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#3091
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3091
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Oh and the fault error clearly indicates that the A&H driver is not running and is not executing so Win7 is still not executing the driver successfully.
Why that is....is more than likely a communication error with the FW controller. No handshaking going on so it crashes and stops!
#3092
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3092
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Hi all,

I'm a quite recent zedr16 owner myself. It's my first outboard mixer, and thanks to this thread and others, i'm really happy having bought it.

Unfortunately, yesterday after having pressed the 48v knob on channel 6. The whole gain part of that same channel went bust. It now makes very loud clicks and pops when i press it. Sound isn't getting in the channel, or very faintly comes out when the gain is at the minimum, and the fader pushed to the max... Also sometimes, when pressed slightly sideways, the sounds goes back through and faints back down with time.
The EQ works fine however, as i tried it by sending a digital audio feed from my DAW. So it seems only the gain stage is having an issue.

Seeing i bought it from another country, i would rather not have to ship it back, as that might prove very expensive and deprive me from a now indispensable part of my setup. It's still under warranty, for another 2 or 3 years. So is there anything i could from here first to fix this issue?
Would opening the zedr16 void the warranty? how easy/complex is it? and is there anything to be weary of when dismounting it?

hope someone can help. I'll be writing to A & H as well. but thought i might get a quicker reply from here.
KMC
#3093
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3093
KMC
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Hey guys

If someone could please clarify because the wording in the manual is all over the place... Does the FireWire controller allow 18 streams to and from the computer, which is selectable between the adat and pres, or is it the case that you can plug in an 8 channel adat pre and get 26 simultaneous IO to a DAW? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere!


Ta!

K
#3094
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_r_i_x View Post
Hi all,

I'm a quite recent zedr16 owner myself. It's my first outboard mixer, and thanks to this thread and others, i'm really happy having bought it.

Unfortunately, yesterday after having pressed the 48v knob on channel 6. The whole gain part of that same channel went bust. It now makes very loud clicks and pops when i press it. Sound isn't getting in the channel, or very faintly comes out when the gain is at the minimum, and the fader pushed to the max... Also sometimes, when pressed slightly sideways, the sounds goes back through and faints back down with time.
The EQ works fine however, as i tried it by sending a digital audio feed from my DAW. So it seems only the gain stage is having an issue.

Seeing i bought it from another country, i would rather not have to ship it back, as that might prove very expensive and deprive me from a now indispensable part of my setup. It's still under warranty, for another 2 or 3 years. So is there anything i could from here first to fix this issue?
Would opening the zedr16 void the warranty? how easy/complex is it? and is there anything to be weary of when dismounting it?

hope someone can help. I'll be writing to A & H as well. but thought i might get a quicker reply from here.
Opening the zed does not void the warranty as people were directed by A/H to correct the missing firewire ground themselves if they could.

I've opened 3 of them, that is pretty straight forward,just remove the screws.
However,to get to the 48v circuitry/buttons,you would have to also remove the entire guts and that could get tricky and might void the warranty if something else gets messed up in the process.I would not try it myself.

Are you or is there a qualified electronic tech in your town,otherwise,better to send it back.IMO.
#3095
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMC View Post
Hey guys

If someone could please clarify because the wording in the manual is all over the place... Does the FireWire controller allow 18 streams to and from the computer, which is selectable between the adat and pres, or is it the case that you can plug in an 8 channel adat pre and get 26 simultaneous IO to a DAW? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere!


Ta!

K
Yes 18+8
#3096
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_r_i_x View Post
Hi all,

I'm a quite recent zedr16 owner myself. It's my first outboard mixer, and thanks to this thread and others, i'm really happy having bought it.

Unfortunately, yesterday after having pressed the 48v knob on channel 6. The whole gain part of that same channel went bust. It now makes very loud clicks and pops when i press it. Sound isn't getting in the channel, or very faintly comes out when the gain is at the minimum, and the fader pushed to the max... Also sometimes, when pressed slightly sideways, the sounds goes back through and faints back down with time.
The EQ works fine however, as i tried it by sending a digital audio feed from my DAW. So it seems only the gain stage is having an issue.

