Login / Register
 
OVERKILL!! 2x250w or 2x500w + NS10?
New Reply
Subscribe
akila
Thread Starter
#1
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #1
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
OVERKILL!! 2x250w or 2x500w + NS10?

Yes, another one of those threads.
The NS10m are rated as: Program 60w, max 120w but i have read in countless threads that these monitors like to have lots and lots of power.

I am looking for a clean signal at low levels to avoid any distortion and blowing tweeters.
I am torn between these amps for my NS10m;

QSC RMX 1450
2 x 280watts/8ohm, 2x 450watts/4ohm, 2x 700watts/2ohm, 1x 1400watts/4ohm (bridged)

QSC RMX 2450
2x 500watt/8ohm, 2x 750watt/4ohm, 2x 1200watt/2ohm, 1x 2400watt/4ohm bridge

Distortion is at 0.03% on both amps, actually the specs are pretty much the same except for the watts.
QSC - RMX Series Amplifiers

So is 2x500 watt @ 8 ohm overkill for these monitors? or am i reading the wattage wrong?

And yes, I am aware that i can probably get a hafler or a bryston but i DO NOT WANT to go hunting for a second hand amp.

So.. 2x250w or 2x500w?
#2
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #2
member no 666
 
Fletcher's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Location: Suffern, NY
Posts: 10,481

Fletcher is offline
It is a double edged sword.

Your drivers will last longer if you "over power" the speakers as you will create less distortion from the amplifier which will create less heat in the voice coil and cause the driver elements to move in a proper / flowing manner.

At the same time, one "feedback patch" [ooops] and you're wearing the drivers.

With NS-10M's I generally recommend that users go in after the cross over and add a 3/4amp fuse before the tweeter and a 1.5 amp fuse for the woofer [both "fast blow"] and that will stop about 90% of the "oooops" problems. The other 10% will get you no matter what as the fuse isn't fast enough to catch the "overage".

There is also a debate as to the fuse having a negative influence on the sound of the speaker [especially in damping response] which has to be weighed as a trade off [then again they're NS-10's so if you're looking for "great fidelity" you're already pretty close to the back of the pack].

If you have the amps hanging around, go for the 2x 500w. If you're about to buy them the 2x 250 will be sufficient, but 2x 500 will barely know its on and run way cooler [but will still draw more "wall current" and raise your over all electric utility bill].

Hope that helps.

Peace.
__________________

CN Fletcher

Professional Affiliation:

R/E/P Professional Recording Engineer and Producer forums


mwagener wrote on Sat, 11 September 2004 14:33
We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid

Roscoe Ambel once said:
Pro-Tools is to audio what fluorescent is to light
#3
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #3
Lives for gear
 
Ari-M.'s Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 972

Ari-M. is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by akila View Post
Yes, another one of those threads.
The NS10m are rated as: Program 60w, max 120w but i have read in countless threads that these monitors like to have lots and lots of power.

I am looking for a clean signal at low levels to avoid any distortion and blowing tweeters.
I am torn between these amps for my NS10m;

QSC RMX 1450
2 x 280watts/8ohm, 2x 450watts/4ohm, 2x 700watts/2ohm, 1x 1400watts/4ohm (bridged)

QSC RMX 2450
2x 500watt/8ohm, 2x 750watt/4ohm, 2x 1200watt/2ohm, 1x 2400watt/4ohm bridge

Distortion is at 0.03% on both amps, actually the specs are pretty much the same except for the watts.
QSC - RMX Series Amplifiers

So is 2x500 watt @ 8 ohm overkill for these monitors? or am i reading the wattage wrong?

And yes, I am aware that i can probably get a hafler or a bryston but i DO NOT WANT to go hunting for a second hand amp.

So.. 2x250w or 2x500w?


hmmm QSC PA amps and NS-10's.....I say get whatever will explode the fastest....then you can get your $$$$$ back on the amps, and get some decent speakers.....

if you already have a decent set of speakers....then buy some decent used perraux amps or hot house amps....they aren't the best for "fidelity" but they are acceptable and can be had for very little....

or maybe get a used Bryston 4b....or boulder...start looking around for decent used stuff....you will save a fortune....

why are you so keen on NOT getting a used amp?

also if you DO decide to get something used....stay away from the newer Hafler stuff.....it's not the same stuff that the name was built on....

and I would say 2x500 if you must....

at least the QSC's are switching amps and won't pull full current at idle....
akila
Thread Starter
#4
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #4
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Yeah, thats what im also wondering.. only old/used amps are recommended by everyone here....
Are there no good new amps available? Did everyone suddenly stop producing decent amps even for the newer passive speakers? I mean cmon'.

