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ZED r16 major issues!!
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socaldirtgods
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#1
23rd September 2011
Old 23rd September 2011
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ZED r16 major issues!!

I bought my ZED r16 a year ago and everything has worked fine until today. I cannot get my Mac Book Pro running Snow Leopard to Recognize the device. Also the AFL/PFL button indicator stopped working, and so did the Meters!!

Does anyone have a similar issue? The overall sound is crackly, can't recognize the device on both my PCs and my mac. No indicator lights everything went dim - even the meters dont recognize any sound passing through, but the sound still works.

This thing is hunk of junk dude - NEVER BUY ONE!!!

I'm so upset please help me someone.
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#2
29th January 2013
Old 29th January 2013
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ZED r16 major issues!!

Hi, have you found a solution already, cause it looks like I have the same problem... :(
#3
30th January 2013
Old 30th January 2013
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Same type of problem developed here after about a year and a half...never got resolved and I sold it taking a big hit in the process.
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#4
30th January 2013
Old 30th January 2013
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Ahhhh man. I was thinking of getting one of these at some point. Yikes.

I hope you guys get some good news that its an easy fix or something.
#5
30th January 2013
Old 30th January 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianellefson View Post
Ahhhh man. I was thinking of getting one of these at some point. Yikes.

I hope you guys get some good news that its an easy fix or something.

Dude check the reviews everywhere. It has quiet pres with excellent EQs. It gets nothing but praise. Those who bash this desk, unfortunately got a lemon and that is unfortunate, but unless the craftsmanship at A&H has gone to sh*t, the Zed is a nice little desk and does what it's supposed to do.
#6
30th January 2013
Old 30th January 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevBonds View Post
Dude check the reviews everywhere. It has quiet pres with excellent EQs. It gets nothing but praise. Those who bash this desk, unfortunately got a lemon and that is unfortunate, but unless the craftsmanship at A&H has gone to sh*t, the Zed is a nice little desk and does what it's supposed to do.
I sang its praises and still do to be honest. Good pres, fantastic EQ's and converters that are also nice. Mine just kind of took a dump. Was mine a lemon and almost everyone else's is fine? Quite possibly! I did buy one of the early ones and I wouldn't be surprised if newer batches sorted some things out.
#7
30th January 2013
Old 30th January 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendyamps View Post
I sang its praises and still do to be honest. Good pres, fantastic EQ's and converters that are also nice. Mine just kind of took a dump. Was mine a lemon and almost everyone else's is fine? Quite possibly! I did buy one of the early ones and I wouldn't be surprised if newer batches sorted some things out.
Sounds like your best bet is to contact your local allen and heath
Support center, trip to a tech may be in order
#8
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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ZED r16 major issues!!

Fine, hardware units break down over time, but this specific problem shouldn't be an electrician enigma. Especially because it all happened suddenly (meaning that it's a typical electronic failure). Suddenly I couldn't get my PC (Windows 7) to recognize the device. Also some of the button indicators (such as the AFL/PFL button indicator) stopped working, firewire connection is not working anymore and everything went dim - even the meters don't recognize any sound passing through, but the "onboard" sound still works (I think so, because the microphone I have plugged into the channel 1 of the console is getting sound of the recording room). Every led lights are dimmed, it looks like somebody just turned down their brightnes to 1%.


I called the maintanance service and they told me that this specific problem is pretty common in many countries even though in poland they solved 1 such issue in the last 5 years (probably due to fact that not everybody can afford it). However, they told me that it can be a simple issue to solve "by taking something out of the motherboard of the console" - and then they won't charge me for that, OR it can be a major problem with an internal power supply - and in this case they need to send the console to the US for reparing purposes from where they'll order the necessary parts from the UK factory and it could take about a month or more to do so and THEN they'll send it repaired to Poland from where I can pick it up...

The money isn't really a huge problem. The only problem is I got a lot of projects already opened and I can't wait so long. If there could be someway I could open the console's case and figure out "what to take out from there" to make it work myself I'll be saved.

