Urei / Jbl 7510A?

[cleantone]

There is a new listing on eBay that is an 8 channel unit. This one is built differently. Check out the back panel...



larger pic here.

I wonder what the differences are? This seems to have a built in AC cord. Maybe not though. The I/O section is different. Looks like switchcraft XLR's. The directs are right next to the input and there is no jumper capable dsub's. Anyone know the scoop?

[charlesaustin]

i have 8 channels of these as well, they are constructed differently than the black ones, these have good size input transformer? 4 per card. anyone have the scoop on what these are, my guess is the earliest models had these, anyone else?

[cleantone]

I have only been able to use this unit a couple of times. I am digging it to far though. I did a session yesterday and ran all but bass, synth, and overheads into this...

kick (e602)
snare (sm57)
hat (sm86)
rack (e604)
floor (e604)
4 guitar channels (2 players, 2 sm57, 2 TC30K each)
Fender Rhodes (J48 direct)
trumpet (e865)
tenor (kms105)
alto (e865)
room (u87)

I really like what I got. I would really like to mod the jumpers into a pad with a button. Some stuff needs the jumper in and some stuff needs it out.

I still haven't figured out fully whether the noise floor is a little too high of not. So far so great! There is another 16 channel unit on eBay right now. Looks clean as hell too.

[Randall]

Glad to hear your starting to get along with your unit.. once you get the feel for her.. you will love it....

anybody reading this... he says there is a 16 ch. unit on feebay.. somebody better jump on it

[jtienhaara]

I keep waiting for you bastards to stop bumping this thread so the prices will go back down to $12.50 / channel!

...Bump...

[cleantone]

I waited to bump the thread until after I won the bid on mine.

[cleantone]

Man. I haven't tried to wrap my head around it yet. I am loading track into a DAW from the session I used this unit on a bunch. I was recording to an Alesis HD24XR that day. I was monitoring it's outputs with headphones though a soundcraft console. Some of these tracks are brickwalled. They do not sound bad per say but I want to know why this would happen. I am not sure if these were channel that had the jumpers in or not. I'll have to look at the unit and the tracksheet.

[zulusound]

Yes, the inputs have a brickwall limiting thing if the input level is too hot. Those need the resistors, unless you like that distortion (it sounds kind of cool on room mics). I am using a variety of resistors for different kinds of mics.

Evan

Originally Posted by cleantone

Man. I haven't tried to wrap my head around it yet. I am loading track into a DAW from the session I used this unit on a bunch. I was recording to an Alesis HD24XR that day. I was monitoring it's outputs with headphones though a soundcraft console. Some of these tracks are brickwalled. They do not sound bad per say but I want to know why this would happen. I am not sure if these were channel that had the jumpers in or not. I'll have to look at the unit and the tracksheet.

[cleantone]

So your popping in resisters of different values as needed? These are put in place of the jumpers on the dsub? Just inline and "loose"? How are you determining what it is needed? I had some channels with and some without the jumpers. If I was hearing any drive or crunch I moved to a channel without the jumpers. I'm really curious about this because I wasn't hearing any brickwalling on the day. I only saw it on the DAW. I do almost all location recording. I often do not have the luxury of spending a ton of time getting sounds. I am trying to figure out the best solution to make this unit usable. I definitely like the sound but not the restrictions of input so far. I wonder if there is a universal value that can be installed in all channels that would be a cross between no distortion and enough gain to get good signal to noise.

[VegetativeState]

Just got a 12 channel unit like the one Cleantone posted a pic of. Hoping these are as good as the others. Planning to try it for drums and some location recording.

[Lee Knight]

Originally Posted by cleantone

I wonder if there is a universal value that can be installed in all channels that would be a cross between no distortion and enough gain to get good signal to noise.

Hey Cleantone, we talked over at HC. Yes, I'm wondering the same thing about a universal value that'll work for most modern music level scenarios. Close drums, guitars, etc.

[BlueRadio]

FWIW I've got one of these...4 channels, I'm about to put it on ebay. It's the blackface model, JBL 7510 series. Sounds really killer with attenuators...But I'm hard up for cash once again If anyone's interested in picking it up pre-ebay, just PM me.

[Randall]

I havn't had all these all these problems.. I use the thing as a front end to my MS16....

[zulusound]

Originally Posted by Randall

I aint had all these all these problems.. I use this freaking thng as a front end to my MS16.... I'll post some of my work........

Have you recorded drums without using attenuators?

[d. gauss]

so what's the verdict on these things?

[Lee Knight]

OK... I finally got around to working on mine. When I first picked mine up I built straight jumpers in male 15 pin dsub connectors, which according to the manual, gives me 49dB. Way too hot. It sounded great on quiet sources but a 57 on a close snare? No way. As you guys have found out, you can't attenuate enough with the present gain pot.

