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#3571
23rd June 2012
Old 23rd June 2012
  #3571
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For some reason the zed5.png wouldn't load.
The other jpeg screenshots don't show much other than device not found, which we already know.
I do see you have a ton of external devices connected to your computer and I would start by removing all of those. Printers are a problem always, and looks like you have a yellow flag there on some external drive device.....like I said you have to eliminate everything first (mouse, keyboard, monitor "barebone") Then hookup the FW and get the ZED working.....then start plugging all your other stuff in one thing at a time to see if one of those devices is causing a hardware conflict in your motherboard.
It was working fine earlier....right?....so did you change something or what was happening with the computer when it was working fine and????? there must be a clue there....see if you can find the log file error when it went south.
The Event Viewer shows the time and date so just figure out what date it happened and look through those. There will be an red error icon or yellow flag with an event ID code showing some service or module driver failing to load either at start up or while it's running.
#3572
23rd June 2012
Old 23rd June 2012
  #3572
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Killed everything...still no go. I got the zed driver into the device manager, by updating the 'unknown device' driver to A&H firewire audio driver, and it says it's working fine.. btw, I have the option of installing the A&H fw audio, or A&H zed r16 driver. When I was doing the zed r16 driver (for the ''unkonwn device") everytime i'd open the DICE control, there' be a conflict and it'd close, so I suppose that the A&H Firewire Audio is the correct one to use...



Why isn't the comp seeming to see that there's a device hooked up via FW, and why won't the DICE simply upload the firmware? Does it need to recognize the zed is hooked up before it can do so?

Yeah, those last attachments I think saved as jpeg for some reason, they probably downloaded instead of opened...


Also, I know exactly when it happened. I was browsin gthe net as usual, then i get an error/alert prompt saying 'unknown device has failed' or something like that, and to check dev.mngr...I'm sure it's the same 'unknown device' that i now loaded the A&H driver to...
I;ve been searching through the logs/alerts/errors, and I have this one come up 100's of times over the few days: (and months now)


"The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Ide\IdePort3."


Don't know what to make of it..

and tons of print spooler errors, which I guess is normal...

"The print spooler failed to share printer Brother DCP-7020 USB Printer with shared resource name Brother DCP-7020 USB Printer. Error 2114. The printer cannot be used by others on the network."


something to do w/ A&H all of yesterday...maybe it was when I uploaded the 'A&H zedr16 driver' to the unkown device, and there were conflicts w/ the dice control:

"
Faulting application name: AllenAndHeathFW.exe, version: 3.5.5.10185, time stamp: 0x4d19f944
Faulting module name: AllenAndHeathFW.exe, version: 3.5.5.10185, time stamp: 0x4d19f944
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Fault offset: 0x0000000000003a98
Faulting process id: 0x128c
Faulting application start time: 0x01cd50d1cb8c5bc2
Faulting application path: C:\Program Files\AllenAndHeathFW\AllenAndHeathFW.exe
Faulting module path: C:\Program Files\AllenAndHeathFW\AllenAndHeathFW.exe
Report Id: 2a719939-bcc5-11e1-8423-f46d0440d404
"

failed to create restore point:

Failed to create restore point (Process = C:\Windows\system32\DrvInst.exe "4" "0" "C:\Users\STUDIO~1\AppData\Local\Temp\{7cc81829-bf88-4169-2f74-c11e29408572}\AllenAndHeathFW.inf" "9" "6d9b0692b" "00000000000003E0" "WinSta0\Default" "00000000000005E0" "208" "C:\Program Files\AllenAndHeathFW"; Description = Device Driver Package Install: Allen and Heath Ltd. Sound, video and game controllers; Error = 0x8007043c).


amongst other random things...


I set my Vid driver to VGA generic, rather than the NVIDIA driver. I'd disable the card, but I don't have onboard graphics...yesterday I was having video playback issues (on youtube) till I un/reinstalled adobe flash...if that means anything...edit: nope still issues, just some vids play fine, others won't play...edit: think I found out why http://www.youtube.com/html5 youtube is using html5 on those vids, not adobe flash...yup, left the html5 trial and that all works good now...maybe someone else out there is having this issue...