So maybe there's someone on this forum who's profession is connected somehow with an electric stuff, can you please help us fixing this issue? Maybe you'll know better what's going on.
#9
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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I've had a zedr16 for almost two years now and really enjoy the clean sound of the board. The other day, however, I noticed my 2-track input started to sound crackly and distorted at times. The next day, all of the meters stopped working. I brought it to my tech, who wasn't even able to pass audio through the board at that point. We opened it up and the problem was with some capacitors, I believe, in the power supply section of the board. You could see that the caps were "vented," so he replaced them with a better spec'd part and the board is working as good as new. I really love this piece and don't think there is a better deal for the money, or anything even close... $100 to fix, not a big deal, for me anyway...
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#10
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liammanthis View Post
Fine, hardware units break down over time, but this specific problem shouldn't be an electrician enigma. Especially because it all happened suddenly (meaning that it's a typical electronic failure). Suddenly I couldn't get my PC (Windows 7) to recognize the device. Also some of the button indicators (such as the AFL/PFL button indicator) stopped working, firewire connection is not working anymore and everything went dim - even the meters don't recognize any sound passing through, but the "onboard" sound still works (I think so, because the microphone I have plugged into the channel 1 of the console is getting sound of the recording room). Every led lights are dimmed, it looks like somebody just turned down their brightnes to 1%.


I called the maintanance service and they told me that this specific problem is pretty common in many countries even though in poland they solved 1 such issue in the last 5 years (probably due to fact that not everybody can afford it). However, they told me that it can be a simple issue to solve "by taking something out of the motherboard of the console" - and then they won't charge me for that, OR it can be a major problem with an internal power supply - and in this case they need to send the console to the US for reparing purposes from where they'll order the necessary parts from the UK factory and it could take about a month or more to do so and THEN they'll send it repaired to Poland from where I can pick it up...

The money isn't really a huge problem. The only problem is I got a lot of projects already opened and I can't wait so long. If there could be someway I could open the console's case and figure out "what to take out from there" to make it work myself I'll be saved.

So maybe there's someone on this forum who's profession is connected somehow with an electric stuff, can you please help us fixing this issue? Maybe you'll know better what's going on.
Probably some problem with the power supply. I guess you need some capacitors replaced. I d say get a local tech to fix it. Any decent electronics tech can replace a few caps in a power supply. Find something to replace it with till he fixes it. Not worth the trouble of sending it to the US. Too costly and will probably take too long.
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1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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It took my tech one day and $100 to fix, and he mentioned that he loves working on Allen and heath mixers because the layout is so clean and easy to repair. Mine was no longer under warranty, but getting it back in a matter of days was worth $100 regardless.
#12
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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If you want to open the board just remove the bottom panel. I believe that most of the PSU is on a horizontal panel at the top of the mixer. In my case you could clearly see the capacitors with "vented" tops that needed to be replaced, but I didn't want to do it myself.
#13
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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I had caps go out on the power supply too- no meters, no sound except for PFL, if I remember correctly. They must have gotten a bad batch of caps. Mines an earlier board
#14
1st February 2013
Old 1st February 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianellefson View Post
Ahhhh man. I was thinking of getting one of these at some point. Yikes.

I hope you guys get some good news that its an easy fix or something.
I've had the ZEDR16 for a few years and has never skipped a beat!
There are thousands of happy users posting in the many threads here also with no problems and from the description of the OP looks like his/her unit has a PSU problem which has been reported on a minority of units over the years it's been out.
Like over-man responded...it happens and is an easy cap repair.
It's one of the most common faults on any HW device.
Funny how people rely on a few posts with isolated complaints and then conclude it's a bad unit....LOL
Typical forum mentality...
#15
2nd February 2013
Old 2nd February 2013
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Yeah mine was a minor fix and I love my Zed. I remember when I was building PCs for a living in the early 2000s there was a huge batch of defective capacitors that came out of Korea(?) and all sorts of motherboards and video cards were dying left and right. I certainly don't blame A&H for it.
#16
2nd February 2013
Old 2nd February 2013
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FWIW i had 3 different R-16's and all worked fine.Even had 2 of em linked together for awhile.
3 seperate computers over the course and no firewire issues either.
#17
3rd February 2013
Old 3rd February 2013
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Good to know, can you please tell me what exactly kind of capacitors are need to be replaced? I mean what voltage, etc? Everything I need to tell the electrician throught the phone who'll be on the stock exchange?
#18
3rd February 2013
Old 3rd February 2013
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I noticed that 2 capacitors on the PSU board, "SAMXON 470uf/25v" green and black one w the the same values are convex a little bit. Is there a difference between green and black one since they have the same values printed? Any replacement recommended maybe with higher quality? Can I replace it with "EKM Roederstein 470µF/25V Audio Gold ROE 9805" or with "470UF/25V PANASONIC FC"????