My NS10m's are my second (soon third) reference, but i still wish to have a good amp driving them. (New reference; Im thinking mackie HR824 MK2, to have a good bass reference, bcause yammies lack bass.)

2x500w seems to be the way to go. Just like i thought, the drivers will last longer with more power.. though 500w seems a little too much for the speakers.
Im kind of scared...

Im mainly working/mixing in the digital realm and never have i experienced lag or any kind of buffer hickup that would cause a sudden peak or "feedback" of any sorts.

Sure, there might be times when i record instruments and sudden "pops" happen, but i rarely have any of my monitors on when im recording (i use my headphones for that.. and not the headphones you see in my avatar mind you lol).

Mixing and Mastering usually happens under limiters and compressors.
Correct me if im wrong but can sudden peaks still happen while working like this? What might cause them?

If no more counter-argument opinions appear in the near future im going for the 2x500w.
Hopefully my poor yammies wont EXPLODE when i play something on them
#5
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #5
Banned
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7,099

dbbubba is offline
QSCs? I dunno'...

If you put the 500W amp on them without any fuses for protection YOU WILL eventually blow a tweeter and you'll probably bottom out the voice coil tube on the woofer, too.

Proper fuses will blow on the 250W amp, too.
This means that you will never use the extra "250W" of the 500W amp.

It just doesn't really add up to less distortion at the lower levels you should be mixing at.

Seriously, how loud ARE you going to be running them?

BTW..... if someone tells you they can hear fuses on speakers then they are officially in the "Completely Full of Sh*t Club."
#6
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #6
Lives for gear
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 4,243

Audiop is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher View Post
If you have the amps hanging around, go for the 2x 500w. If you're about to buy them the 2x 250 will be sufficient, but 2x 500 will barely know its on and run way cooler [but will still draw more "wall current" and raise your over all electric utility bill].
The aprox. 90dB sensitive speaker will hit about 113dB at 1 m which is enough for most work and that is what 200W will give you.

Possibly you don't want to run this particular speaker at those level due to excessive distortion.

However there is nothing intrinsically in an amp that makes it draw less current from the wall jus becasue it's lower speced.

Also a 500W amp will not automatically run cooler which depends more on the class of amp and the bias of the output stage.


/Peter
akila
Thread Starter
#7
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #7
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Quote:
Proper fuses will blow on the 250W amp, too.
This means that you will never use the extra "250W" of the 500W amp.
Wait, so what you're telling me is that if i decide to get fuses i will be better off with the 250w anyway?

Quote:
Seriously, how loud ARE you going to be running them?
Actually not that loud. What i am worried about the most is the distortion at low levels/crank up volume wearing and tearing.

People use 150w per channel with NS10m and run them fine, or so they say.. thats why i though 500w would be meaningless and i wouldn't notice a big difference from 250 > 500.
I am not going to play them LOUD AS HELL. I read that mixing in low volumes on the NS10 can be a good thing so most of the time i will play them at "medium" volumes.

Quote:
The aprox. 90dB sensitive speaker will hit about 113dB at 1 m which is enough for most work and that is what 200W will give you.

Possibly you don't want to run this particular speaker at those level due to excessive distortion.
You mean distortion by clipping (overpowering) or distortion (underpower)?

Ok, now im back to being torn between the two amps again.. Thanks lots! leaning towards the 250w amp now.... . HALP!
#8
11th September 2009
Old 11th September 2009
  #8
Gear maniac
 
patfont's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156

patfont is offline
Hi,
Do yourself a favor and check out this amp it is amazing, they still do make great amps and this is one, and made in the USA, you can actually call them and let them know how you are using it and they will bias for your application. $795.00, 20 year warranty. I do not work for this company.


Odyssey Audio: Khartago Stereo amplifiers. Call us (317) 299 5578. IN, USA.


It is 110 Watts per channel and stable down to 2 ohms. This is enough power, please (250 and 500 is overkill)<---My opinion only, I used to sell 10M's in the 1980's.
__________________
Oh, we got to let the music play!
akila
Thread Starter
#9
12th September 2009
Old 12th September 2009
  #9
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Quote:
Do yourself a favor and .....
I dont live in the U.S. but thank you for the advertisement.
"I am not looking for alternatives, if i was looking for alternatives i would have stated that in my first post" This statement is no longer true.

i only want opinions on the 250w vs 500w amps.
Quote:
please (250 and 500 is overkill)
so you say even the 250 is overkill huh..

another + to go for the 250w
Still interested in the 500w though....
#10
12th September 2009
Old 12th September 2009
  #10
Banned
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7,099

dbbubba is offline
500W is WAYYYYYYY overkill.
Even with the 250W you won't be into any significant distortion.