Seeing i bought it from another country, i would rather not have to ship it back, as that might prove very expensive and deprive me from a now indispensable part of my setup. It's still under warranty, for another 2 or 3 years. So is there anything i could from here first to fix this issue?
Would opening the zedr16 void the warranty? how easy/complex is it? and is there anything to be weary of when dismounting it?

hope someone can help. I'll be writing to A & H as well. but thought i might get a quicker reply from here.
Sorry to hear about the demise of your channel 6.
What was plugged into that channel when you pressed the 48V that caused this?
I assume you accidentally pressed the 48V button without a condenser type mic plugged into that channel? But it must have been something that shorted pin 2 and 3 to do that because normally that wouldn't cause a problem with a dynamic plugged in there!
Have you checked the line input jack? That may still work....it looks like from the block diagram that is separated from the mic preamp input via decoupling caps and the line in jack is after the phantom power at the mic stage.
Have you checked all the other channels and does the phantom power still work properly on those channel's?

If the phantom power doesn't work properly on the other channels, you may be lucky and blown a fuse on the 48VDC phantom supply. I would suspect the decoupling capacitors at the mic preamp though. Whatever you had plugged in there must have shorted those out. Hopefully you didn't somehow damage the mic preamp itself.

Was there any smoke, sparks or smell of burnt components?

If you are handy with repairing electronics and have all the tools and schematics you might be able to fix it but that would be totally out of warranty....once you do that I'm pretty sure A&H would disallow any warranty. That's sort of a given.
I believe each channel comes out the front and is plugged into a buss panel at the back. So to get to that area you would need to remove all the knobs and a handful of screws from the front plate. That would give you access to the channel card which can then be unplugged from the buss panel. If you do undertake this yourself please be sure to take lots of photos and document it for posting here in the thread as it would be interesting and helpful to other people in the future!
Also most of the components will be SMD (surface mount devices) and reworking and repairing those can be very difficult and tricky unless you have the proper tools.
You could remove the bottom cover and see if there are any fuses blown which if you can locate them could be an easy fix and checked with a meter.
But again if you are not educated or knowledgeable in repairing electronic sub-assemblies you will more than likely do more damage than good!

A&H has repair and service centers all over the world that does not require you to ship it back to the factory. They use local audio/electronics repair shops authorized by the factory to make repairs for you. They will have the tools, parts and schematics to repair it properly. I'm pretty sure this won't be covered under your warranty if this was due to your own connection error and not a fault in the mixer itself. It would be covered if this was a flaw or fault in the channel board. But A&H has only a one year warranty, so if you have some sort of extended coverage with a secondary party, you would need to contact them for any reimbursement.

I would email or contact A&H Support and ask them for the closest local repair shop in your area.
Good luck and I hope you can get it fixed!
#3097
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMC View Post
Hey guys

If someone could please clarify because the wording in the manual is all over the place... Does the FireWire controller allow 18 streams to and from the computer, which is selectable between the adat and pres, or is it the case that you can plug in an 8 channel adat pre and get 26 simultaneous IO to a DAW? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere!


Ta!

K
Yes.... 16 analog mono and the master channels 17/18 on the mixer itself. In addition there is a total of up to 16 channels of ADAT I/O from an ADAT device. Page 24 of the manual. 8 of the ADAT channels can be streamed with the 18 analog over the FW to provide 26 channels of FW channels into your DAW in the FW mode.
#3098
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3098
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@cavern, @djmukilteo :

Thx for the quick replies!

I had no mic plugged in at that time. I was actually just trying out a Tascam PortaStudio488 MKI i had been lent and inadvertently pressed the 48v button while reaching for the gain knob. It was plugged using the headphone out plugged in channel 5&6 via a mini-jack to XLR cable. So if something had burnt, it would've been on both channels i assume ( however it's not the case, channel 5 is perfectly fine. ) and it wouldn't affect the line input, which it does.
I unfortunately do not have anything to test the phantom power here, will try and borrow a mic from a friend tomorrow. There was no smell of something burning nor smoke. It just suddenly stopped working, but not immediately after i touched the 48v knob. And i do remember having switched it on and off with the same cable and gear previously, without any damage... So i'm wondering if something wasn't faulty in the board in the first place. I haven't done anything to it that i had not done before.

As i mentioned before, if the gain is turned all the way down, i can hear some sound from the channel (using both the line-in and MIC inputs) if i push the fader to the max. The gain knob has however become very scratches when turned upwards and always produces a scratchy sound at around 9 o'clock. And if the gain is risen, there's no more sound coming out of the channel. Also, if i lightly press the 48dv knob, sounds intermittently starts and fades out...

