email me and I will send you an unprotected spreadsheet....... you must have a lot of gear.
Another alternative is (of course) to just make the last line a general category - which has the total wattage of all the remaining gear.... the calculator doesn't know for single items versus group items.......
quite a few things yes....
thank you I am going to send you an email straight away!
Mattia.
Received your email and sent you the file - just be very careful that you don't modify any of the sensitive (calculation) fields - which is the real reason the files are generally sent out in protected form.....
Received your email and sent you the file - just be very careful that you don't modify any of the sensitive (calculation) fields - which is the real reason the files are generally sent out in protected form.....
good luck,
Rod
thank you for this.
I look forward to receive the reply to my other question.
Much appreciated.
Regarding doors in a small rehearsal space, instead of using two fire doors in a double door assembly would it be possible to maintain good sound isolation by using two triple glazed upvc doors? I only thought this as it would be really great to let some light into the room!
I am not crazy about hollow (or even insulated) plastic frames for isolation - I have successfully used isolated wood frame sliders - doubled - for isolation between spaces.
Hi Rod, first off I just want to thank you for the wonderful resource you've provided all of us DIYers...I would not be nearly as far along in the design process without the help of your book.
I do have one question for you that I ran into while designing/learning to design your "superdoor". My studio has not been built yet (my design thread is here) so I am trying to nail down all of the details in Sketchup before we even THINK about building. Trying to do this right the first time!
My question is whether or not it is crucial to decouple the door jamb from the double wall assembly in order to avoid creating a flanking path between the two frames. On page 104 (2nd edition) you state:
"I'll let you know right now that this is one place I don't worry about maintaing the separation of wall assemblies with the frames, even when using totally separated assemblies. When it comes to carrying a door that might weigh well over 300 pounds, or even standard solid-core doors, you do not want your door frame attached to a stud that can move over the years. As I noted previously, tests have proven that a through jamb does not effectively lessen the total isolation value of a wall assembly to any great degree. So don't worry about any minuscule amount of isolations you may lose. Just build the frame straight through the cavity."
This led me to believe it would be okay to just attach the jamb directly into the studs of the double walls without having to worry about the issue of flanking.
However, on page 106 and 107 you provide diagrams for the superdoor and double door, both of which specifically show compressed rockwool, backer rod, and acoustic caulk between the 5/4 stock wood jamb and isolated wall assembly. I would assume this is for the purpose of decoupling?
So, my confusion led to posting on my own thread where I was then guided to post the issue here since you could clarify this better than anyone. It is a dilemma that has caused several threads worth of contemplation and varying opinions over on the johnlsayers forum. I made sure to read through this entire thread before posting this question. I have yet to find a concrete answer.
The detail I use depends a lot on the wall framing involved.....
At Power Station NE the doors have through jambs - and the isolation levels are just fine....
When I have beefier walls - picture 2x6 framing - with structural interior sheathing - I have no issues with a single wall carrying the load - always use a double stud and single jack on the hinge side of the door - in which case I split the jamb.
If the wall is 2x4 framing - I would never support on one wall side - and would use a through jamb.
Thanks for such a quick reply Rod! That helps immensely...
I will be constructing my walls using 2x6 studs, so if I incorporate sheathing, we should be able to avoid the through jamb and just attach directly to one wall frame (as you stated). Of course making sure to double up the standard amount of studs around the frame.
As has already been echoed throughout this forum, thank you for such a great book and your contributions here.
We are about to convert a garage into a studio in the UK for making electronic dance music (Techno, House etc) with no requirements for recording instruments. The bass from this style of music is obviously pretty low and loud.
The garage is detached from our and our neighbours properties although it is within meters of their gardens and around 8 meters from their houses. The noise pollution limit in the UK is 37db and ideally we would be able to mix music at around 80db. I think if we can get around 40db of sound insulation we should be fine.
