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| Tags: advice observations enlightenment, cable and wire, connector world, help please help, wiring |
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| Multipin Snakes: analog or digital? | esumsea | Remote Possibilities in Acoustic Music & Location Recording | 8 | 1st May 2006 05:24 AM |
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| | #1 |
| Lives for gear | I'm in need of some inspiration . . . I bought some multicore yesterday for an insane price, but it wasn't quite what I expected. Nearly killed me picking it up . . . it should have been 1x20m lenth of 24 pair multi, and turned out to be 4x10m lengths and 2x5m lengths. My back hurts - I calculated I'd be able to carry it onto the train. Whoops . . . I'm getting to the question . . . bear with me! Given that I was in the game for some larger lengths of multi, I kind of want to be able to use greater lengths than the 10m I have, and I can't afford 6 lots of connectors (x2 for each end!) at the moment. I've been thinking about other connectors (mostly thinking about edacs) but worked out that there may be a better (cheaper) way to go. Given that Apogee use them, I thought I'd do some research into Dsub connections and think about running the cable as 3 lots of 8way cable (3xdsub per multi). I guess this would give me a lot of options as well, as I'd be able to make 8x tail fans instead of 24x tail fans, and would allow me to do different lengths (run 10m to left of stage with 1 set of fans there, run another 10m to right and run another 1 or 2 fans there) which is pretty appealing. Also, I can add to the system with 8-way multis at a later date if I need a 40m run for example, and that would work out much cheaper (and I wouldn't have to buy a whole new set of XLRs - just another 3 dsubs for each end - saving around £100 per run!) than running a whole new 24way core. It should be easier to carry as well (10m instead of 30m run - big weight difference!) And so to the question! My soldering skills aren't too shabby (I reckon I'll be OK!) so I guess that side of it's not so much of an issue. What I really want to know is has anyone done anything like this and did you have favorable results, and do you have any hints? Can anyone recommend a good (high quality - I don't want to skimp on the connectors and have them fail when a double bass player puts the spike on it . . . ) dsub25 connector and hood - I'm in the UK so that may make a difference. Is there a better way to connect two sockets together than using the extension jack posts, and will this do what I think it will (provide a screwthread for each connector allowing me to lock an M and an F together)? I know it's a bit of a rambling question, but all input is gratefully received! MohThoM
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| | #2 |
| Gear maniac Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 184
| A quick use of the search feature turned up these threads: 12-channel-multi-pin-connector multipin-connectors Designing a stage box / snake mass-edac-connectors steve-wiring-racks-organization Mmmm, search...... ;-) All the best, -mark
__________________ ********************* Mark Donahue Chief Mastering Engineer Soundmirror, Inc. Boston, MA www.soundmirror.com ********************* |
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| | #3 |
| Gear addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: London, UK
Posts: 341
| D-subs are only suitable for a narrow range of applications, and joining together lengths of snake is definitely not one of them. It doesn't matter how tough a backshell you use... that's not really the issue. The fiddly-ness of them is the issue, plus the fact that they're only rated for about 200 connect-disconnect cycles, the posts shear and strip threads if you're not super-careful and there's no really good strain relief on them. I know D-subs are cheap. But you will regret using them. Perhaps not today, but soon, and for the rest of your life.
__________________ Paul |
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| | #4 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Music City, USA
Posts: 1,354
| I was looking into this a while back as well and ultimately decided against Dsub connectors as they are much too fragile for continued connect/disconnect. We ended up going with EDAC 90 for our 24 channel snakes and I'm pretty happy with the results. They're the most inexpensive disconnect I'd consider using as long as you're not doing any heavy duty work (road touring, etc). I would chop off a small section of one cable (.5m maybe?) and put a disconnect on one side and XLRs on the other, essentially making a small fan-out. Then put male/female EDAC connectors on each end. That way you can take as many lengths as you need for a particular job and they'll all lock together. CPC connectors are another option - a bit more expensive and really only usable in groups of 12 (I believe max diameter is 37 pins?) but it's worth considering. They will be much more reliable than the EDACs. Don't use DSubs.
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| | #5 | |
| Super Moderator Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NYC
Posts: 4,919
| Search Tags work because I say they do! Quote:
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__________________ Steve Remote AuraSonicLtd.com the home of ASL Mobile & Location Production Remoteness on the Linkedin Network Remoteness on Myspace | |
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| | #6 |
| Lives for gear | I had already read all of the threads mentioned above, apart from Steve's exhaustive list of how his trucks are wired, and was still a little short of coming up trumps with the answers I'm looking for. So, to summarize, DSUB connectors are fiddly, may not take punishment too well, and may have a shorter life than EDAC connectors. I didn't mention, I don't do any rock+roll, and I'm the only person that ever plays with my toys (I'm a bit of a control freak). I guess it doesn't make too much of a difference, I'm just trying to talk myself out of the EDACs I guess. What should have been a 'solder up 48 XLR plugs' has turned into somewhat of a different problem! In addition to those 48 XLRs, I'm now going to have to stump up for 12 ends of EDAC too! Bugger! Thanks all for help, I'll have a good think. I may even have a play with DSUB connectors before making any decisions - they're certainly cheap enough! Further comments/recommendations are, as always, welcome! MohThoM
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| | #7 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Music City, USA
Posts: 1,354
| Dsub connectors ARE fiddly, they DO NOT take punishment well and as a result will almost certainly have a shorter life than EDACs if used for a multipin disconnect. The most important question: have you ever had to solder a Dsub connector? If you have, the experience of that alone should be making you think twice about this. Sure it's 12 EDACs the way I laid it out, but it would also be 36 Dsubs! The thought of that just makes my blood run cold.
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| | #8 |
| Gear maniac Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 262
| Crimping a d-sub is not a terrible chore at all if you use a Paladin or similar crimping tool with positive engagement. You can buy gold-plated pins by the 100 pack, and then insert the crimped pins into the d-sub block. Depending on the snake+shrink-wrap diameter, you may or may not be able to get the outer hood to fit neatly. 200 insertions is hardly infinite, of course, but if I could get that many gigs, I'd be happy to shorten the snake an inch or so and crimp again. And if it's only one pin that goes bad (and if you have left yourself a little slack), the tool that inserts usually has a removal tip on the other end. best, john
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| | #9 |
| Super Moderator Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NYC
Posts: 4,919
| I also prefer crimp rather than soldering for DSUB or ELCO/EDAC connectors. Much easier situation for sure.
__________________ Steve Remote AuraSonicLtd.com the home of ASL Mobile & Location Production Remoteness on the Linkedin Network Remoteness on Myspace |
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| | #10 |
| Lives for gear | I decided to make up one end and just give it a go - I didn't find it too hard work, but it's pretty slow going! I'm glad I've got a third hand tool, otherwise I'd be buggered! Thanks all for the advice, I'll try and get one section working and go from there . . .
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