Unfortunately, i'm quite a noob when it comes to soldering and electronics. So i'd rather have if fixed by an official a&H person here, or if it's really simple try it out myself. I'll try and open it tomorrow to see if there's a chance of seeing if something burned or got loose. I really hope it's not something that'll take the board away from me for too long, as i have quite a lot of project that need finishing, and seeing how much it improved my mixes, i don't see myself trying to mix ITB ever again...
#3099
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_r_i_x View Post
@cavern, @djmukilteo :

Thx for the quick replies!

I had no mic plugged in at that time. I was actually just trying out a Tascam PortaStudio488 MKI i had been lent and inadvertently pressed the 48v button while reaching for the gain knob. It was plugged using the headphone out plugged in channel 5&6 via a mini-jack to XLR cable. So if something had burnt, it would've been on both channels i assume ( however it's not the case, channel 5 is perfectly fine. ) and it wouldn't affect the line input, which it does.
I unfortunately do not have anything to test the phantom power here, will try and borrow a mic from a friend tomorrow. There was no smell of something burning nor smoke. It just suddenly stopped working, but not immediately after i touched the 48v knob. And i do remember having switched it on and off with the same cable and gear previously, without any damage... So i'm wondering if something wasn't faulty in the board in the first place. I haven't done anything to it that i had not done before.

As i mentioned before, if the gain is turned all the way down, i can hear some sound from the channel (using both the line-in and MIC inputs) if i push the fader to the max. The gain knob has however become very scratches when turned upwards and always produces a scratchy sound at around 9 o'clock. And if the gain is risen, there's no more sound coming out of the channel. Also, if i lightly press the 48dv knob, sounds intermittently starts and fades out...

Unfortunately, i'm quite a noob when it comes to soldering and electronics. So i'd rather have if fixed by an official a&H person here, or if it's really simple try it out myself. I'll try and open it tomorrow to see if there's a chance of seeing if something burned or got loose. I really hope it's not something that'll take the board away from me for too long, as i have quite a lot of project that need finishing, and seeing how much it improved my mixes, i don't see myself trying to mix ITB ever again...
After reading this,its possible you might have damaged the pre-amp and the 48v button had nothing to do with it,or could have contributed to the overload.

Going out of a headphone jack into a pre-amp(amp to pre-amp) is not a good idea.
You should have used a pin jack to TS cables and gone through the line in's for something like that..

It might not have happened that way but that is a likely senario,sorry to say.
#3100
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3100
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@cavern:

Damn T_T... What i don't understand is how it would happen all of a sudden when i had been using this setup for the past 3 weeks without any problem.
Also i did not send any hot signal from the Tascam. I do suppose that it would have overloaded the channel of the zedr16 and been very audible and have the red light lit. And wouldn't it have burned both channels the same? instead of just one. As i was only playing a mono signal at that time (a kick drum).
#3101
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3101
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My guess is you popped the two capacitors of the phantom power on that channel. The input you had there from the headphone jack was unbalanced placing a short to ground. Phantom power has to see a balanced pair on pins 2 and 3 at the mic input. You should have used the line in jacks and you should never use anything but a "low impedance" balanced input source into the XLR mic preamp connector. Just because it has an XLR connector on a patch cable doesn't make it low impedance and balanced. Lesson learned I suppose...The mic preamps are very sensitive and certainly don't like being driven by headphone outputs!
I don't think it will be very easy to get to. You can try taking the bottom off and see but the circuitry will be at the top of the channel strip and there's no way to get in there and do any soldering without melting or damaging the wiring. I wouldn't attempt that on my best soldering day!
Then you'll need to identify them (without a schematic) and they may be tiny SMD chip caps. In order to remove and replace those parts you would need to remove the channel card from the front of the mixer after removing all the knobs and front panel.
You would also need to figure out the value of those caps (hopefully the markings are still intact) and get the same size replacement parts.
You could look at another good channel to get the ID markings off the caps if the bad ones are burnt or have lost there markings.
And finally once you've dissected the channel card....have a proper desoldering/soldering tool to remove SMD's and replace, test and reassemble...and cross your fingers that was the problem!
#3102
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3102
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I'll do my best to get it to a tech here asap. and in the worst case scenario send it back for repairs/warranty.