Due to the position of the garage we are going to struggle to add windows but I am keen to capture some natural light and have been looking at Solatube units for the roof, 2 of the 375mm units to be precise. I have attached the acoustic data from their lab tests.
Having read your book several times I am aware that every wall, door, ceiling component should be as strong in sound reduction as the weakest link in the build. If the Solatube units are to be the weakest link with an RW of 43db what would be the best way to treat the roof?
We are adding a new roof and typically these are built from chip board with some kind of felt weather proofing. I was hoping to follow the detail on pages 76-79 ie add some layers of Gypsum 15mm Soundbloc dry wall between the joists, fill the cavity with fibre glass and then add more Soundbloc on the underside of the joists (ie this will most likely be plastered and painted as a finish).
Should we use something other than chip board for the roof?, How many layers of Soundbloc or Drywall or Green Glue etc should we use?
Thank you in advance for any help.
(not sure why the current garage roof picture has uploaded upside down... that's life :-)
Thanks for coming back so quickly. I chased the company and they said that there is confidential information in the report but they welcomed any specific questions that I may have.
I'm not sure what to ask them, any guidance would be gratefully received.
Tell them you want to see the results of the specific isolation levels for each of the frequencies tested in the lab..........
The statement that the report contains confidential information and therefor they won't release it makes me suspicious - anyone could purchase one of these and reverse engineer it. The information contained in a report is the product - the method of installation in the lab - and the levels of isolation - nothing is ever included relating to how the product is manufactured because it has nothing to do with the level of isolation it provides.....
I am always wary of companies that play this game.......
If I can't see the entire report - how do I know if the information they provide me is an accurate representation of what was contained in the report.......
For those who may think that we can just "trust them" to be honest - we owe them no more trust then they offer to us.....
Hey, I just picked up the 2nd edition! My 1st edition was getting kind of beat up.
Will a dog-eared copy of the 1st edition placed behind the engineer's seat provide thoughtful diffusion?
Sure - however the book has to be placed on edge with the binder facing the back of the room - and you have to do a math calc so you can determine the sequence for page depth...... you could always fold the pages - but I recommend cutting them to size once the sequence has been established......
Looking at my original question above, if we use 18mm Shutter Plywood for the roof with an EPDM covering... Using the detail on p76-79 will it be necessary to add 15mm drywall to the underside of the ply, layer of fibre glass, internal layer of 15mm drywall and then plaster finish. Or will I need more or less material (drywall, green glue etc) to equal the figures given for the sound isolation of the Solatube?
Hello Rod,
I have question regarding the low cost decoupling floor depicted in chapter 10 of your book. In the illustration, It seems like there is no framing amongst the glass fiber to support the staggered floor boards.
My question is, Will the fiberglass compress and decompress given load on and off the floorboard? If so, How do I establish a seal between the walls and the floor?
Hello Rod,
I have question regarding the low cost decoupling floor depicted in chapter 10 of your book. In the illustration, It seems like there is no framing amongst the glass fiber to support the staggered floor boards.
This is correct.....
Quote:
My question is, Will the fiberglass compress and decompress given load on and off the floorboard?
Sure it will........ any floor system flex under live loads and return to their natural condition after the loads are removed.......
If this system was not capable of that it would be so rigid that it would not serve the purpose it is designed for.
Quote:
If so, How do I establish a seal between the walls and the floor?
you can provide backer rod and caulk at the edge between the wall panels and decking - caulk product with excellent elasticity (like Big Stretch) are perfect for conditions where there is a possibility of large movement over time.
But - reality is that there is not going to be a whole lot of movement right at the joint between the wall and the floor - people don't tend to walk along the perimeter of a room, and flex away from the wall will not transfer all that far from the point of the flex.
This is not as if this material is making huge deflections under normal loads - if it did that then again it would not work as designed.
Looking at my original question above, if we use 18mm Shutter Plywood for the roof with an EPDM covering... Using the detail on p76-79 will it be necessary to add 15mm drywall to the underside of the ply, layer of fibre glass, internal layer of 15mm drywall and then plaster finish. Or will I need more or less material (drywall, green glue etc) to equal the figures given for the sound isolation of the Solatube?