Yes, the proper fuses that would protect those drivers would probably blow before the 250W amp was running hard.
That mean that you would never even be using the extra wattage of the larger amp.

Actually, the idling or quiescent state of any amp has a very low current draw.
The difference between a 250W amp versus a 500W amp wouldn't add up to any significant cost in electricity.
If you were running the 500W amp extremely HARD for really extended periods of time it might show up on your AC bill. BARELY!

For reference... I run a Crown D75 on my JBL 4401s and it gets as loud as I care to listen.
It will get louder than I could ever monitor and make any kind of mixing decision well before the PEAK LEADs ever come on.
#11
12th September 2009
Old 12th September 2009
  #11
Gear maniac
 
patfont's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156

patfont is offline
......ok, when looking at amplifier power always look at the ratings from 20-20KHZ as that is the entire frequency range that you want to reproduce. So your real wattage is 260 and 450 respectfully. The Yamaha lit says 90DB with 1 watt. So with 260 you are at approx 114DB, and with 450 you are at 117DB. You really do not sound like you want to play that loud, 100DB is very loud. The 260 watt amp is fine. I really do not think you would even want to play them speakers that loud. 90DB is a good monitoring level, so actually you are coasting at just a couple of watts most of the time, but during a transit you may need 10 times more power, and you would be covered.
akila
Thread Starter
#12
12th September 2009
Old 12th September 2009
  #12
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Great info there patfont!
#13
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #13
Lives for gear
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 4,243

Audiop is offline
Continous SPL's at 100-110dB is loud if there's lots of eneregy in the midrange where the ear is mot sensitive. However clean transients and lows needs serious power and is not dangerous or uncomfortable.

A 500W amp is not overkill with a 90dB sensitive speaker if you deal with dynamic music. If you only produce supercompressed radiohits with no bass you may get by with 50W.

Of course the listening distance matters as well.

People should put a scope on the amp terminals while playing to get a grip on what power different material needs.


/Peter
#14
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #14
Lives for gear
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 4,243

Audiop is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by akila View Post

You mean distortion by clipping (overpowering) or distortion (underpower)?

Distortion by the nonlinear drivers in the speaker. Distortion increases with cone travel. Higer SPL needs more movement from the cones/domes. Even though the speaker may reach high SPL's the distortion may so high it's not useable.

Obviously you should never clip the amps and speaker distortion is not normally refered to as clipping.


/Peter
#15
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #15
Lives for gear
 
Ari-M.'s Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 972

Ari-M. is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by akila View Post
Yeah, thats what im also wondering.. only old/used amps are recommended by everyone here....
Are there no good new amps available? Did everyone suddenly stop producing decent amps even for the newer passive speakers? I mean cmon'.

My NS10m's are my second (soon third) reference, but i still wish to have a good amp driving them. (New reference; Im thinking mackie HR824 MK2, to have a good bass reference, bcause yammies lack bass.)

2x500w seems to be the way to go. Just like i thought, the drivers will last longer with more power.. though 500w seems a little too much for the speakers.
Im kind of scared...

Im mainly working/mixing in the digital realm and never have i experienced lag or any kind of buffer hickup that would cause a sudden peak or "feedback" of any sorts.

Sure, there might be times when i record instruments and sudden "pops" happen, but i rarely have any of my monitors on when im recording (i use my headphones for that.. and not the headphones you see in my avatar mind you lol).

Mixing and Mastering usually happens under limiters and compressors.
Correct me if im wrong but can sudden peaks still happen while working like this? What might cause them?

If no more counter-argument opinions appear in the near future im going for the 2x500w.
Hopefully my poor yammies wont EXPLODE when i play something on them


there are PHENOMENAL amps out there today....I could list 3 or 4, but my point was this....don't go buy good stuff (thousands of us dollars) and then hook it up to ns-10's ....it's really pointless....I think a lot about power ratings and damping is being oversimplified here....I know the speakers I use (passive, and I won't mention the snobby make or model) can present a load of less than 1/2 OHM on LF at full cone excursion....please take into account that amplifier power ratings are subjective numbers and DO NOT answer the entire question....same with the RMS power ratings on the speakers themselves....

these are simply guidelines....I use a larger set of dynaudios as my mains....and they are rated at 150-250 watts RMS but are capable of FAR more....as I can even clip a bridged bryston 4b w/o getting full excursion....

