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Your, "Go to" EQ for metal kick drum?

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Old 21st August 2007   #1
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Your, "Go to" EQ for metal kick drum?

For those of you who are using an outboard EQ(s) for your metal projects. what are you using and why?
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Old 21st August 2007   #2
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API 550. Cause it works.
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Old 21st August 2007   #3
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the waves eq because i can pinpoint and suck out al the 200 - 800 i need to and then a 550 for the 5k and a pultec for the low end
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Old 21st August 2007   #4
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The API 550B or A will rock a metal kick drum. Especially if you pair it with an API 512 or 312 pre.
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Old 21st August 2007   #5
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API 550a followed by API 560. Get the edge with the 550a and the The graphic can do the smiley face eq and bring the click out while sucking out all the midrange.
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Old 21st August 2007   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84K View Post
API 550a followed by API 560. Get the edge with the 550a and the The graphic can do the smiley face eq and bring the click out while sucking out all the midrange.
that is the basic classic set up
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Old 21st August 2007   #7
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I would love to pick up a API eq...

For now, the TOFT ATB eq has done a great job shaping and toning for me.
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Old 21st August 2007   #8
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Portico 5033

Check out the Portico 5033,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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The 5033 can do some sheer magic on metal kick drum!! If you find that you kick has too much "plump" round texture with not enough click and smack, it would be incredibly simple to pull out the "honk" and murky hollow sound without hearing ANY sort of "EQ'd" effect. The 5033 has got to be one of the most passive sounding equalizers I have ever used. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
It would allow you to pull out the "note" of the drum and tune the attack of the beater head to you're taste. It also works really well for snare when you have too much ring or "boxy" resonance that can certainly obscure the picture and hide the "crack" of the top head.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
peace<o:p></o:p>
mixwell <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
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Old 21st August 2007   #9
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Yup... API 5500 here. Just amazing. Nothing does that "click" on the top end like the API.

Michael Wagener showed me a technique that I have been using very successfully as well.

I do the inside with a shure SM-91, and the outside with a Yamaha Sub-Kick. I find the mid "honky" sound that I want for presence on the inside mic and boost it a bit, boost the top end to get the right "click" if needed (sometimes not). Then, I high-pass at a pretty extreme amount... 500 somtimes.

On the subkick, I low pass pretty extreme too... often at 1K or more.

This leaves you with only the top end attack and the super low thud. Blend the two together and WOW! Sounds amazing, and leaves you plenty of room for the bass guitar.

Michael then delays the outside mic the number of milliseconds that corresponds to the dominant frequency of the kick drum so it won't trigger the compressor. I have messed around with this a bit myself and still haven't got it quite right, but all the stuff above has really, really worked well.

Hope this helps...
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Old 21st August 2007   #10
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For me its the EQs on my D&R console for sucking out mids and then the A Designs EM-PEQ to add in any needed low thump and aggressive click.
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Old 21st August 2007   #11
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For metal kicks my typical chain is - Distressor - Neve 1081 - Manley MP - API 5500 - API 560

I like this chain
It kills! In fact it can kill you while it's killing you!
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