![]() | All Advertisers |
| Member Services Directory | Classifieds | Reviews | Jobs | Deal Zone | Merchandise | Marketplace | Facebook App | Books, DVDs & Gadgets | Video Vault | Tips & Techniques |
| |||||||
New Reply | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #31 | |
| Gear Head Joined: Apr 2005 Location: Black river falls, WI
Posts: 58
| Quote:
__________________ That is not dead which can not die and with strange eons even death may die....H.P. Lovecraft | |
| | |
| | #32 |
| Gear maniac |
+3dB 63Hz on an API 560
|
| | |
| | #33 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1,138
| Quote:
I'm not sure why that wasn't the first response. But hey, better late than never. I hear a lot of talk about tuning, heads, miking, etc. That stuff's all good. But I have to say that the physical part of the setup that makes the biggest difference is the pedal. Someone mentioned DW pedals. Those are great. The beater is important too. Probably more important than the heads and tuning. As for miking, I'm with the "2 mic" crowd. There is no other way to get a big thunderous "boom" out of a kick unless or course, you get really lucky. I like the NS-10 trick, or a 414, 4033, U87, etc. eqed down to nothing but subs and then eq the inside mic (RE20, D112, SM7, 57, 58, whatever) so that they don't have much of a phase relationship. Meaning, nothing but attack. The eqing must be done while listening to both, though. Let the outside be the low end, and let the inside be the attack. I've never been happier with my kick tones since I learned this from a friend of mine.
__________________ If you don't spank it, you can't crank it! | |
| | |
| | #34 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1,138
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #35 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2005 Location: LA
Posts: 558
|
I use a 421 inside in the middle of the drum combined with a home-made subkick mic, like the NS10 thing, about 7 inches away on the outside head. Like absrec said, I filter any highs out of the sub kick mic so it's attack doesn't get phasey with the 421. Eq the 421 a bit with some 4k, I blend the sub kick in to taste for the lows. Get the click and mids from the inside mic and the lows from the outside mic. I think this is generally agreed upon by many here. This has been working great for a wide variety of music in my studio. I am not a big fan lf the d112 and d6 thing. Not much body in that sound to me, too scooped. I have a d6 but hardly ever use it.
__________________ Sean Ingoldsby Real Time Studios Ojai, California http://homepage.mac.com/seaningo/ "Dung beetles with ostentatious horns tend to have smaller testicles" source unknown, as read in Harpers Findings, Dec. 2006. |
| | |
| | #36 |
| Gear nut Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 110
|
If you aren't already using the 441 on the snare, definitely try sticking it inside the kick. I've never had one available to do it during a session, but in playing around with sounds very few mics were able to represent as many of a kick's characteristics as well as a 441 by itself. Plenty of attack and thump to go around.
|
| | |
| | #37 |
| Gear addict | works for me.. after the recording stage... I usually go 50 or 60 Hz. play with the attack and release to get a more natural sound. I usually use slower attacks with digital tone generators to take away the click
|
| | |
| | #38 |
| Gear addict Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 485
|
As a point of reference, I have a 20" Ayotte kick with Superkick II on the batter side and with the front of my D6 about an inch inside the hole, I get a huge low end boomy sound with just the right amount of attack. I always hear people say that the D6 "can only get that clicky metal sound", but I think it's all about placement. That particular mic, in my opinion, doesn't like to be too far inside the drum. I get the best sounds with it just inside or just outside the hole. In fact, the other day I wanted some more click and just got a really fat (nice) boomy sound. I personally love that mic, and I don't like clicky kicks. |
| | |
| | #39 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Oct 2005 Location: Weymouth, MA U.S.A.
Posts: 1,234
|
this is easy. get a early 70's ludwig kit with a 26" kick. make sure it's tuned right and have John Bonham play the parts for you. you may not get the low end you're looking for but but you will no longer need/want it. good luck. -Jeff
__________________ www.sonicdisorder.com “One of the 10 best independent albums of 2008” -The Noise www.sonicdisorderrecording.com |
| | |
| | #40 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,192
|
I'm surprised no one's mentioned a Sennheiser e602 for mic choice. Huge low end from this mic, not flabby either. Of course, a 26" kick will definitely help too. |
| | |
| | #41 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Oct 2006 Location: istanbul TR
Posts: 766
|
Before you do anything, place the bass drum on a solid surface. If you have an air cavity under your timber, make a solid riser for drums. It hugely effects the character of the bass response
|
| | |
| | #42 | |
| Lives for gear | Quote:
As far as the D6 goes is you pull it out of the kick and have it outside the hole. You will have quite a bit of low end . Since Audix took all the mids out you might want to put some back. For a while now I've been using a D6 in the drum and a Soundelux U195 out of the drum
__________________ Lou Gimenez www.musiclabnyc.com | |
| | |
| | #43 |
| Gear interested Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
| BOOM! |
| | |
| | #44 |
| Gear addict Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 370
| |
| | |
| | #45 |
| Gear addict Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 485
| |
| | |
| | #46 |
| Gear maniac Joined: Feb 2008 Location: NYC
Posts: 197
|
The basketball effect usually happens when: 1. the kick drum is made out of "cheap" wood (such as Mahogany) and the shell is very thick (and won't resonate much) 2. the kick drum has toms mounted on top of them 3. the drum is tuned too high, and there is nothing inside the drum to break up the waves that bounce back and forth between the two heads and around the shell. The Bonham method works great to get rid of the basketball effect, too: cut a newspaper into strips (of about 2"x12"). Put these inside the (otherwise empty) kick drum. The strips will bounce up on every kick hit, and break up some of the "bad" waves. I'm not a fan of pillows, as they take away too many of the frequencies you do want to capture. I myself use a beach towel that I don't fold up nicely, but just toss inside. The messy texture breaks up the "bad" waves enough, but there's not too much sitting inside the drum to kill the sustain and low end rumble that I like to have. Evans EMAD is definitely the best recording head on the market. Can't go wrong with a D6 either. If you can't get a kick drum to sound fat with a D6, there's something weird going on with your drum. Keep in mind, though, that a cheap drum is cheap for a reason. Better (more expensive) wood = better sound qualities. I played/tried many sorts of drums/woods. A thin maple shell definitely delivers the most low end, with enough definition, and generally no annoying frequencies (when tuned and played correctly). d. |
| | |
New Reply
Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| No Low End on Low End Theory Speakers | EngineEars | Low End Theory | 9 | 6th January 2011 12:03 AM |
| Kick and Bass via Sidechain Compression as well as general Low End Theory | Umlaaat | So much gear, so little time! | 8 | 19th October 2010 05:25 AM |
| opinions - high end sound with low end gear?? | NesNeedsGear | Work In Progress / Advice Requested / Show & Tell / Artist Showcase / Mix-Offs | 5 | 7th January 2008 12:51 AM |
| Do cheaper version of Protools eats up your low-end kick?? | Checkmate Muzik | Music computers | 4 | 23rd September 2005 06:00 AM |
| Getting super low sub boom..... | TheReal7 | Low End Theory | 25 | 23rd May 2005 04:42 PM |
| |