Oh, and yes, everything was working perfectly fine, no issues, and then it all randomly went to hell for no aparent reason...
Attached Images
File Type: png zed8.PNG (58.7 KB, 116 views)
#3573
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3573
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2-Buss Compression on the Zed R16

I just picked up a second Empirical Labs Mike-E and I'm experimenting with using it as a 2-buss compressor via the "2 Track 1 Out" XLR's and back into the R16 via the line in of tracks 15 & 16 (with the faders all the way down). The only way to monitor the compressed audio in this configuration is via PFL (I think).

I'm curious what kind of routing others might be using to patch in outboard stereo compression. Maybe there's a smarter way?

Just as an aside, I have owned and used the Zed R16 everyday for almost 2 years now and I still marvel at its capabilities. It is truly an incredible piece of equipment!
#3574
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3574
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added another atachment...I guess I'm just grasping at straws here, but it says 'file info: file not selected' in the dice firmware uploader...hmmm
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File Type: jpg zed9.jpg (103.5 KB, 169 views)
#3575
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3575
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prado escondido is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by schlarb View Post
I just picked up a second Empirical Labs Mike-E and I'm experimenting with using it as a 2-buss compressor via the "2 Track 1 Out" XLR's and back into the R16 via the line in of tracks 15 & 16 (with the faders all the way down). The only way to monitor the compressed audio in this configuration is via PFL (I think).

I'm curious what kind of routing others might be using to patch in outboard stereo compression. Maybe there's a smarter way?

Just as an aside, I have owned and used the Zed R16 everyday for almost 2 years now and I still marvel at its capabilities. It is truly an incredible piece of equipment!
Hey, Schlarb ... I'm running 'parallel' with you! I just got a used, modded Drawmer 1968 ME with same intent.

I think it depends to large extent whether you want to be able to patch other things into your comp as well.

I'm running my comp patch 'thru' in the patch bay, so it's available for other things. I'm also using the board ADAT to RME Digiface ... and also running a RME Multiface with analog input. My idea has been to mix down analog out from the board master bus and record directly into my DAW through the Multiface analog ins. I keep reading people saying, 'why dither down and render, when you can record 16 bit directly?' I'm planning on finding out!

For this purpose I am able monitor either the board out through 2 Track Out or the DAW out via RME ... both routed to a Mackie Big Knob, which permits input source switching on the way to my monitors.

I've been thinking ... probably dangerous and error prone ... that monitoring out of the DAW will give me a better image of what the digitized sound will actually be ... as opposed to being seduced by the ZED.

So, at the end of this lengthy prologue, I intend to simply patch the master bus through the comp on the way to my DAW and monitor the DAW out; or, repatch and monitor the 2 Tracks Out directly.

Some other routing ideas I've had.

Make a stereo bus in my DAW out to channel 15 and 16. Send other channels to it in the DAW. Disengage the 'L/R' buttons on the channels. Send channel 15 to Aux 3 and Channel 16 to Aux 4 (Aux 3 & 4 are post-fader). Patch to the comp. Return to Stereo 1L and 1R. Monitor out your mains. (I'm pretty sure this works.

Same idea without the DAW bus. Send individual channels to Aux 3 & 4 with the 'L/R' buttons disengaged. Then continue as above. The only problem here is that while Aux 3 & 4 are post-fader, they are pre-pan. But you could deal with this by only sending a channel to one Aux or varying the send amounts.


Prado
#3576
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdsa View Post
added another atachment...I guess I'm just grasping at straws here, but it says 'file info: file not selected' in the dice firmware uploader...hmmm
here's an alert to do w/ registry files..maybe something to do with it? Happened about the same time as I remember...it was either that day or the day before...

Windows detected your registry file is still in use by other applications or services. The file will be unloaded now. The applications or services that hold your registry file may not function properly afterwards.

