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Old 19th September 2007, 10:05 PM   #1
AnAverageJoe
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Question What Type of Solder For...

I need help!!!!! I'm going to start soldiering connections for a snake, and I would like to know what kind of soldier should I get or use. i.e. Rosin 40/60 or some thing like that








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Old 19th September 2007, 11:50 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnAverageJoe View Post
I need help!!!!! I'm going to start soldiering connections for a snake, and I would like to know what kind of soldier should I get or use. i.e. Rosin 40/60 or some thing like that
AverageJoe,

You mean SOLDER, (pronounced SAW-DER), not soldier, (which are the people who make up the armies that fight wars) right?

May I suggest Kester 44? It's an excellent solder.

Not much is better, many solders are a LOT worse!

Hope this helps.
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Old 20th September 2007, 01:16 AM   #3
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I have used 63/37 solder since I started wiring my own stuff in the late 70s...

Multicore makes a 2% silver solder that's very good.
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Old 20th September 2007, 03:21 AM   #4
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This has not much to do with what type of solder to use.. but I think some of you will still enjoy these links on great video tips how to solder:


Soldering Tips and Solder Techniques | Video Soldering Tips from BEST
MAKE: Blog: SMD soldering video
Soldering Videos_How to solder with American Beauty
VIDEO: Hand Soldering for Through-Hole Components with Training Certification
DT techniques: Soldering
Video: Induction Soldering
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Old 20th September 2007, 05:14 AM   #5
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The most important thing to look for is "rosin" core. Do not use "acid" core solder, which is what plumbers use.

I use the standard 60/40 solder from Radio Shack.

Wash your hands well after soldering so you don't get lead poisoning.
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Old 20th September 2007, 06:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnabas View Post
The most important thing to look for is "rosin" core. Do not use "acid" core solder, which is what plumbers use.

I use the standard 60/40 solder from Radio Shack.

Wash your hands well after soldering so you don't get lead poisoning.
Damn, so you're not supposed to chew on that stuff????
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Old 20th September 2007, 02:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnabas View Post
Wash your hands well after soldering so you don't get lead poisoning.
Good point.
Also,
-get a small fan to pull the fumes away from you to an outside vent
-clean your tip often
-work at the proper temperature (I use 750 degrees for most work, 850 sometimes)
-don't eat while working
-drink a glass of milk (or ingest some dairy) after soldering, this helps your body pass the impurities and poisons thru your system instead of building up and causing cancer over time.

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Old 20th September 2007, 02:24 PM   #8
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Great tips Jim, thanks!

Wish I'd followed more of them when I was soldering like a maniac over the past 4 weeks.
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Old 20th September 2007, 08:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim vanBergen View Post
AverageJoe,

You mean SOLDER, (pronounced SAW-DER), not soldier, (which are the people who make up the armies that fight wars) right?

May I suggest Kester 44? It's an excellent solder.

Not much is better, many solders are a LOT worse!

Hope this helps.
Yea I noticed I did that after I posted the thread, lol sorry ...

Is Kester better than Rosin?

Where can I find Kester Solder?

Also, What are your thoughts on Rosin Solder?
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Old 20th September 2007, 08:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remoteness View Post
I have used 63/37 solder since I started wiring my own stuff in the late 70s...

Multicore makes a 2% silver solder that's very good.

I google searched, but I didn't really find any good link of the actual company website... BTW, Who do you order your solder from?

Have you ever used Kester Solder?
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Old 20th September 2007, 08:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseJ View Post

Thanks, I appreciate it... I'll let you know if I have any questions after watch the video
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Old 20th September 2007, 08:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnabas View Post
The most important thing to look for is "rosin" core. Do not use "acid" core solder, which is what plumbers use.

I use the standard 60/40 solder from Radio Shack.

Wash your hands well after soldering so you don't get lead poisoning.

Thanks, I was thinking about going with the Rosin 60/40, but I wasn't sure if I should do that.

when you say core, i.e. "Rosin Core". What does core mean?
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Old 20th September 2007, 09:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim vanBergen View Post
Good point.
Also,
-get a small fan to pull the fumes away from you to an outside vent
-clean your tip often
-work at the proper temperature (I use 750 degrees for most work, 850 sometimes)
-don't eat while working
-drink a glass of milk (or ingest some dairy) after soldering, this helps your body pass the impurities and poisons thru your system instead of building up and causing cancer over time.


WOW Thanks a lot!!!!! you guys are scaring me now

You said get a small fan to pull the fumes away, Would it be wise to get a fan the pushes them away from me or pulling?

