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Does/can a true bypass looper convert a non true bypass
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NoPro
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#1
18th April 2013
Old 18th April 2013
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Does/can a true bypass looper convert a non true bypass

I have a vox wah 847 non true bypass pedal. Would a true bypass looper pedal such as a keeley true bypass pedal convert my vox wah to true bypass? I'm no good at mods at all. Thanks.
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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yes. It works by taking your wah completely out of the signal. Here's the signal flow:

Guitar out ->Keeley bypass in
Keeley Bypass in - send to Wah in
Wah out - Keeley bypass return
Keeley Bypass out - rest of pedal/amp chain.

when the Keeley pedal is on , signal flows to your wah; when it's off, it just goes through the bypass pedal.

I just had Keeley mod my GCB-95 Wah to add a true bypass switch and add a Fasel inductor since it's at the front of my signal chain, but having the Keeley bypass looper does the same thing with the flexibility that any pedals in the loop are now effectively true bypass.
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NoPro
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedorama View Post
yes. It works by taking your wah completely out of the signal. Here's the signal flow:

Guitar out ->Keeley bypass in
Keeley Bypass in - send to Wah in
Wah out - Keeley bypass return
Keeley Bypass out - rest of pedal/amp chain.

when the Keeley pedal is on , signal flows to your wah; when it's off, it just goes through the bypass pedal.

I just had Keeley mod my GCB-95 Wah to add a true bypass switch and add a Fasel inductor since it's at the front of my signal chain, but having the Keeley bypass looper does the same thing with the flexibility that any pedals in the loop are now effectively true bypass.
Thanks for the info...all my pedals are true bypass except my wah...just trying to figure out about buffers..true bypass etc. appreciate the help
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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Actually just realized my mxr dynacomp is not true bypass either...would putting the dynacomp after a true bypass pedal help tone suck?
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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Best way to tell is that if you like the sound with the pedals in a different order, great! Some pedal orders will dramatically change the sound, but only your ears can tell you if it's what you want.

for me, my signal goes:

Wah (TB)
Boss TU2 Tuner (buffered)
Keeley Compressor (TB)
Timmy (TB)
Direct Drive (TB)
Keeley Fuzz Head (TB)
Dual Looper (TB)
Loop 1 - Keeley Katana (TB), Ibanez AD-9 (buffered?)
Loop 2 - Phase 90 or Ibanez Chorus (neither TB, don't think buffered)
TC Flashback (TB)
Radial Bigshot (TB).

I've moved things around and am happy with the sound. May experiment with a different tuner or eliminating tuner completely, since I pretty much use the Snark on the headstock now...

It's all about trying different configurations. What I've spelled out works for me, but may not for you. To each his own.
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NoPro
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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Here's my chain
Strat>mxr 108 10 band Eq>dynacomp (latest)>octafuzz>Fulldrive Mofset >ocd>big muff>tc hof reverb>tc flashback delay. I want to add my vox 847 and earnie ball jr vol pedal. Should I use a true bypass looper at begining of chain? Sounds pretty good as is and I don't always use Eq , big muff or octafuzz but leave them plugged in.
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19th April 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPro View Post
Here's my chain
Strat>mxr 108 10 band Eq>dynacomp (latest)>octafuzz>Fulldrive Mofset >ocd>big muff>tc hof reverb>tc flashback delay. I want to add my vox 847 and earnie ball jr vol pedal. Should I use a true bypass looper at begining of chain? Sounds pretty good as is and I don't always use Eq , big muff or octafuzz but leave them plugged in.
You've got enough pedals there that you may not want to true-bypass everything.

That's the thing about buffered pedals. Somehow they got a rap for being a bad idea. True, some of the buffered pedals of the 70's were poorly made and thus kinda gave everything else a bad name by association, but usually the best way to keep your tone in tact is to use a combination of true bypass and buffered pedals. Most people will throw a buffered pedal at the beginning and end of their chain, if that's possible.

True bypass is easier and cheaper to make (usually). So the fact that so many pedal manufacturers still make buffered pedals isn't because they're trying to skimp on quality to save themselves money. It's because it works better. Sometimes. It all depends on a large number of factors. But rather than theorizing everything, the best way to tell is to experiment with what you got and see what works best. And as always, if you can't tell the difference, then don't worry about it. Because with modern buffered pedals, I doubt you could tell much difference, if any.
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Sound View Post
You've got enough pedals there that you may not want to true-bypass everything.

That's the thing about buffered pedals. Somehow they got a rap for being a bad idea. True, some of the buffered pedals of the 70's were poorly made and thus kinda gave everything else a bad name by association, but usually the best way to keep your tone in tact is to use a combination of true bypass and buffered pedals. Most people will throw a buffered pedal at the beginning and end of their chain, if that's possible.

True bypass is easier and cheaper to make (usually). So the fact that so many pedal manufacturers still make buffered pedals isn't because they're trying to skimp on quality to save themselves money. It's because it works better. Sometimes. It all depends on a large number of factors. But rather than theorizing everything, the best way to tell is to experiment with what you got and see what works best. And as always, if you can't tell the difference, then don't worry about it. Because with modern buffered pedals, I doubt you could tell much difference, if any.
Thanks, I prefer to not buy anything if I don't need to...although a looper to control different combinations of pedals would be cool...just then there's more cables to run through etc...there's the old fashioned way. Plug in and turn on what pedals I want used but keep em all plugged in...good problem to have
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19th April 2013
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Also, if you want a looper pedal, they're really easy to build. Not circuit boards. All you need is a box, a bunch of 1/4" jacks, a 3TDP switch, a couple of resistors, a power supply connector or a batter clip and an LED or two. Oh yeah, and wire and soldering iron. If you don't care about the LEDs, you could ignore the LEDs, resistors, and power supply/batter clip and get a DPDT switch instead. That would be even cheaper and easier to make, but you wouldn't have any indication of what direction the looper was running until you played something.

I made a looper pedal a while back with a red and blue led to tell me which loop I'm in. The pedal has one input then two inputs and outputs for each loop and a master output. So the signal comes into the pedal, goes through one of two loops, comes back into the pedal, and goes out to the next pedal. I use it to switch between two distortion pedals that are always on. They sound great alone, but don't stack so well, so I built this to be able to switch between them in one click. It cost me around $30. I got the stuff at Small Bear Electrical. I saved a bunch of money off the Keeley version, and mine has two distinct loops to choose from, instead of just engaging or disengaging the loop like the much more expensive Keeley version.

But first thing I'd do in your situation is removing all your pedals and then start adding them in one at a time to see if you are even experiencing tone suck at all. And if you are, find out which ones are causing it. If you have a lot of true-bypass pedals and no buffer pedals you can often experience tone suck from just running the signal through all of that wire without anything to boost the signal back up. It's kinda like using a really long cable to connect your guitar to your amp. Sometimes a little boost is a good thing.
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19th April 2013
Old 19th April 2013
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In my case, I use the looper for several reasons:

- It's easier to hit a button on the bottom row of my pedalboard than to reach up to the 2nd row.

- My AD-9 is noisy as heck; having it on a TB loop gets it out of the signal chain and there is a sound improvement vs. just turning it on and off.

- Loop can act almost as a preset button; for me, my lead sound is the Katana Boost and AD-9 engaged on slapback. One less button to push, and when you're trying to tap dance on pedals, simpler is better.
NoPro
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19th April 2013
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Which looper do you use?
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21st April 2013
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One I bought off of ebay from a guy no longer in business. two true bypass loops in 1 box with on/off lights. I think it was $70 or so 6-7 years ago.
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