"
DETAIL -
5 user registry handles leaked from \Registry\User\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000:
Process 152 (\Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\lsass.exe) has opened key \REGISTRY\USER\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000
Process 152 (\Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\lsass.exe) has opened key \REGISTRY\USER\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000
Process 152 (\Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\lsass.exe) has opened key \REGISTRY\USER\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000\Software\Microsoft\SystemCertificates\My
Process 152 (\Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\lsass.exe) has opened key \REGISTRY\USER\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000\Software\Microsoft\SystemCertificates\CA
Process 152 (\Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\lsass.exe) has opened key \REGISTRY\USER\S-1-5-21-3759831212-3845241763-1491267625-1000\Software\Microsoft\SystemCertificates\Disallowed

"



Also, I let someone on my comp early today to use it for just browsing/listening, and they said that there was no sound, sindows prompted to automatically instaoll a the driver and it worked again...and it was through the zed, not the onboard sound, since the only speakers are hooked to the zed. And then it went back to where it is now...funny stuff.
#3577
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdsa View Post
added another atachment...I guess I'm just grasping at straws here, but it says 'file info: file not selected' in the dice firmware uploader...hmmm
Again just telling you the same thing nothing you don't already know.

It doesn't look like you've installed the Windows OS driver for the ZED and it doesn't look like you've installed the firmware (.bin) file to the ZED hardware itself. It looks like you have it saved there in a folder ready to be installed but it's not loaded. you have to browse to the bin file and then click update.
You need to do both.
1.) Get the DICE control panel to come up and then update the firmware. The Windows driver and the ZED firmware are two different things.
The Win driver is for Windows to recognize the ZED and the firmware is the internal code that makes the ZED work.
There are instructions in the manual on how to do that. You need to be careful with the firmware. Nothing will work right if that gets corrupted.
I would suggest you contact support via phone call and they should be able to fix things for you...
#3578
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3578
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schlarb is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by prado escondido View Post
Hey, Schlarb ... I'm running 'parallel' with you! I just got a used, modded Drawmer 1968 ME with same intent.
Prado, thanks for the reply. It's funny because I was looking at the Drawmer 1968ME a while back too! I already had one Mike-E and loved it so much that I picked up a second one.

I enjoyed reading through your configuration too. Anyone else have any 2-buss routing alternatives? djmukilteo? Allen & Heath really should have you on payroll, by the way!
#3579
24th June 2012
Old 24th June 2012
  #3579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schlarb View Post
Prado, thanks for the reply. It's funny because I was looking at the Drawmer 1968ME a while back too! I already had one Mike-E and loved it so much that I picked up a second one.

I enjoyed reading through your configuration too. Anyone else have any 2-buss routing alternatives? djmukilteo? Allen & Heath really should have you on payroll, by the way!
Thanks for the compliment schlarb....
I really like the ZEDR16 and think it's a perfect interface for most people who want a 16 channel analog mixer and digital interface.
I think for $2000 or even less in many cases, it is a great investment.
I've used it going on 3+ years now with two different computer systems (XP and then 7) with Cubase and it just works and does everything I want it to do. I know a lot of people are trying to route and do more things with the ZED and TBH I haven't used mine as much more than an analog mixer and 16 channel digital interface. The most intensive configuration I've setup was using the ADAT, but I found I don't need or use it that way very often and I have a pretty basic setup. Mics, keyboards and guitars are plugged into the 16 channels and Cubase is my tape deck.

The "2buss" thing has never been something I've gotten into so all I can tell you is try it and listen to what you get....
I personally haven't used any inserts or outboard stuff, but then I really don't have a need for that.

But of course there are many people who are not satisfied with what the ZED does and they need to modify, enhance or change things...all I can say is...experiment!
After all it's just a bunch of circuits that you're connecting together. It has it's limitation and for under $2000 it is what it is and does what it does...at the end of the day it's still just a mixer.

