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| | #1 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: L. A.-ish
Posts: 1,325
| Acoustical studio doors I just bought a new house, and need to do a bit of soundproofing for my composing room. Has anyone ever bought / installed a pre-fabricated acoustical door?
__________________ Michael Nielsen composer / producer http://www.michaelnielsenmusic.com "When will the governments realize it's got to be funky sexy ladies?" -Flight of the Conchords |
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| | #2 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: May 2007 Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 716
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,336
| I have almost finished my build. I have 7 "acoustical" doors. One door is a communicating door (2 doors back to back with air-lock) since it leads to outside the building. I'd suggest using just using a nice solid core door and using door seals by ZERO INTERNATIONAL. Pre-fab acoustical doors by Overly or such are about $6 -8K... I spent about $3k for each of my doors. Then outside of the door jamb, use copious amounts of acoustical caulk. I used 27 cases on my project. Here is one of my doos with seals that's almost finished. This door has an STC of 56db. As you can see there is a threshold and also cam-lift hinges. Regards, Bruce |
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| | #4 | |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Annapolis, MD/L.A.
Posts: 3,612
| Quote:
The name of the game is mass. As has been said, make sure to get a solid core door, with as much mass as possible. Really, what's going to be much more important than the door is the overall air-tightness of the room/wall/doorframe. A great "acoustical" door is going to do squat if there's bass leaking in thru the corners of the rooms and resonating the walls. It's going to be difficult to do, because you bought pre-built. The walls probably won't be built in a way that's conducive to absorbing lots of bass, and will probably transmit a lot of it. Stick a bass drum in your future tracking room, then go into your future control room and close the door and have a friend slam it. Now listen. Is the bass coming in thru just the door, or is it coming from pretty much everywhere? If it's the latter (and I'm betting it will be,) an "acoustical" door isn't going to help you much. Walk to a far corner and stick your ear in there. Hear that constant low resonance? A door ain't gonna stop that. What are your options overall? | |
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| | #5 |
| Jai guru deva om Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: South Carolina
Posts: 8,328
| I have a door and two windows from Ambico for my new room, but it will be quite some time before they are installed and I can report back on them. They are a Canadian company, although I found mine on eBay for like 20% of the price. The door weighs a ton, with the frame it might be 450 pounds or so? War
__________________ Warren Dent Email: warren (at) frontendaudio (dot) com Front End Audio Sells Gear Tuesday Testers: Hear the Gear Shootouts Product Videos on YouTube: Overviews of Gear |
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| | #6 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: L. A.-ish
Posts: 1,325
| My room is at the end of the upstairs of my house. So it only share 1 wall with another room, then the other 3 are outside. I don't work too loud since I don't have a tracking room (And I only track guitars with a IsoCab, and no drums), and I don't monitor too loud (seriously. I know everyone says that, but I don't) I don't have ANY construction skills, so I was looking for an efficient way to do this, then get my contractor guy to install the door. I have hear conflicting reports on the door. Some people say get a hollow core door, so you have the space inside to deaded sound. Some people say get a solid core, for the mass. I don't know???
__________________ Michael Nielsen composer / producer http://www.michaelnielsenmusic.com "When will the governments realize it's got to be funky sexy ladies?" -Flight of the Conchords |
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| | #7 |
| Lives for gear | The best way if you can in the beginning is use a air lock, 2 doors at right angles. This works great and you can use standard solid core doors with the good door seal kits. |
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| | #8 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,833
| Michael - since you're in a pre constructed building and (I'm presuming) don't want to start off with major construction, you'll be somewhat limited to the "soundproofing" that you can do. The biggest/thickest/heaviest solidcore door that you can put in is what you want. A hollowcore door won't do you a bit of good. Also, make sure whoever hangs it doesn't cut 1/2-3/4" off the bottom. That's what they are used to doing so the door closes easily and the AC isn't trying to pump air into a room that's airtight. Then seal well around the door. That's probably about the best you'll be able to do without going to much more intrusive measures. |
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| | #9 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: L. A.-ish
Posts: 1,325
| You are correct that I don't want to do any heavy construction. So in theory, If I get a good solid core door from Home Depot, and a good door seal kit, that'd be a good start? Would a normal (not studio builder) contractor guy know how to install this stuff?
__________________ Michael Nielsen composer / producer http://www.michaelnielsenmusic.com "When will the governments realize it's got to be funky sexy ladies?" -Flight of the Conchords |
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| | #10 |
| Gear maniac Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: +-4 GMT
Posts: 171
| Where are good places to go looking for door seal kits? Thanks! artnoiser |
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| | #11 | |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,833
| Quote:
Since it's an inside door, you might think about a threshold on the bottom. Weird, I know, but it will help you out in the "sealing" process. (Think of it as an exterior door as opposed to an interior door.) I see you're in Valencia. I know a finish guy that's done many studio doors for me in So Cal, and is very capable of custom work if that's what you end up needing. PM me if you need his name. Good luck. | |
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| | #12 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Annapolis, MD/L.A.
Posts: 3,612
| You can do it all yourself with stuff from Home Depot, just watch your shim work, try to get it as tight as possible, and, as drBill suggested, use a threshold. I'll say it again, tho, your problems will not be solved simply by installing a sound-treated door, and your sound-"proofing" is only as affective as the weakest link in your chain. The door will help a little, but will probably not provide you with the sound isolation you're looking for. If you're not willing to do some heavy construction, be prepared for compromise and disappointment. |
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| | #13 | |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,336
| Quote:
Acoustical Solutions Pemko Seals Regards, Bruce | |
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| | #14 | |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,833
| Quote:
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| | #15 |
| Gear maniac Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: +-4 GMT
Posts: 171
| Thanks Bruce! |
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| | #16 | |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Annapolis, MD/L.A.
Posts: 3,612
| Quote:
Bass traps and rigid fiberglass will help. Also, keep in mind you'll be rocking your studio monitors over the bleed as well, so it might not bother you as much once you're actually tracking. | |
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