Please provide a sketch of exactly what you have in mind.........
you can provide backer rod and caulk at the edge between the wall panels and decking - caulk product with excellent elasticity (like Big Stretch) are perfect for conditions where there is a possibility of large movement over time.
But - reality is that there is not going to be a whole lot of movement right at the joint between the wall and the floor - people don't tend to walk along the perimeter of a room, and flex away from the wall will not transfer all that far from the point of the flex.
This is not as if this material is making huge deflections under normal loads - if it did that then again it would not work as designed.
Rod
Rod
Thank you, sir, for responding.
I happen to be working in a country where products such as elastic caulk are difficult to come by.
and in my particular case, people do occasionally walk about the perimeter of the room. It is a drum teaching room. many of our teaching drumsets will take over the bulk of the room. while students walk about, eithe to or from their drumset, It is likely that they will be walking along the perimeter of the room. So... the edge of the floor system will mostly likely flex as any other part of the room. My follow up question is, given my current situation, do you see any potential problem if I leave the floor system uncaulked?
in case you would ask about the walls, I intend to build the room with the 2 leaf system you mentioned in your book. I have posted some details here. Building a drum room for a music school
Now, I intend to build brick walls from floors to ceiling all the way. so when fully built, the room is airtight. inside the brick walls, I intend to build drywall system as the inner leaf, whith glass fiber as isolation. So, return to the topic of caulking the floor, If it were to be done, it would be between the floor system and the inner drywalls.
When I refer to bearing on the edge I refer to a bunch of people backed up against the wall....
People traversing the perimeter of a room will typically be roughly 1 1/2 feet off the wall to the center of their bodies....... You should be fine.......
I would not probably bother caulking the perimeter with the construction like describe.
I've seen lots of nibbles at the answer to a question I have but no definitive answer (probably because there isn't a definitive one) so I'll go ahead and try for one here:
Your book deals mostly with adding mass to existing interior wall/ceiling structures. My question is regarding adding mass in the form of drywall to an exterior wall. I live in Seattle and understand the importance of having a vapor barrier behind the drywall on the inner framing of a decoupled wall given my climate. I am still concerned with potential condensation/mold issues in the outer wall structure with drywall placed directly against the inside face of the outer sheathing (1/2" T111 in my case). Builders I've talked to say never use drywall on anything that functions as part of an exterior wall and then suggest OSB. I'd rather use drywall all things being equal for the obvious reason of cost. What are your thoughts in this?
Thanks so much for your excellent, invaluable book and your reply,
The inside cavity of an exterior wall is going to breathe one of 2 ways depending on where you live and the code requirements in your locale.
In areas that will experience cold climates we put vapor "barriers" on the inside face of the wall to stop the passage of warm vapor on the inside of the building from traveling to the colder outside face - which in colder months will create issues with condensation on the inside face of that colder surface.
IN areas where they have predominately hot climates - we put them behind the sheathing at the exterior face of framing to stop the warm moist air outside of the building from experiencing the same issues on the colder inside face of the drywall.
In either case - the inside of the wall cavity has the same relative humidity as the side without the vapor barrier - and condensation inside of the cavity is not an issue.
If the drywall was moisture resistant I would have a concern because this material is made to create a barrier from the passage of moisture - however - standard drywall has no such properties - and as such I have no concern with it's location as indicated in the wall cavity.
I would point out that the builders you have been speaking with are wrong headed about this......
Mold will form on any surface - including plywood, the OSB they are suggesting you use in lieu of drywall, within insulation,framing, etc. given the right circumstances. I've even seen mold form on ceramic tiles......
The formation of mold has everything to do with either improper construction techniques - or a leak entering a building from problems related to damage to outside seals/flashing.
It has nothing whatsoever to do with the materials involved in the buildings construction.
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