So you built a splitter. How long did it take?

[andrewh]

I'd like to build a splitter soon. I'm curious. For those of you who have built your own, how long did it take? There are many variables that can affect the response, so the more details you can provide, eg: number of channels, type of wiring (multi-pin, XLR, etc), the better.

[philper]

Originally Posted by andrewh

I'd like to build a splitter soon. I'm curious. For those of you who have built your own, how long did it take? There are many variables that can affect the response, so the more details you can provide, the better.

It's a lot of work, and the parts, if you use good ones, are very expensive in the numbers you'd be buying them in. There is so much gear in the world already--why not see if you can buy what you want, maybe used?

phil p

[andrewh]

Originally Posted by philper

It's a lot of work, and the parts, if you use good ones, are very expensive in the numbers you'd be buying them in. There is so much gear in the world already--why not see if you can buy what you want, maybe used?

phil p

There are already many threads that discuss both the advantages and disadvantages of building your own stuff.

I started this thread to hear specifically about others' experiences building a multi-channel splitter system.

[scepstral]

you should build a compressor first. a splitter will seem much easier afterwards

[Matti]

Buy a bunch of Lundahl or Jensen etc transformers and then start to think how to

Matti

[andrewh]

[Remoteness]

First of all, what's your budget like?
How many channels do you want?
How many secondary splits do you need -- 2way; 3way or perhaps 4way?
How about the quality of the XFMR? The price can range from $30 - $125 per XFMR.

Help us help you -- More information please.

[andrewh]

Originally Posted by Remoteness

First of all, what's your budget like?
How many channels do you want?
How many secondary splits do you need -- 2way; 3way or perhaps 4way?
How about the quality of the XFMR? The price can range from $30 - $125 per XFMR.

Help us help you -- More information please.

16 to start, then I'm going to build a 8 channel box later on.
2 way
I wanted to use the Edcor xfrmr as another user who built their own was happy with the sound. I figured I'd try it out, and if I like the sound go ahead and use them. Otherwise, something in the $40-$50 range per xfrmr.

I guess I didn't make myself very clear in the initial post. I've read and re-read all about the different options for a splitter & snake.

What I'm looking for are actual war stories and pictures of home-built stuff. Like this

[Matti]

Originally Posted by andrewh

Not my best comment indeed

Matti

[DannyL]

Originally Posted by andrewh

16 to start, then I'm going to build a 8 channel box later on.
2 way
I wanted to use the Edcor xfrmr as another user who built their own was happy with the sound. I figured I'd try it out, and if I like the sound go ahead and use them. Otherwise, something in the $40-$50 range per xfrmr.

What I'm looking for are actual war stories and pictures of home-built stuff. Like this

I am curious; whch model of Edcor transformers are you planning on using?

I am not familiar with any mic level transformers by this company. A good mic level transformer is completely enclosed in a shielded case. This is what gives you good rejection from spurious radiated energy.

I personally recommend using Jensens. Also the Jensens have a threaded screw mount option which is huge help in fabricating: Just mount a long "L" bracket down the middle of your case and drill single holes for each transformer.

Another issue is choosing a project box of the correct size and strength.
I like Hammond boxes. You will need to get the correct Greenlee punches to make the holes in the box. You will need holes for XLR and/or multipin connectors, (or cable entrances) and ground lift switches. Aligning the
holes can be tricky. Use masking tape to completely cover the box, and use whatever drafting tools you are comfortable with to map out and mark the hole placements. Also: paint the box BEFORE mounting any hardware. Use zinc based primer and then a very good quality enamel paint, perhaps with a powder finish for extended life.

Many builders like to etch the labels into the metal.
Be sure to make the labels large enough to accommodate painting. Or you can buy engraved labels. If you use P-Touch type labels, try this:
After applying the labels, coat them with a couple of layers of clear lacquer. This will help to preserve them.

I give my self a day to plan the box. However long it takes to order and receive the parts, generally a day to order and a week to receive.
Then a day to do the drafting work. Another day to cut all the holes.
3 days at least for painting and drying. (I would let the paint dry for at least twice the time recommended by the manufacturer.)
A day to mount the hardware and solder the connections. Multipins can take longer.

Regards;

Danny

PS: Yes it takes me a long time. Fabricating is not my favorite thing to do, so I don't like to do it twice.

And a BIG BY THE WAY: Any info you get from Remoteness is worth its weight in gold. There are very few people around who know more about fabrication than our moderator.

[andrewh]

I have created a budget based on what I believe I need in my particular situation, and have put together a detailed parts list from Redco. I might upgrade to a better transformer early in the build, such as Jensen.

My build is a 16 channel split with a direct out, and an isolated transformer out with a ground lift. It will be stage box-style with a couple of snakes of various lengths that can be used depending on the size of the gig.

I am a sucker for photos of DIY built gear, and that's what I was looking for: just some anecdotes, such as "I built this splitter, and it took me all summer!", etc.

I'm sorry if I injected even an ounce of negativity into this forum. I have a very high respect for Steve, and many others who have done this for so long, as well as anyone else taking the time to help steer others in a positive direction.

[andrewh]

Originally Posted by DannyL

I am curious; whch model of Edcor transformers are you planning on using?