There are so many ways to route and use the ZED you really need to thoroughly read and understand that block diagram, use that and then just go for it (without blowing anything up of course!)
Good luck!
#3580
30th June 2012
Old 30th June 2012
  #3580
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asdfdsa is offline
double post
#3581
30th June 2012
Old 30th June 2012
  #3581
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asdfdsa is offline
Well,
I bought a new HD and installed win 7 fresh. Install drivers, no go. I've noticed that the LED's for the zed are a bit dimmer than previous (mainly the power led and dig master to L-R led), I read another thread where someone had dead FW, and dimmer leds and took it for repair, turned out to be a power supplyh issue....any one know anything about it? I personlly am on a deadline to get up and running by next week and if I could fix it myself I will, I'm not sure where the servcie centers are, but I really think theyre far from me.
Though the board seems to pass signal analog fine, running some mics through it and speakers out of it.
#3582
30th June 2012
Old 30th June 2012
  #3582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdsa View Post
Well,
I bought a new HD and installed win 7 fresh. Install drivers, no go. I've noticed that the LED's for the zed are a bit dimmer than previous (mainly the power led and dig master to L-R led), I read another thread where someone had dead FW, and dimmer leds and took it for repair, turned out to be a power supplyh issue....any one know anything about it? I personlly am on a deadline to get up and running by next week and if I could fix it myself I will, I'm not sure where the servcie centers are, but I really think theyre far from me.
Though the board seems to pass signal analog fine, running some mics through it and speakers out of it.
Wow....man I tell ya, Your problems seem to keep changing from month to month. Doesn't sound like you've ever got this thing hooked up right or working! You seem to be banging your head against a brick wall expecting different results.

And it seems your reports all over the place and vague as to what you've done or haven't done to eliminate and identify the actual problem.

You have something completely wrong or something is just plain broken. Over the last few months you have posted on here and been given every possible normal solution so either you have a bad computer or a bad ZED.

I would highly recommend calling A&H support directly and have them walk you through the installation and troubleshooting to determine what you have messed up or if something is really broken.
I would have done that months ago!....

Your story could also place suspicion you are using something cracked or shady, I'm not saying you are and don't want to jump to any conclusions but stuff like this is exactly what happens to people like that....

It's pretty difficult when nobody here can sit there looking at your setup to actually figure out what you're doing wrong, so anything you get here is either something you've already tried or something in your setup is broken.

I would have already sent the unit back or called support for a ticket and help! So something there seems to be suspect as well.
You say you have deadlines??....I would have moved on months ago!
Sorry.....but that's just nuts!

I'm afraid you don't seem to understand how to properly troubleshoot or eliminate problems like this.
If you disconnect EVERYTHING from your computer EVERYTHING!...except a monitor, mouse and keyboard and have nothing else AT ALL plugged in. Set your BIOS to F5 (default setup). Load the ZED Win7 driver, shut down the computer, plug the ZED FW cable in, then turn the ZED on and then turn your computer on!
Windows will either recognize the ZED or it won't. You have to fix that part before you go changing anything else. It will either work with your computer or it won't....There's nothing complicated in installing the driver or testing those two parts together. The computer needs to recognize the ZED driver period.
Nothing you replace or reinstall will fix that.
It will never work properly if that isn't happening!
Good luck!
#3583
1st July 2012
Old 1st July 2012
  #3583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmukilteo View Post
Wow....man I tell ya, Your problems seem to keep changing from month to month. Doesn't sound like you've ever got this thing hooked up right or working! You seem to be banging your head against a brick wall expecting different results.

And it seems your reports all over the place and vague as to what you've done or haven't done to eliminate and identify the actual problem.

You have something completely wrong or something is just plain broken. Over the last few months you have posted on here and been given every possible normal solution so either you have a bad computer or a bad ZED.

I would highly recommend calling A&H support directly and have them walk you through the installation and troubleshooting to determine what you have messed up or if something is really broken.
I would have done that months ago!....

Your story could also place suspicion you are using something cracked or shady, I'm not saying you are and don't want to jump to any conclusions but stuff like this is exactly what happens to people like that....

It's pretty difficult when nobody here can sit there looking at your setup to actually figure out what you're doing wrong, so anything you get here is either something you've already tried or something in your setup is broken.

I would have already sent the unit back or called support for a ticket and help! So something there seems to be suspect as well.
You say you have deadlines??....I would have moved on months ago!
Sorry.....but that's just nuts!