I would've assumed there was some sort of electronic protection, and that the vu-meter and the sig leds were there to show if there was too much signal coming in... i feel really stupid. The board really is brand new, but as you said lesson learned.

I still don't understand how it could've worked for so long without any problem and all of a sudden blow though... I did blow other electronics devices in the past due to bad voltage / wrong impedance and the likes, and that was a very immediate breakdown.

I'll get in touch with a&h tomorrow first thing.
#3103
4th December 2011
Old 4th December 2011
  #3103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_r_i_x View Post
@cavern:

Damn T_T... What i don't understand is how it would happen all of a sudden when i had been using this setup for the past 3 weeks without any problem.
Also i did not send any hot signal from the Tascam. I do suppose that it would have overloaded the channel of the zedr16 and been very audible and have the red light lit. And wouldn't it have burned both channels the same? instead of just one. As i was only playing a mono signal at that time (a kick drum).
I've seen it a few times and have learned that lesson myself once.
You were likely lucky for three weeks and your luck ran out.

Amp to pre-amp connections are very touchy at best,especially if your using pin jacks wich can easily move around and cause all sorts of spikes.
Pushing the 48v button might have added to the unstability, ect..

I bet A/H would still repair it cheap or free.Call them.
If that was indeed the case,it was an accident,it happens.
#3104
10th December 2011
Old 10th December 2011
  #3104
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Review - NYCase ATA case for Zed-R16

The Zed-R16 is such a sweet board, and not too big, so I decided it would be great to use for live recordings. NYCase sells an "ATA" case for the Zed-R16 on Ebay. With the "upgrade" (better latches) it is $150 shipped. I knew this wouldn't be the highest quality ATA case, but since I only wanted it for light local use, I decided to give it a try.

The case arrived about a week after I placed the order, not bad. My first impression was that they must have sent the wrong case, as the box was much smaller than the A&H box. The case itself was of reasonable quality (for the price), slightly flexible but not flimsy, decent build quality, etc. Latches looked good. The inside of the case is lined with thin carpet. The only difference between this carpet and bare plywood is the carpet looks nicer. It isn't going to do anything to protect your gear - so you need to add foam.

Now NYCase provides a roll of foam with the case, but it is of such low density that you can easily squeeze it completely flat between your fingers. Obviously this will not provide any protection to your gear. So budget another $20 or so for a nice sheet of high density closed cell foam. Perhaps the foam provided by NYCase has some practical use, but protecting your mixer isn't one of them.

I happen to have a large 1" thick sheet of Ester foam, so I cut a piece to fit the case. This is when I discovered that the case is not tall (thick) enough to allow 1" of foam on top and bottom of the mixer. Placing the mixer on the floor of the case, the 1" foam in the top showed slight impressions from the knobs when the lid was closed. Looks like 1/2" foam will be required. 1" foam was also too thick for the sides of the mixer, so you will need 1/2" foam there too. Pretty marginal.

Mixer cases like this are typically designed so you can place the case on a table, remove the top, and use the mixer sitting in the case bottom. Unfortunately with this case, the mixer must be raised off the bottom by 1" before the power cord, firewire, and ADAT ports will clear the case. Since 1/2" foam is the thickest you can get by with on this case, the cables are not going to clear and you will have to lift the mixer out of the case for use. What a pain.

My final gripe is the handles. While they are of reasonable quality, they are positioned on the short sides of the case (what would be the sides of the mixer). This is fine if 2 people are carrying the case, but spread too far for one person to comfortably carry. A single handle on the front side of the mixer would have allowed a single person to carry the case like an over-sized brief case.

Bottom line - you get what you pay for. $150 is pretty cheap for a ATA style mixer case, and the price/quality ratio is OK. A few changes (like allowing more clearance for foam) would have made this a much better solution. As is, I would only recommend this case if ALL The following apply:

1. It is for very light use
2. you are willing to spend the time/money to obtain and install proper high density closed cell foam.
3. you can keep and store the original shipping box for any service requirements.
4. you are on a tight budget.

If I had it to do over again, I would have spent $350 or so and purchased a higher quality case. Unfortunately at the time I ordered, this was the only case I saw that fit the Zed-R16.