rule of thumb....buy quality amp with massive amounts of headroom and over engineered power supplies....I have a set of mark levinson monoblocks that are rated at 100 watts RMS....yet I can't manage to clip them at ALL under FULL excursion of my dynaudios....to simply look at watt ratings is misleading and should be nothing more than general guidelines for average "home" listening environments....

ns-10's would be silly hooked up to levinson mono blocks....you could buy a truck load of ns 10's for what a pair of those levinson amps cost....

f you want something to work day in and day out....ALL day and stay consistent and reliable, over engineer the system.....

if the ns-10's are a third reference, how are they a reference? you can only have one real reference (by which other "points of reference" are judged).....and how are you going to keep 3 sets of speakers aligned properly in the mix position....get your self ONE good set of near/mid field speakers (on stands off the meter bridge) and ONE good set of mains....your nears should be your reference for clarity and volumes up to 90 db or so.....and your mains should take over where those leave off....the scarier the better, I guess

this is all opinion, but I have been through more speakers than you can imagine (and amps)....


how do you know which speakers to trust if you are constantly changing things during a session....you will just start second guessing your self and your work and be trying to satisfy no real reference....

ok ok, check your mix on lot's of system's when you are done....take it to every stereo in as many rooms as you can that is common logic....but rely on one good calibrated and aligned set of smalls.....

in short DUMP those ns-10's

wow this is really disconnected and fragmented (lack of sleep, I should stop working) but if you can manage to put my general concepts together...this illustrates real world experience....not some numbers from a catalog or arbitrary "efficiency" test (which is done in anechoic chambers).....
#16
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #16
Gear maniac
 
patfont's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156

patfont is offline
ok.....The above is talking about Mark Levinson Amps, what they have is what is termed "dynamic headroom," and it is measured in db. So they are rated at maybe 100 watts per channel but as stated it really does not matter, because for brief moments they can deliver way more then their rated power into the speaker and usually down to 20Hz if necessary. Also google "damping factor," which is the amps ability to control the speakers drivers and that is why the Bryston sounds good on the Yamaha's it controls them. Actually the Bryston has a very stiff power supply so it has some dynamic headroom, but not much. So it is the way the Bryston controls the Yamaha's that makes a good match. I have an example as above, I had a Threshold amplifier rated at 75 watts per channel running into a difficult load, and your ears would give out before it would clip. So I know you want a QSC but ultimately are they really a good match for the Yamaha's? You are basically just going by power output, the QSC have little or no dynamic headroom, and the damping is no where near the Bryston.
#17
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #17
Lives for gear
 
jeremyglover's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: berlin
Posts: 1,545
My Recordings/Credits

jeremyglover is offline
does anyone have a link or a guide to putting in the fuses ?

thanks, jeremy
akila
Thread Starter
#18
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #18
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Quote:
So I know you want a QSC but ultimately are they really a good match for the Yamaha's?
By all means, if there are NEW amps that would be better than my stated amps in the $700~850 range, please tell me. I would love them in the +250w range though.
And no, i dont want to hear "save up a little more and you can get blah blah" i have read that sooo many times that my eyes bleed 'selfimportant internet oldfarts'.

I do not know anything about dynamic headroom, damping power, load, "stiff power supply", threshhold amp or whatever, im not a pro obviously.
Thanks for the info patfont! <3

Quote:
there are PHENOMENAL amps out there today....
Awesome! Tell me more about them!!

Quote:
I could list 3 or 4, but my point was this....
..... oh..

I mean seriously, is it really that hard to find a good amp for the Yamaha NS10m?? A 20 year old speaker?????? really??.. REALLY?? NS10m... cmon'.
Extremely confused now. help
#19
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #19
Gear addict
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 491

nickolo is offline
when you switch between speakers towards the end of a mix,its not because you don't know which set to trust[ because out there there's all sorts...cars..basic hi fi... mono tv-radio etc] its to build an idea of how a set mix will sound in diferent environments and systems..there is no real reference...
#20
13th September 2009
Old 13th September 2009
  #20
Gear maniac
 
patfont's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156

patfont is offline
I mean seriously, is it really that hard to find a good amp for the Yamaha NS10m?? A 20 year old speaker?????? really??.. REALLY?? NS10m... cmon'.
Extremely confused now. help

good amp---Parasound - Halo A23 Balanced Amplifier, also check B&K, and Adcom. 3 good ones.

Last edited by patfont; 13th September 2009 at 10:40 PM.. Reason: sp
akila
Thread Starter
#21
14th September 2009
Old 14th September 2009
  #21
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
I should probably also mention that i live in sweden and dont have the luxury of simply buying any amp and have a hard time finding authorized retailers around sweden.