I'm afraid you don't seem to understand how to properly troubleshoot or eliminate problems like this.
If you disconnect EVERYTHING from your computer EVERYTHING!...except a monitor, mouse and keyboard and have nothing else AT ALL plugged in. Set your BIOS to F5 (default setup). Load the ZED Win7 driver, shut down the computer, plug the ZED FW cable in, then turn the ZED on and then turn your computer on!
Windows will either recognize the ZED or it won't. You have to fix that part before you go changing anything else. It will either work with your computer or it won't....There's nothing complicated in installing the driver or testing those two parts together. The computer needs to recognize the ZED driver period.
Nothing you replace or reinstall will fix that.
It will never work properly if that isn't happening!
Good luck!
or just get a Mac
#3584
1st July 2012
Old 1st July 2012
  #3584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malfunction View Post
or just get a Mac
LOL...the ZED doesn't care what brand computer you use.
#3585
1st July 2012
Old 1st July 2012
  #3585
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Tranxformer is offline
..but your mental sanity does.
#3586
6th July 2012
Old 6th July 2012
  #3586
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Bit of an update:

I've been going back and forth w/ support for a bit now, and have since screwed around with an inferior back up system to get going. In the meantime I think the ZED has gotten progressively worse, as I've tried it on mulitple comps and OS's (not to metnion the orig. one where it worked perfectly) and it's still unrecognized. I started using it as just the analog mixer and a few issues I've come to realize:

- The LED"s are significatyly dimmer, it was hard to tell at first, butwith the lights off and seeing them before in that situation they were much duller. (mainly blu power LED)

- The meter LEDs don['t work, at first it was just for the L-R (about a couple wks ago I think is when it went) dint rally pay much attention to it though was just kinda wondering wth? Now the meter doesnt light for the PFL or any other butten, when it had previously, even w/ the L-R meter being out.

-I tried running through the board as just an extra pre amp (pre w/48v-aux out) into my orther interface ubt noticed the mic was very distorted/buzzy/thin/weak through it, when through the other interface it was perfect as expected - also turning up the gain had hardly any affect, no increase in level.

- I suppose all these signs would point to a Power Supply issue? If so I guess I'll have to order the PSU PCB replacement for the ZED and swap them. If anyone knows how to diagnose this board to see if its the Power, FW, or anyother PCB or perhaps common faulty part (like caps going bad, etc) please let me know - I'd really appreciate it, and hope to get it up and running.


Thanks!
#3587
6th July 2012
Old 6th July 2012
  #3587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdsa View Post
Bit of an update:

I've been going back and forth w/ support for a bit now, and have since screwed around with an inferior back up system to get going. In the meantime I think the ZED has gotten progressively worse, as I've tried it on mulitple comps and OS's (not to metnion the orig. one where it worked perfectly) and it's still unrecognized. I started using it as just the analog mixer and a few issues I've come to realize:

- The LED"s are significatyly dimmer, it was hard to tell at first, butwith the lights off and seeing them before in that situation they were much duller. (mainly blu power LED)

- The meter LEDs don['t work, at first it was just for the L-R (about a couple wks ago I think is when it went) dint rally pay much attention to it though was just kinda wondering wth? Now the meter doesnt light for the PFL or any other butten, when it had previously, even w/ the L-R meter being out.

-I tried running through the board as just an extra pre amp (pre w/48v-aux out) into my orther interface ubt noticed the mic was very distorted/buzzy/thin/weak through it, when through the other interface it was perfect as expected - also turning up the gain had hardly any affect, no increase in level.

- I suppose all these signs would point to a Power Supply issue? If so I guess I'll have to order the PSU PCB replacement for the ZED and swap them. If anyone knows how to diagnose this board to see if its the Power, FW, or anyother PCB or perhaps common faulty part (like caps going bad, etc) please let me know - I'd really appreciate it, and hope to get it up and running.


Thanks!
Well all of those comments make way more sense than anything previously stated before.
Yeah....I think it's official....the ZED is DED!....sorry for the pun!

Unless you are an electronics tech used to troubleshooting audio mixers without a schematic then I would strongly suggest you take it to a local A&H service station. A&H can tell you where to take it in your area, but I doubt you can get the schematic from them yet and a lot of it is SMD which is almost impossible to fix. Ordering parts or board assemblies blind is just stupid because Murphy's law dictates that whatever part your guessing it is....it isn't!
I can only assume you checked the grounding problem long ago?
If that was OK then yeah it might be the PSU but it could easily be the FW board or you shorted something out plugging it into something it didn't like way back when.....any number of things..
You might be able to take the bottom off and look for any obvious visual blown caps or burnt resistors but without a schematic and scope your just shooting in the dark....
I take it this is not under a warranty?
Sorry man...not much fun..
#3588
6th July 2012
Old 6th July 2012
  #3588
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audibleobsession is offline
Overdriven Preamps?