YMMV....
#3105
11th December 2011
Old 11th December 2011
  #3105
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still no luck with Win 7 64 bit

I still have no luck in getting my Zed R16 working with my win 7 64 bit laptop. The problem seems to be that my firewire card driver is incompatible with Win 7. I haven't been able to find any resolution. If anybody has his/her Zed R16 working with Win 7 64 bit, can you please let me know what firewire driver is being used? Go to Device Manager and look for what shows under IEEE 1394 Bus host controllers.

Thanks in advance.
#3106
11th December 2011
Old 11th December 2011
  #3106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidenmetal View Post
I still have no luck in getting my Zed R16 working with my win 7 64 bit laptop. The problem seems to be that my firewire card driver is incompatible with Win 7. I haven't been able to find any resolution. If anybody has his/her Zed R16 working with Win 7 64 bit, can you please let me know what firewire driver is being used? Go to Device Manager and look for what shows under IEEE 1394 Bus host controllers.

Thanks in advance.
I have 2 different Win 7 64 bit machines and the Zed R16 works fine with both of them. One is a desktop with a Belkin PCI Express card based on the TI chip. The other is a laptop with built in 1394. I just checked the device mgr on the laptop and strangely I don't see a 1394 entry. But I used this very laptop to record a concert with the Zed R16 just a few days ago...strange. Laptop is a Lenovo T420.

On the desktop, I didn't install any special driver for the firewire card. I just let Win7 do its thing when it powered up the first time and it automatically installed the correct driver (I didn't even load a driver from a disk). Have you tried un-installing the driver and letting windows pick the new driver? What chip set is on your firewire card?
#3107
11th December 2011
Old 11th December 2011
  #3107
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stereo loop configuration

what's the best way to setup a stereo effects outboard unit as an isolated loop using the board's inputs and outputs. i have a looperlaive lp-1 digital looper with stereo ins/outs. according to the manual, i should be able to set this up so that i can insert the 'loop/circuit' into the board's and then choose how to implement it - ie using faders, apply eq, routing to sub or digital, pre or post fader, etc. so far i have made very little progress getting this dialed in properly. currently i've got the output of the 2 track / 2 output L/R signal going into the input of the LP-1, and then the outputs going into individual pre's 15+16. that's the only way i've been able to get it to work properly, but the sound quality is also not so great with a tinny hollow 'echo' persisting that washes out the sound....

any ideas appreciated. i'm sure there's something very basic that i'm overlooking. arggg.....

thanks!
#3108
11th December 2011
Old 11th December 2011
  #3108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidenmetal View Post
I still have no luck in getting my Zed R16 working with my win 7 64 bit laptop. The problem seems to be that my firewire card driver is incompatible with Win 7. I haven't been able to find any resolution. If anybody has his/her Zed R16 working with Win 7 64 bit, can you please let me know what firewire driver is being used? Go to Device Manager and look for what shows under IEEE 1394 Bus host controllers.

Thanks in advance.
Ya know after you posted that last post (the one before this one) I had the thought that it had to be something with your firewire laptop card and that was the problem!....but I got distracted and never posted that idea!...sorry!
I was going to have you find out if it was 64bit or 32bit!
That would be the whole reason your not communicating correctly.
If your W7 OS is 64bit then all of your hardware HAS to have 64 bit hardware drivers installed for it all to work together correctly. You cannot have mixed bit hardware drivers. It's a system thing!
So....if your firewire card does not have a 64bit driver available or it is only a 32bit device it will not be compatible in a 64bit OS.

So two options available to you....
1.) Buy a new firewire card for your laptop that is 64bit or....
2.) Uninstall Win7 completely and do a fresh install of 32bit Win7 and then download the legacy ZED driver that is for XP (32bit which I think is still available) and then it will work...but then you'll be stuck in 32bit land!!
Of course any other software you're using like your DAW can probably operate in 32bit or 64bit but not the hardware.
Good luck....report back on what you chose to do!
Once again it comes down to having unique devices on ones own computer!!
Not the equipment...
#3109
11th December 2011
Old 11th December 2011
  #3109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippoTragedy View Post
what's the best way to setup a stereo effects outboard unit as an isolated loop using the board's inputs and outputs. i have a looperlaive lp-1 digital looper with stereo ins/outs. according to the manual, i should be able to set this up so that i can insert the 'loop/circuit' into the board's and then choose how to implement it - ie using faders, apply eq, routing to sub or digital, pre or post fader, etc. so far i have made very little progress getting this dialed in properly. currently i've got the output of the 2 track / 2 output L/R signal going into the input of the LP-1, and then the outputs going into individual pre's 15+16. that's the only way i've been able to get it to work properly, but the sound quality is also not so great with a tinny hollow 'echo' persisting that washes out the sound....

any ideas appreciated. i'm sure there's something very basic that i'm overlooking. arggg.....

thanks!
Wow....that's a weird device for sure....never heard or seen anything like that!
What does this thing do exactly?....Is it like a delay loop?

