudge nudge- is this sufficient to get a few thinking about this?)

(I will post the link to the article showing tests of various speaker placements effects, just so everyone can again say they already know it - which begs the question of why the question is being asked to begin with...)

But since we aren't going that route, another fundamental question is: How were the speakers designed? (And how many ask and obtain 'hard' answers regarding this when they select a speaker?) Do they have a selectable LF 'emphasis'/shelving switch? Knowing this will have a significant impact on your options and subsequent choices.

Were they designed for anechoic free space mounting (as most specs reflect!!!), or a Q=2 mounting where thy sit on a surface (with no lateral boundaries), or Q=3 where they sit on a surface and against another (as is most common) - each of which will significantly change the reinforcement of the LF response?

Also, you might want to check out the Genelec learning & tutorial center for more details.

Without knowing how the speakers were designed (and if such placement was even considered in the response design), its rather difficult to select an optimum placement as we have no idea as to the fundamental response that we are modifying and, hence, the total results of any suggestion.

...then go back and review the article and the speaker mounting even with absorption (the solution!sic) compared with the free air response that most likely came with the speaker!

You are the right track asking such questions. You can pursue the smaller set of options, or, with just a small tweak to the option considerations, go a LONG way in addressing the issues you are smart to think about.
djxchange
Thread Starter
#4
8th July 2010
Old 8th July 2010
  #4
Gear interested
 

Thread Starter
@Glenn - Thanks for your thoughts - I was thinking that too - I've also attached a rough sketch of the basement space (along with the dang poles) and details - any more advice would be appreciated. I already plan on treating the ceiling with RealTraps - Ceiling Tiles and the floor will be padded/carpeted. So the only other early reflection issues would be from the desk (if i don't go soffit mounted - see below) and side walls...

@SAC - I guess I've never had the option of building a space, so I totally forgot about soffit/flush mounting the speakers. But I'm glad you reminded me now. The one thing I'm not sure with this technique though is the type of speaker needed. Right now I do the monitor bridge speakers (Gasp) cuz it's all I could do and I use Mackie HR824s and Yamaha HS10s - both near field monitors...for soffit mounting would I jus mount the HR824s or want to get different far-field monitors?

Also, I only have a 7 foot ceiling so I'm not sure how that will come into play with the soffit mounting...and I'm assuming I would want to contract a special builder to do that wall...

Thanks for the help guys!
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