Just picked up my ZED R16 yesterday and gave it a quick test last night. What can I say, this thing sounds awesome. But I'm more of a creative type in the studio and I'm already pushing this thing in extreme ways. Here's something I did last night:

1) Plugged my Moog Little Phatty in Channel 1. No EQ.
2) Mirrored the signal onto Channel 2 by using the a regular cable from the insert of Channel 1 to the input of Channel 2. Did some creative EQing.
3) Repeated for Channel 3. Overdrove the preamp and EQed out the low and high for good midrange bite.
4) Panned all three channels nicely.
5) Then I got even more creative and sent varies amounts of each of the channels to AUX 1 and ran a cable out from AUX 1 to the input of my homemade guitar amp. I stuck a piece of tape down on the TALKBACK putton and hit the TO STUDIO button to pickup the sound of the guitar amp in the room. Then I ran a cable from STUDIO 1 L to Channel 4. Gave awesome depth to the sound.

I found all this sounded best when several of the channels were driving in the red, but the MASTER L-R was kept tame (overdriving the MASTER did not sound nearly as nice as overdriving the preamps).

Can anyone jump in and comment on their experience with overdriving the preamps? This was inspired by soundtoys Little Radiator that I've been using alot lately to give bite to my synths and vocals and this little trick with the ZED R16 is sounding even better to me.

BUT, my question: I was just using headphones to monitor, no DAW. I realize that if I convert all the individual channels to my DAW the ADC will be overdriven and sound like crap, but if I just record the MASTER L-R in this scenario am I just getting the good analog warmth/drive of the preamps without clipping the digital signal?
#3589
7th July 2012
Old 7th July 2012
  #3589
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audibleobsession is offline
Also, another question that I know has been asked before but for my peace of mind: do you guys find the R16 runs hot? I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid, but when I put my noise close to the source of the heat coming from the vents in the back near the power supply I smelled a bit of that characteristic hot plastic/electronic board smell. Would anyone be so kind to comment on this? Cheers!
#3590
8th July 2012
Old 8th July 2012
  #3590
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voidar is offline
It had that "new" smell, but I can't say I notice it anymore. Though I might just be acustomed to it.
#3591
11th July 2012
Old 11th July 2012
  #3591
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asdfdsa is offline
So I found out the cost of the PSU pcb is about $65 and the cost of the FW pcb is about $100 - I think I'll just go ahead and buy and replace both, since the cost of labor is $100/hr for the nearest (4hr drive) tech and he said it'd be about 2-3hrs (which I feel is bs). For that cost I could buy extra parts and gamble.
#3592
11th July 2012
Old 11th July 2012
  #3592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdsa View Post
So I found out the cost of the PSU pcb is about $65 and the cost of the FW pcb is about $100 - I think I'll just go ahead and buy and replace both, since the cost of labor is $100/hr for the nearest (4hr drive) tech and he said it'd be about 2-3hrs (which I feel is bs). For that cost I could buy extra parts and gamble.
That seems like a reasonable parts cost....the gamble part is all on your abilities and time.
Keep us posted with the outcome!
You could be giving all of us a great insight to the inner workings and repair process, so I hope you will document with photos and/or videos with your progress!
I know I will stay tuned and give you any help I can!

Speaking as an electronics tech....If this is the direction your taking I would clear a clean space and open the mixer bottom up and do some preliminary visual inspection and testing before ordering any parts.
Some things can be easily checked with a simple DVM. A scope would be a plus, but you should be able to look at some voltages in the power supply section at least to see what's going on. If you can do that carefully. Physical visual inspection would be the first step followed by some careful probing and measurements.
Unfortunately no schematic makes things a little more difficult, but not impossible. With some pics I'm sure we can steer you in the right direction.
Good luck!
#3593
11th July 2012
Old 11th July 2012
  #3593
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asdfdsa is offline
I have a DVM and can check things out, not sure what I'm checking for other than continuity. Also have an oscilloscope, but don't really know how to use it, I could figure it out if necessary.