It says it's is all 1/4" unbalanced line level ins and outs....so I hope your using the line in jacks on the ZED and not any of the the balanced input or output XLR connectors!
You could be pounding those preamps on the ZED or pounding the inputs of your LP-1...Line in's for sure!
I think I would use the inserts on a couple of the analog channels (15/16) if you want stereo.

If you put that LP-1 on the inserts of two mono channel (like 15/16) you could send an audio track from your DAW to CH15/16 which would then go out the insert (send) into the LP-1 and back into to the ZED channel (return). It's all 1/4" unbalanced and two mono channels could be easily panned L and R for a stereo effect or delay loop of the LP-1 mixed onto the main channels L/R.
If you assign the same DAW audio track from your to CH1/2 as well as 15/16 you will then have the dry stereo on 1/2 with no effect and the sauced up version through 15/16 (effect). Now just assign both to the Main buss L/R and bounce that back into your DAW. You can do anything with the effect pair (EQ pan etc.) and anything with the dry pair all in stereo. Mix the two to taste which can then be mixed to taste.....that's probably how I would use it.
#3110
13th December 2011
Old 13th December 2011
  #3110
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can we expect a newer model soon?

well, i tried this mixer when this thread first started. at the time PT wouldn't allow me to use it directly with it, so I resorted to Logic for my production - hence 2 different set ups. Drove me crazy because I wanted my ZED to be used for both set ups.

long story short, the faders weren't to my liking. don't really care about a meter bridge, although the aesthetics would be very nice .

Mike, I know you took the suggestions and requests from earlier in this thread, but I'm praying there's another model coming out soon. I have found myself going back and forth about purchasing another one of these since Avid has opened up PT to all interfaces. but I know I'd still want a 100mm fader of some sort (and I don't want the USB models btw).

note: i'm sure Mike can't just tell me a date, but just know I'm looking forward to it.

sincerely,
me.
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Last edited by Shilla; 13th December 2011 at 02:39 AM.. Reason: clarification
#3111
13th December 2011
Old 13th December 2011
  #3111
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Posts: 86

mickrich is offline
Installed my new Zed-r16 last week, replacing a Yammie 01v96.
REALLY happy with it. I am not using the built in pres but am instead using isa 828, isa 220, LA-610 and API A2D to line ins.
I am using ADAT in/out to my RME digiface and returning the mix through the converters on the API A2D. I am really enjoying the EQ on the way in and being able to use my analogue compressors in the mix. Best purchase I have ever made for the studio. Absolute bargain for the price!
The monitor section is really cool. You can send auxes or the mix to the artists phones or a combination. I was able to send the main mix to the vocalist PLUS aux 1 so his mix was the same as mine except he had extra vocal level sent from the vocal input channel using aux 1 (with no latency). This made it really quick to get a mix for him. I also had a Drawmer 1968me on the 2 bus while tracking the vocal (with no latency) so the track was pumping a bit with his vocal. He loved the sound and it really helped him get a good vocal down.
Here is my first session with the Zed. Live drums mixed with samples. A sort of pendulum style rap track.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2133088/face%20of%20war.mp3

#3112
14th December 2011
Old 14th December 2011
  #3112
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Posts: 16

softflow is offline
hi all,
the R16 is still tempting me. One question though has not been anwered really which is quite important to me since I use much analogue outboard:
When feeding back FW channels into the board will they be fed back BEFORE the insert point or in other words: will I be able to process the beats from my DAW or Maschine with the analogue inserts?

Thanks
Ingo
#3113
14th December 2011
Old 14th December 2011
  #3113
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Location: Sunny Santa Fe
Posts: 105

Scott Shane is offline
@softflow,

The block diagram in the R16 manual indicates that the digital return is pre-insert. I haven't tested this myself but you should be able to insert analog gear into the path of the individual digital audio tracks.
#3114
14th December 2011
Old 14th December 2011
  #3114
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djmukilteo's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softflow View Post
hi all,
the R16 is still tempting me. One question though has not been anwered really which is quite important to me since I use much analogue outboard:
When feeding back FW channels into the board will they be fed back BEFORE the insert point or in other words: will I be able to process the beats from my DAW or Maschine with the analogue inserts?