I'm not an electrician so if I'm not bothering you, please help me figuring it all out.
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3rd February 2013
Old 3rd February 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liammanthis View Post
I noticed that 2 capacitors on the PSU board, "SAMXON 470uf/25v" green and black one w the the same values are convex a little bit. Is there a difference between green and black one since they have the same values printed? Any replacement recommended maybe with higher quality? Can I replace it with "EKM Roederstein 470µF/25V Audio Gold ROE 9805" or with "470UF/25V PANASONIC FC"????

I'm not an electrician so if I'm not bothering you, please help me figuring it all out.
To answer your question....the black ones are GT series and the green ones are GF series.
Both are low impedance, high ripple current, 105degree.
The difference is the GT is longer life and high frequency use. So A&H probably used the different parts for a reason in the circuit and the GT is in a location that requires better high frequency filtering or specs....that's just a guess though as there is no schematic to look at.
I believe the Panasonic FC would work for either though.
The specs of the caps you get should be equivalent or better.
Voltage can be one level (35V over 25V) above the rated but never below (no 16V).

Now....are you sure that is the problem?
You really should have a tech who is familiar with mixers and audio equipment test and check it first.
Any good tech should have no problem finding the problem.
If you are attempting to do this yourself, I would check the PSU with a volt meter and scope first and verify the PSU is not producing the correct voltages to the mixer. Unfortunately you don't have a service manual or schematic so that will be hard to do without some technical knowledge.
At this point you really have no idea what has failed.

If you actually determine it is the PSU, you can get a replacement PSU board from A&H.
It's not automatically the caps in the PSU either....there may be other things like regulators that have failed. It could be anything. You can't assume much from your description or reports on a forum.
If you want to take a chance and replace the caps that's your choice and you might get lucky, but don't be surprised if something else doesn't work or you create more smoke and damage!
#20
4th February 2013
Old 4th February 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liammanthis View Post
I noticed that 2 capacitors on the PSU board, "SAMXON 470uf/25v" green and black one w the the same values are convex a little bit. Is there a difference between green and black one since they have the same values printed? Any replacement recommended maybe with higher quality? Can I replace it with "EKM Roederstein 470µF/25V Audio Gold ROE 9805" or with "470UF/25V PANASONIC FC"????

I'm not an electrician so if I'm not bothering you, please help me figuring it all out.
According to this link (I made a search because dodgy electrolytics are sadly a frequent cause for failures) it's better to avoid Samxon and find Panasonic or Rubycon (beware, NOT ruLycon) instead. Samxon have a bad reputation.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/project...bad-caps'/

If this is true, someone should slap A&H hard.
#21
5th February 2013
Old 5th February 2013
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Hi, today I called an alternative electrician (not connected with A&H, or even not connected with any audio equipment!) who arrived an hour later. He unscrewed the down panel of the console and fastly determined thet it was a pretty simple issue. 3 caps were burned on the PSU board. There was a specific "black-brown streak" on the radiator panel suggesting that something was "on fire". He simply unsoldered and replaced the components using the new caps I bought earlier (SINECON 470uF/25V) and everything returned to the "factory state". Everything works at it's new straight from the line.

So I wanna say thank you to all of you guys for helping me out and keeping my mind in lower stress.
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