So I went down the list of resistor values on page 9 of the manual. As you know, no jumper = unity. Straight jumper = 49dB. So I split the difference and chose 25dB. This requires a 330 ohm resistor. I miked up a snare and kick, 57 and RE20, and...

...PERFECT! No crunch. No noise, just a great sounding pre. So far I think I'll wire up 2 modules like this at 25 dB giving 8 channels. I'll leave my 3rd module straight wire jumped 49 dB for distance room micing and see where I want to go with my other 2 modules later. I've got a total of 20 channels. What a steal.

You could probably go with a higher value for less gain even, as I ran the level control up to only 3 or so. Get the manual. A Goolge search will get you a scanned pdf if you don't have it.

Wiring the dsub connectors with different resistors and just swaping that out is pretty easy and I'll probably get there too. Fry's has nice cases to house the connectors. I'm taping a piece of paper listing the resistor value and the gain in dB for easy change out.

They really sound good once you get it sussed...

[Randall]

Not to mention that there is a gate on every channel

What is interesting is that the modules in these used to sell for 800 bucks each new.

and that was a long assed time ago... probably the equivalent of around 2K today.

20 channels = 10 Large !

and they can still be found for a few lousy hundred for 8 - 24 channels.. people that get rid of these that cheap are nutz

[charlesaustin]

yup

[cleantone]

I am still trying to think about the ultimate solution for my 24 channel unit. I would love to make a 24 channel 1 (or 2) rack unit panel with good variable resisters hard wired to each channel. That way you can dial it back to where you need it but not far beyond that point. It might be easier to do toggle switches for PADing. Maybe a 3 way switch for more flexibility. I don't really want to have to put channels out of order or be swapping from one to another for different values. I'm all ears if anyone has good ideas.

[cleantone]

double post

[zulusound]

in line XLR pads?

Originally Posted by cleantone

I am still trying to think about the ultimate solution for my 24 channel unit. I would love to make a 24 channel 1 (or 2) rack unit panel with good variable resisters hard wired to each channel. That way you can dial it back to where you need it but not far beyond that point. It might be easier to do toggle switches for PADing. Maybe a 3 way switch for more flexibility. I don't really want to have to put channels out of order or be swapping from one to another for different values. I'm all ears if anyone has good ideas.

[charlesaustin]

i would just wire up 12 channels or so for drums and leave the pins in for everything else, if you have the resources to do so......Ps i have some spare parts for these and would entertain the ides up selling a card or two for the right price, shoot me a pm if you are interested.

[vernier]

I like the looks of that thing.

[charlesaustin]

It look even better on the inside, its made pretty well........btw i would have enough parts for a complete 8 channel unit

[Randall]

Here's another one 16 channels.... 284 clams buys it now.

They just don't know what kick ass pre's these are

JBL Urei 7510A Automatic XLR Rack Mixer Needs Repair - eBay (item 170189924572 end time Feb-08-08 16:00:00 PST)

[Randall]

If I ever got around to figuring out how to power up these modules individually I'd buy every single one of them I could get my hands on

[charlesaustin]

i have a spare power supply

[Randall]

[cleantone]

In line pad would be a solution but not the best one in my opinion. Also drums would need help but other things might as well. I recorded a horn section with this unit and everything sounded good going to my Alesis 24XR but in my DAW the tracks were a bit brickwalled. Luckily it was not too bad at all. I want to use this in remotes and wont be able to see a waveform.

[Lee Knight]

Originally Posted by cleantone

I am still trying to think about the ultimate solution for my 24 channel unit. I would love to make a 24 channel 1 (or 2) rack unit panel with good variable resisters hard wired to each channel. That way you can dial it back to where you need it but not far beyond that point. It might be easier to do toggle switches for PADing. Maybe a 3 way switch for more flexibility. I don't really want to have to put channels out of order or be swapping from one to another for different values. I'm all ears if anyone has good ideas.

I think my solution would work well for you. First off, it's just a question of finding that gain range which is right for close mic drums. As I mentioned earlier, the 330 ohm resistor knocks it down to 25dB. It worked brilliantly when I close mic'ed a snare and beat the living crap out of it. I'm going down one more notch however to be safe.

Bear in mind that switching resistor values is cake once you've wired up a couple of dsub connectors. You most likely wouldn't need to switch them out once you're in the 25dB range. If you do need to though, it would literally take... 10 seconds. Think of the dsub connectors as a dongle of sorts. Pop one out and pop another in. If you even need to once you get the gain range dialed in.

My initial fear was that once I added the resistors as the manual suggested for hot sources, it would sound like crap. It doesn't. It sounds serious. Take the time and wire some dsubs at attenuated values. You won't be sorry and it will work out very well for you.

If you're unclear as to what I'm referring to and how to do, let me know, I'm happy to explain in detail.