Thanks
Ingo
All of the 16 mono channels have the digital return "pre insert" path.
If you select the second channel switch down next to the fader.
It is the yellow LED (DIG RET Pre-INS).
Channel comes from your DAW to the insert point, the "insert send" goes to your outboard analog box, the analog box "return" goes back into the ZED and you still have the ZED EQ in the path if you like. Fader control to the main buss with the L/R switch in.
You could setup that up any outboard processor permanently on any ZED channel and then just change the DAW send to whatever track or buss you want. It could be any group, individual track or buss.
For example...hook up a stereo compressor box on say channels 15/16 pan those L and R (stereo) and select the L/R mix buss switch on both channels. Now anything you you send from your DAW to 15/16 will be processed by that compressor. Adjust your fader into the mix, adjust your compressor and you will be getting an awesome clean analog signal on the mix buss!
If you don't want the compressor in the path...just punch out the DIG RET Pre Ins button. Dry signal. Easy as that!

I don't know how many of you have really listened to the ZED and found how clean and quiet that thing is....sometimes when I have headphones on and I stop all the sound like from a guitar or whatever and I actually listen to the ZED with no sound....I can't believe how quiet that thing is!...It sure makes a difference in the overall sound....
#3115
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3115
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: NE Scotland
Posts: 12

clitheroekid1001 is offline
9 Months Old

I've had my R16 for 9 months. This what I think. It's easy - it is just brilliant. I have used it to record live bands and solo singers to my Acer TM5730 laptop (W7 32bit). It has remained stable throughout. It is very quiet - the question just goes away. Being able to mix OTB is just so good. I do this all mainly for fun or paying hobby. Having all those knobs to play with is just excellent. Fab EQ, pres and recording / playback options. Looks & feels like quality.

The crticisms of no motorised faders should be disregarded because they would put the price up too much and also because you can use all the channel sliders as midi controls and record the movements in your DAW.

The other main criticism is the solo in place. Yes it would be nice to have this. However here is my perfectly acceptable workaround. Program the midi buttons to do this in your DAW. I use Reaper. It wasn't too difficult. There are only 8 user button which is limiting. I assigned the R16 shift button to undo all soloing. The R16 doesn't seem to send different different midi code when the shift button is used with the other user assigned buttons. This would be useful. Any ideas anyone?

For those that complain that there arn't enough inputs / outputs you probably need to tailor your projects to your budget or get creative within the limitations.

Conclusion - Money well spent
#3116
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3116
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 120

Ross H is offline
Device not found error

Does anyone get the error "Device not found" when opening the Control Panel at start up?

I'm on a MAC Pro, Snow Leopard, 10.6...I've updated to the latest driver/firmware from A&H. It happened on the old driver also.

I have to turn off the computer and reboot it, sometimes three or four times before it finally recognizes the device.

The only thing that I think it might be is a sketchy Firewire cable. Sketchy meaning it is 12 feet long and going into a converter from firewire 400 to 800. Once it is up an running I never have any stability problems so that is the only reason I discount it being the cable...

I no one else has this error than my first step will be to change the cable and try another FW insert on the computer.

Any ideas appreciated.

Ross
#3117
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3117
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djmukilteo's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,049
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djmukilteo is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by clitheroekid1001 View Post
I've had my R16 for 9 months. This what I think. It's easy - it is just brilliant. I have used it to record live bands and solo singers to my Acer TM5730 laptop (W7 32bit). It has remained stable throughout. It is very quiet - the question just goes away. Being able to mix OTB is just so good. I do this all mainly for fun or paying hobby. Having all those knobs to play with is just excellent. Fab EQ, pres and recording / playback options. Looks & feels like quality.

The crticisms of no motorised faders should be disregarded because they would put the price up too much and also because you can use all the channel sliders as midi controls and record the movements in your DAW.

The other main criticism is the solo in place. Yes it would be nice to have this. However here is my perfectly acceptable workaround. Program the midi buttons to do this in your DAW. I use Reaper. It wasn't too difficult. There are only 8 user button which is limiting. I assigned the R16 shift button to undo all soloing. The R16 doesn't seem to send different different midi code when the shift button is used with the other user assigned buttons. This would be useful. Any ideas anyone?