I am not familiar with any mic level transformers by this company. A good mic level transformer is completely enclosed in a shielded case. This is what gives you good rejection from spurious radiated energy.

I personally recommend using Jensens. Also the Jensens have a threaded screw mount option which is huge help in fabricating: Just mount a long "L" bracket down the middle of your case and drill single holes for each transformer.

Another issue is choosing a project box of the correct size and strength.
I like Hammond boxes. You will need to get the correct Greenlee punches to make the holes in the box. You will need holes for XLR and/or multipin connectors, (or cable entrances) and ground lift switches. Aligning the
holes can be tricky. Use masking tape to completely cover the box, and use whatever drafting tools you are comfortable with to map out and mark the hole placements. Also: paint the box BEFORE mounting any hardware. Use zinc based primer and then a very good quality enamel paint, perhaps with a powder finish for extended life.

Many builders like to etch the labels into the metal.
Be sure to make the labels large enough to accommodate painting. Or you can buy engraved labels. If you use P-Touch type labels, try this:
After applying the labels, coat them with a couple of layers of clear lacquer. This will help to preserve them.

I give my self a day to plan the box. However long it takes to order and receive the parts, generally a day to order and a week to receive.
Then a day to do the drafting work. Another day to cut all the holes.
3 days at least for painting and drying. (I would let the paint dry for at least twice the time recommended by the manufacturer.)
A day to mount the hardware and solder the connections. Multipins can take longer.

Regards;

Danny

PS: Yes it takes me a long time. Fabricating is not my favorite thing to do, so I don't like to do it twice.

And a BIG BY THE WAY: Any info you get from Remoteness is worth its weight in gold. There are very few people around who know more about fabrication than our moderator.

Thanks for the insight! thumbsup

The transformer I wanted to try out is the Edcor WSM600/600. Admittedly, it's much cheaper than the Jensen, but as Steve has said many times, "Don't skimp on the transformers, you might actually use them someday."

The box I plan to get is modular, and already has all the XLR connector holes, except for the ground lift switches. I don't plan to do any painting, as it seems to already be painted black, but I will need to find a solution for labeling things.

[philper]

Some of the manufacturers of snakes etc sell their parts--ProCo etc if you want to avoid the machining aspects of the job. Unless you are good at metal work and have the tools it is pretty hard to do as good a job as they do on that stuff, or at least it was for me. If you go with one of the commercial type multiconnector types you might could buy the fans and snakes rather than make them, and save your energy for wiring up your choice of XLR/trafo/switches etc..

phil p

[7rojo7]

I had 6 - 8 channel splits with VEAM connectors for in and 3 out (direct and 2 isolated), ground lift and -20dB pad for each channel (pre transformer), I have 1 left, but it's in the deposit for the moment.
I found the multipin connectors with different fanouts or breakout boxes or direct VEAM connectors the most adaptable, reliable way of interfacing with others.

[Bill@WelcomeHome]

Depends upon how you do it.

My own preference would be for 1 direct and two splits, with three ground lift switches and a multi-pin for outs.

In terms of how long this takes, assuming that you have all your metalwork together, it becomes a matter of how fast you solder. And if you are going to buy or build the connecting cables.

One friend of mine is set up to make his own circuit boards. That would really save some time. But even working with perf board, the mechanics aren't such a deal, it is the soldering.

[7rojo7]

ribbon connectors

[LX3]

I built a 24-channel splitter from the ground up, six years ago. Actually, I started building it eight years ago, but only finished it six years ago!

It was also partly responsible for breaking up a relationship Although it got finished a lot quicker after I had more time to myself.

Was it worth it? Possibly not. Could I afford to buy a commercially-made splitter of similar quality at the time? Definitely not.

So I suppose on balance, it all worked out for the best.

I'd love to tell you that I'd never do it again, but in fact, I just started thinking about building my third one...

[LX3]

Oh, you were asking about specs... That splitter was Lundahl transformers (forget which one, number is something like the 1581XL, but that's off the top of my head... check their site. It's fairly obvious which transformer is the best mic-split model). Two secondary windings.

All circuitry for each channel, including XLR connectors, was built on it's own PCB (keeps things as neat as possible, and relatively easy to service if necessary), then bolted side-by-side into a custom-made steel case. Then one secondary and a split of the direct output were wired to separate Veam multipins.

I've been meaning to post pics of the insides of that splitter for years. One day... I just don't take the back off very often.

Was it cheaper than a ready-made solution? Components were expensive enough (transformers were about £700, multipin system probably another £300-£400, custom metalwork alone was £400) and when you factor in the work involved then definitely not. Unless you have a severe shortage of cash and a lot of time on your hands I don't recommend the DIY approach.

On the other hand, the satisfaction when you finish these things is immense, and mine has come out with better components, spec, and finish than anything I've seen commercially.

My next splitter was a pile of Radial 8ox-j's, in a custom rack, again with Veams etc. Definitely not a cheap option either, and still a lot of work involved. Not sure there IS a cheap option (not that's worth bothering with in the long run anyhow).

Hope that's useful... if inadvertantly a bit discouraging! Wasn't my intention. What the heck, go for it.