Quote:
Parasound - Halo A23 Balanced Amplifier, also check B&K, and Adcom. 3 good ones.
Checked them out. Especially like the Adcom amps. I have heard good things about the GFA 545's, some people have quoted using this amp with the NS10 and like them.
But these new amps dont have any Level controls? stike or do i have to buy an extra "level controller"?

Have heard Alesis amps are quite good with the NS10's too. Im looking at the RA-500 but the QSC seems to be better.

Importing adcom would bring up the cost though.
I mainly use Thoman Cyberstore for buying equipment.

Importing electronic equipment from the US to sweden can be anything between $100 - 300. ugh.
#22
14th September 2009
Old 14th September 2009
  #22
Gear addict
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 491

nickolo is offline
I drive mine with a ten year old Arcam intergrated for now..Its fine for low to medium levels which is all i want from NS 10s.. Try some quads [you can upgrade them with kits]..
Look out for a good old crown,studer power amps.. Another possibility would be an old Rotel or two..
akila
Thread Starter
#23
15th September 2009
Old 15th September 2009
  #23
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickolo View Post
I drive mine with a ten year old Arcam intergrated for now..Its fine for low to medium levels which is all i want from NS 10s.. Try some quads [you can upgrade them with kits]..
Look out for a good old crown,studer power amps.. Another possibility would be an old Rotel or two..
Cool, thanks for the tips...... wait, those are not new amps.
#24
15th September 2009
Old 15th September 2009
  #24
Lives for gear
 
travisbrown's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,455

travisbrown is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by passivepeter View Post
does anyone have a link or a guide to putting in the fuses ?

thanks, jeremy
Not hard.

1. Get a couple fuse holders for each monitor.

2. Open case.

3. Drill a couple holes in the back and insert fuse holders.

4. Wire up each fuse holder post-crossover in-line to the woofer and tweeter.

5. Reassemble case.

6. Feel the love flow again.

I've seen it done at Little Mtn. in Vancouver with small bulbs on the front so you can see them warm up as you drive the monitors harder. Typically they'd use 1.5 amp for house engineers, 1 amp for guest engineers.
__________________
I'm not a producer, but I play one on Gearslutz.com
#25
15th September 2009
Old 15th September 2009
  #25
Gear addict
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 491

nickolo is offline
No sorry not new amps..! but second hand makes sense to me as there is plenty of choice at good prices..
Good luck+let us know what you end up with etc...
akila
Thread Starter
#26
18th September 2009
Old 18th September 2009
  #26
Gear interested
 
akila's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 16

Thread Starter
akila is offline
Well, thank you all for the help!
#27
3rd February 2010
Old 3rd February 2010
  #27
Gear nut
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 98

zerogravity is offline
Great thread! Sorry to come in so late on this.

Per the inline fuse instructions....

Stupid question, so sorry.

I assume the fuse goes on the yellow (positive) side after the crossover for the tweeter?

I've been searching for hours and hours, thank you for this thread.

I finally, (actually someone else) finally blew both of the tweeters. I've had these for about 15 years, no problem. It was an oops moment that just cost me $250... uggg

any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, I mix with the NS-10s, just a reference, not as my main set of monitors

rick
#28
3rd February 2010
Old 3rd February 2010
  #28
Lives for gear
 
travisbrown's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,455

travisbrown is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerogravity View Post
BTW, I mix with the NS-10s, just a reference, not as my main set of monitors
Be a man! Don't make excuses for using NS-10s.
#29
3rd February 2010
Old 3rd February 2010
  #29
Gear nut
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 98

zerogravity is offline
Ok, OK...lol

I used to use them exclusively. There I said it. But now for writing and such, I prefer to use my mackie's and my custom mains.



BTW, and tips on the fuse situation?
#30
3rd February 2010
Old 3rd February 2010
  #30
Lives for gear
 
travisbrown's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,455

travisbrown is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerogravity View Post
Ok, OK...lol

I used to use them exclusively. There I said it. But now for writing and such, I prefer to use my mackie's and my custom mains.



BTW, and tips on the fuse situation?
Stick 'em inline on the yellow wire and you will be fine.

I've seen NS-10s with fast-blo bulbs on the front too so you can watch how hot you are running them.
New Reply Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook  Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter  Submit Thread to LinkedIn LinkedIn  Submit Thread to Google+ Google+ 
 
Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Similar Threads
Thread
Thread Starter / Forum
Replies
rentedroom / Mastering forum
0
Rautio / High end
7
frets4fun / Low End Theory
27
avntgrd / So much gear, so little time!
10
el cochino / So much gear, so little time!
22

Forum Jump

SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.