For those that complain that there arn't enough inputs / outputs you probably need to tailor your projects to your budget or get creative within the limitations.

Conclusion - Money well spent
Just thinking out loud on this Shift key but it needs to be in a Toggle mode first (press =on, press =off) in order to change any other key(s) function (normal function = shift off) to a different "shifted" function (shift =1). So in order for any specific button to have a "shift" attribute each button you want to respond to the shift button would have to check for "shift on" or "shift off" first.
If that makes sense.....
I believe any button can have multiple MIDI messages or operate a test check condition before it actually transmits it's programmed MIDI message. So the button would check for shift=0 or shift=1 and then operate one of two different functions based on that check.
But you would have to program each key(s) you want a shift function to perform on with that condition modifier added and have it in front of the actual MIDI transmit code. It's one of those If, then, else syntax.
If there is a function button on the ZED that already does work with shift, go into that buttons MIDI message code and look for the shift modifier and copy that part to the front of the buttons MIDI message.
#3118
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3118
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djmukilteo's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross H View Post
Does anyone get the error "Device not found" when opening the Control Panel at start up?

I'm on a MAC Pro, Snow Leopard, 10.6...I've updated to the latest driver/firmware from A&H. It happened on the old driver also.

I have to turn off the computer and reboot it, sometimes three or four times before it finally recognizes the device.

The only thing that I think it might be is a sketchy Firewire cable. Sketchy meaning it is 12 feet long and going into a converter from firewire 400 to 800. Once it is up an running I never have any stability problems so that is the only reason I discount it being the cable...

I no one else has this error than my first step will be to change the cable and try another FW insert on the computer.

Any ideas appreciated.

Ross
The ZED cannot share a FW port...that has been well documented!
It needs it's own FW card and port...any FW HDD or other FW devices connected to your computer will cause a communications loss with the ZED. Has something to do with the ZED being locked in sync and any additional requests on the FW buss structure causes the ZED to stop!
The problem is the ZED can't freeze, hold and buffer it's communication link and data when interrupt activity occurs and then come back to where it was before the interrupt. It just loses sync!
I haven't seen or heard of a lengthy FW cable being a problem...it does have to be the full FW connector cable and not the small mini FW port that some laptops have built in...and you should check that with a known good cable just to rule that out!
#3119
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3119
Gear nut
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 120

Ross H is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by djmukilteo View Post
The ZED cannot share a FW port...that has been well documented!
It needs it's own FW card and port...any FW HDD or other FW devices connected to your computer will cause a communications loss with the ZED. Has something to do with the ZED being locked in sync and any additional requests on the FW buss structure causes the ZED to stop!
The problem is the ZED can't freeze, hold and buffer it's communication link and data when interrupt activity occurs and then come back to where it was before the interrupt. It just loses sync!
I haven't seen or heard of a lengthy FW cable being a problem...it does have to be the full FW connector cable and not the small mini FW port that some laptops have built in...and you should check that with a known good cable just to rule that out!
The only thing on the FW buss is the Zed. No communication loss happening once the control panel loads and recognizes the Zed. Its on start up when I am firing all hardware and computer up for the first time that it doesn't see the Zed and I get the device not found error. Boot and reboot a few times, sometimes once, sometimes several times and the computer finally sees the Zed.

The Zed is FW 400 and the MacPro only has 800 so I am leaning towards some failure at boot up with the cable or the adapter that makes it 400 to 800. Its not a mini FW for a laptop.

Thanks for the response. I agree the cable is the first thing to replace.

Ross
#3120
15th December 2011
Old 15th December 2011
  #3120
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djmukilteo's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
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djmukilteo is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross H View Post
The only thing on the FW buss is the Zed. No communication loss happening once the control panel loads and recognizes the Zed. Its on start up when I am firing all hardware and computer up for the first time that it doesn't see the Zed and I get the device not found error. Boot and reboot a few times, sometimes once, sometimes several times and the computer finally sees the Zed.

The Zed is FW 400 and the MacPro only has 800 so I am leaning towards some failure at boot up with the cable or the adapter that makes it 400 to 800. Its not a mini FW for a laptop.

Thanks for the response. I agree the cable is the first thing to replace.

Ross
Maybe someone who knows more about the Mac can help...
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