Upon visual inspection of the FW card, there are definite corrosion or maybe burnt-out spots around some of the components, probably around 10 different little 'spots', not sure if my cam can pick them up, but they can be wiped off (haven't yet tho).

My other Q is; what else could be the issue w/ the board? Since I'd like to just buy all the likely/possible trouble components at once and be sure to cover it.

Btw, here's a part ID list for the ZED, it has a great gut shot for everyone interested.

http://www.allen-heath.com/UK/Sparep...tification.pdf
#3594
11th July 2012
Old 11th July 2012
  #3594
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If you got that PL, is there a way you can get the schematic?
That sure would be handy!

Remove and check any fuses you can find (power off).
In order to properly check voltage you need to have the mixer powered up and then being careful to not short or touch anything.


If you take a close up picture of the PSU board there may be markings or labels indicating voltages that would be easy to spot and test. There are possibly test points on the boards (TP) that sometimes label the expected voltage.
If you're not comfortable with working on powered units safely and want to be safe turn the mixer off, clip the ground lead to the chassis or ground and then clip the red meter lead to an identified spot. Turn the meter on set to DC volts. (autorange if it has it). Turn on the mixer. Look at the meter and write down the values. Repeat that for as many spots on the board you can identify. If you are comfortable with moving the red lead around while hot just be careful. Stay clear of the 120VAC section.

Sorry this may be too basic but I don't know what your experience level is??

You can use the scope to easily troubleshoot bad PSU outputs or audio signal problems on the channel boards with a signal generator plugged into an input.
If the scope is fast enough for digital signals on the FW board it can be helpful there too.
But I would first do fuse and DC voltage checks and then isolate problems at the digital level once you know the PSU is OK.

The common DC output voltage levels for this mixer would probably be +15, -15, +5 and possibly 3.3. Again the schematic would be nice to have in front of you!
There will also be a +48VDC supply line for the phantom power going to each of the switches on the mono channels. That shouldn't be a problem though.
#3595
14th July 2012
Old 14th July 2012
  #3595
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sculley is offline
Logic and Lion

Any Logic Pro R16 users out there that have successfully upgraded to Lion? I'd like to hear your feedback. Not much in-depth info on the board yet.
__________________
Logic Pro 9
MacBook Pro (2012) 2.3Ghz;16GB;750GB(7200rpm)
Allen & Heath ZED-R16
----------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for your help.
#3596
14th July 2012
Old 14th July 2012
  #3596
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elMasher is offline
Logic on Lion

Quote:
Originally Posted by sculley View Post
Any Logic Pro R16 users out there that have successfully upgraded to Lion? I'd like to hear your feedback. Not much in-depth info on the board yet.
Sculley - I'm using Logic Pro v9 on Lion with the zed r16. It all works perfectly.
#3597
16th July 2012
Old 16th July 2012
  #3597
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Location: Canada
Posts: 184

audibleobsession is offline
A quick question for you guys: If I wanted to use STUDIO OUT 1 L/R and STUDIO OUT 2 L/R to feed headphone mixes to the artists I'm recording, would the following cable be what I'm looking for?

Hosa YPP-136 (6") | Sweetwater.com

Thanks!
#3598
19th July 2012
Old 19th July 2012
  #3598
Gear nut
 
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TrueTone Studios is offline
Anyone had any noise issues with the talk back on this board? mine hasn't worked properly since day one
#3599
19th July 2012
Old 19th July 2012
  #3599
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Posts: 22

Sonkite is offline
Are there any updates regarding a (optional) meter bridge? Would it be possible to add one from a 3rd party manufacturer? I am so sick of Ableton's "metering"
#3600
21st July 2012
Old 21st July 2012
  #3600
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Location: Scotland
Posts: 312

trevoire520 is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueTone Studios View Post
Anyone had any noise issues with the talk back on this board? mine hasn't worked properly since day one
I've had problems with my talkback cutting in and out, gonna take it back to where I bought it and have it looked at.

Has anyone managed to get the midi control/transport working on Pro Tools 10? I've been trying this today following all the instructions to the letter and have had absolutely no luck!
I hope they update the firmware to add HUI support like they have on the GSR24. Would save me the headache.
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