Will the use of molding short out resilient channel??

This Is Poison · 4th May 2009

The walls in my drum booth are going to be hung on resilient channel, and I'm wondering if installing molding around the base of the floor/wall will "short out" the resilient channel. If I don't use molding, the room will obviously be less pleasing aesthetically. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance!

tarnationsauce · 4th May 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by This Is Poison

The walls in my drum booth are going to be hung on resilient channel, and I'm wondering if installing molding around the base of the floor/wall will "short out" the resilient channel. If I don't use molding, the room will obviously be less pleasing aesthetically. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance!

After you have hung the walls and have your flooring down, install your moldings but give them a gap off the floor. Use some shims or something to keep them from touching the floor. I would not do crown molding because that has to touch both the wall and ceiling.

This Is Poison · 5th May 2009

Hey tarnationsauce, thanks for the response! That almost made too much sense... hah. Sometimes I just think wayyy too into things.

chrisrnps · 18th June 2009

You could also use an elastomeric adhesive/sealant (like the oft-discussed Green Glue) to glue/caulk the moulding to the floor and wall surfaces (run one bead down the bottom 'floor' side and another down the 'wall' side) so that the moulding itself is 'floating'. No nails or screws since the moulding isn't 'structural' and is already supported by the floor.

There's also the inexpensive flexible rubber moulding kick-strips (often used as a cheap moulding in office buildings and other commercial / institutional interiors) which you could glue down with regular caulk-gun style construction adhesive. Less pretty than wood, though.

666666 · 19th June 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisrnps

You could also use an elastomeric adhesive/sealant (like the oft-discussed Green Glue) to glue/caulk the moulding to the floor and wall surfaces...

Don't use Green Glue for this, it does not "glue" on it's own, it's designed to be used between layers that get screwed together... and is not designed to be left exposed in any way like an acoustical sealant.... that's my take on it after working with it.

I'd say you could attach the base molding to the wall using a standard adhesive (like perhaps Liquid Nails or similar), making sure the molding does not touch the floor. Then in the space between the molding and floor, use an "acoustical sealant", the type that does not dry or harden, designed for this purpose (unlike Green Glue), etc.

I've never worked with an acoustic sealant personally. For many things, standard high-grade GE silicon caulking seems ok as it remains flexible / "rubbery" even once dry to the touch. I'm sure it conducts more than true acoustical sealant, but in a pinch, it's easy to obtain (at Home Depot), and there are advantages to having it dry and stick tight, depending on conditions.

I've had some situations where I wanted to seal not only for sound but for moisture, insects, air pressure, etc (like on a basement floor between finished and unfinished areas, etc), I don't know how acoustical sealant will stand up to standing water, pressure, dust, etc... maybe ok, but I know I'm safe with GE silicon in such instances... bonds super tight, holds well, resists water and dust etc, yet remains flexible.

The thicker the bead, the more flexible, so if you run a gap between the molding and floor of say 3/8" and run a nice bead of silicon in that gap (just enough to fill the gap), you'll have a considerably flexible yet very durable seal.

But if you have nothing else to seal out other than sound and want max performance, get "acoustical sealant".

Ted White · 23rd June 2009

Agree. Green Glue damps vibration, and therefore needs significant surface area to function. This is why Green Glue (and any other VE damping material) won't help if used on the edges of studs or joists; insufficient surface area.

Also, there are varying opinions regarding the attachment of the edges of a decoupled wall or ceiling. The technical answer is to leave a gap, fill with caulk. The practical answer is that this is still connecting the two surfaces and somewhat rigid. So why bother. Also this edge issue is less relevant as the panels get larger. So edge restraint on a small 3' x 3' panel is a bigger deal than on a full sized ceiling.

In my opinion, crown molding on wall / ceiling intersection is not going to practically affect anything.

4th May 2009	#1
This Is Poison Gear Head Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 70 Thread Starter	Will the use of molding short out resilient channel?? The walls in my drum booth are going to be hung on resilient channel, and I'm wondering if installing molding around the base of the floor/wall will "short out" the resilient channel. If I don't use molding, the room will obviously be less pleasing aesthetically. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance!

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5th May 2009	#3
This Is Poison Gear Head Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 70 Thread Starter	Hey tarnationsauce, thanks for the response! That almost made too much sense... hah. Sometimes I just think wayyy too into things.

18th June 2009	#4
chrisrnps Lives for gear Joined: Feb 2004 Location: Seattle Posts: 976	You could also use an elastomeric adhesive/sealant (like the oft-discussed Green Glue) to glue/caulk the moulding to the floor and wall surfaces (run one bead down the bottom 'floor' side and another down the 'wall' side) so that the moulding itself is 'floating'. No nails or screws since the moulding isn't 'structural' and is already supported by the floor. There's also the inexpensive flexible rubber moulding kick-strips (often used as a cheap moulding in office buildings and other commercial / institutional interiors) which you could glue down with regular caulk-gun style construction adhesive. Less pretty than wood, though.

23rd June 2009	#6
Ted White Gear addict Joined: Jun 2009 Location: Michigan, USA Posts: 301	Agree. Green Glue damps vibration, and therefore needs significant surface area to function. This is why Green Glue (and any other VE damping material) won't help if used on the edges of studs or joists; insufficient surface area. Also, there are varying opinions regarding the attachment of the edges of a decoupled wall or ceiling. The technical answer is to leave a gap, fill with caulk. The practical answer is that this is still connecting the two surfaces and somewhat rigid. So why bother. Also this edge issue is less relevant as the panels get larger. So edge restraint on a small 3' x 3' panel is a bigger deal than on a full sized ceiling. In my opinion, crown molding on wall / ceiling intersection is not going to practically affect anything.