What kind of wood in my studio????

[HAWG_TRAIN]

Anyone know what kind of wood this is?? this is the floor....Im thinking Pine, not sure...
i have more pics, but they are too big for gearslutz, how do others get there photobucket pics to appear on the thread... thanks


http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00573.jpg

[HAWG_TRAIN]

here is some pictures of the studio, thanks

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00572.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00489.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00494.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00488.jpg

[HAWG_TRAIN]

[CaptCrunch]

Originally Posted by HAWG_TRAIN

Anyone know what kind of wood this is?? this is the floor....Im thinking Pine, not sure...
i have more pics, but they are too big for gearslutz, how do others get there photobucket pics to appear on the thread... thanks


http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8/DSC00573.jpg

Everything above the floor line is pine, the floor itself looks like either cherry or mahogany. The floor is a bit dirty to see graining in the wood.

Edit: On second glance, I think the floor is pine after all.

[Rick Sutton]

Agree with captcrunch with the exception that the wood on the wall inside the control room looks like oak to me.

[deda]

The floor looks like pine to me for sure, very old pine that should be beautiful cleaned up.It will be almost impossible to match due to the patina of the wood/varnish if you are adding on to existing floor. Trying to match by staining is ones first thought but raw pine stains horribly, the difference in the density of the pine in just one board leaves most stains penetrating in a splotchy way that is not very attractive. There are some tricks like sealing the floor prior to staining to minimize the variations but I've seen alot of attempts to match old pine floors but never one I would consider a success. You may not be looking for that type of info but I thought I'd throw it out there for you for future referance. Like I said it looks like pine and should clean up great. Don't let anyone even think about refinishing it with any technique because you would loose that beautiful patina, it would be like refinishing a Prewar Martin guitar, a no no.

The wall wood looks to be cedar and should also cleanup nicely. It looks as if you have some great wood that just needs cleaning to set off your studio architecturally, now you can spend your time dealing with the acoustics if you have all woodwalls and floors, good luck regards ,,deda,

Addendum: Saw the other pictures after I posted but I think I'm right on this, floors pine, outside walls cedar, control room walls oak, regards ,,deda,,

[HAWG_TRAIN]

thanks guys..... i just bought this studio, last thursday, and wasnt sure...

so is pine and cedar good for a live room?????? Ive never seen that before. wonder what the best way to clean up the floor and walls would be??? thanks again

[deda]

Yes, pine and cedar are good for a live room. The main reason is thats what you got and some wood I believe is always a positive in a recording environment, both in the live room and the control room. LET ME BE CLEAR I am in no way an acoustics expert or to put it another way I am not a Amatuer Acoustics person either, thats like saying your a Amatuer Brain Surgeon. But, I do study every room I'm in, every room I see on line and every room I see in the books and magazines I collect and they all have some wood, floors, walls and some ceilings. Wood adds MOJO to everything from aesthetics, which you've got, reflections, which need controling and vibrations, think 1934 Gibson Roy Smeck Stage DeLuxe.
The oak in the control room is much denser than the cedar and pine in the live room but I don't think wood density has too much affect on reflections, but I may be wrong on that. Wood density has all the mojo in vibrations but I'm stating the obvious so I'll move on to cleaning.
On the pine floors, as on my maple floors, I've found the best cleaner to be Mop & Glow and believe it or not, the plain one, not the one for wood floors which is available. I don't know why but it just works better. Then use Minwax Paste Finishing Wax, just follow directions and don't over do it meaning more doesn't mean better you'll just create more work and waste the wax and dollars by having to wipe up the excess. This is elbow grease time but worth the effort.
Murphys Oil or Old English Lemon Oil for the oak in the control room, just treat it as you would furniture, follow directions and you should be pleased with the outcome.
Now we come to the cedar in the live room there are 2 jpegs that appear to have different finishes. The jpeg 572 seems to be cedar with a glossy finish on it. The jpeg 469 above the control room window looks as if it does not have a finish on it, although in jpeg 488 it looks as 572 does with a glossy finish on it. If it does all have a glossy sealed finish on it just treat it as you would the oak, Murphys Oil or Old English Lemon Oil. If it does not have a finish it should feel dry with a rough almost sandpaper feel to it and if this is the case just use your vacuum with a upholstery brush and clean it that way because if you put a oilbased or other penetrating type finish on it, if its raw wood, you might create a mess you might not like.
One thing for sure it appears you got a lot of good things going for you with the photos shown and with some Professional acoustic guidance you should have a great place to track, mix or master. When you get into dealing with the absorption, reflection, diffraction, refraction, diffusion and the many other issues surrounding acoustics in a closed environment be sure to think of your old friend wood again because Helmholtz resonators, diffusors, absorbers, etc are easily made from wood and other available products and look, work, cost less, look better and most of the time work better than alot of exspensive purple foam products that are on the market. Very best of luck, regards ,,deda,,

[HAWG_TRAIN]

great answer. thanks alot!!!!!