I also will be working in an enclose booth kind of like a sky box or something... What do you recommend for those types of environments?
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Old 20th September 2007, 09:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnAverageJoe View Post
Is Kester better than Rosin?

Where can I find Kester Solder?

Also, What are your thoughts on Rosin Solder?
My $0.02: I prefer Kester, the way it flows to either copper wire, be it #2 or 24gauge,
as well as to a circuit board.

I buy Kester 44 in various sizes (diameters) from Techni-Tool. it works best for me, and I'm always using different size wire every time I work, not the same gauge wire like some of my buddies. Techni-Tool also sells great soldering irons (make sure you get an iron with a temperature gauge to dial in the heat you want, and a selection of high temp tips for your work. I also can not stress how good the little gold-colored brillo-like soldering tip cleaner (I think the manufacturer is HAKKO) is much better than using a wet sponge to clean the tip, and keeps the temp correct!

By the way, be careful- it's easy to drop a grand on good soldering tools! Do get a good clamp, it will save you loads o' time.

To answe your question about pushing versus pulling, OSHA prefers PULLING away from you, sometimes I like pushing past me to keep me cool when it's hot. BOTH is best! You want to stay away from the fumes.
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Old 20th September 2007, 11:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim vanBergen View Post
My $0.02: I prefer Kester, the way it flows to either copper wire, be it #2 or 24gauge,
as well as to a circuit board.

I buy Kester 44 in various sizes (diameters) from Techni-Tool. it works best for me, and I'm always using different size wire every time I work, not the same gauge wire like some of my buddies. Techni-Tool also sells great soldering irons (make sure you get an iron with a temperature gauge to dial in the heat you want, and a selection of high temp tips for your work. I also can not stress how good the little gold-colored brillo-like soldering tip cleaner (I think the manufacturer is HAKKO) is much better than using a wet sponge to clean the tip, and keeps the temp correct!

By the way, be careful- it's easy to drop a grand on good soldering tools! Do get a good clamp, it will save you loads o' time.

To answe your question about pushing versus pulling, OSHA prefers PULLING away from you, sometimes I like pushing past me to keep me cool when it's hot. BOTH is best! You want to stay away from the fumes.

Ok No Problem, Hey Thanks for the help... BTW the soldering iron I have is something from radio shack thats 40watts

Does Hakko make better products than Weller?

I did some research and I found in an article that it was best to use Soldering irons with selectable wattage settings i.e. like from 20-40watts
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Old 21st September 2007, 01:52 AM   #16
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Weller makes some very good products, but I'm a little bit of a snob...because I used to solder really, really badly and I work daily with about 60 guys who solder circuit boards, buss bars, and power supplies for a living....so I've been taught how to solder VERY WELL by the solder snobs.

Do what works for you, and good luck, my friend! Let us know how we can help!

Jim
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Old 21st September 2007, 03:52 AM   #17
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If no one answered, "rosin core" means the rosin forms the core of the solder. It is there to act as a flux to insure a better solder joint. I have never taken any precautions when soldering, which may explain the strange growths on my head. No precautions, no growths, that was a joke. I figure if you do not get those heavy whiffs of rosin, you ain't soldering. YMMV
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Old 21st September 2007, 05:35 AM   #18
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For the type of work you want to do, here's another vote for Kester 44 - if you are in the US. If you are in lead-free Europe, good luck.

Weller and Hakko both make good products.

Keep your tip tinned, and look up the word, "Eutectic" (i.e. 63/37 such as Kester 44). Your connections will thank you :-)

BTW, there is no brand of solder called 'Rosin Core' - though I used to use a brand called, "Ersin Multicore." But I haven't seen that in years. Not to worry, practically any solder that I know of that is sold for electronics is rosin core.

best,

john
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Old 21st September 2007, 06:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boojum View Post
If no one answered, "rosin core" means the rosin forms the core of the solder. It is there to act as a flux to insure a better solder joint. I have never taken any precautions when soldering, which may explain the strange growths on my head. No precautions, no growths, that was a joke. I figure if you do not get those heavy whiffs of rosin, you ain't soldering. YMMV


Kester 60/40 .031 here


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Old 21st September 2007, 07:48 AM   #20
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Kester 44 all the way. I use the big stuff (.050) for all my tube amps.
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Old 21st September 2007, 08:08 AM   #21
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Yea, i go with the .031 for the circuit boards and connectors, im just used to it


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Old 21st September 2007, 10:47 AM   #22
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Great thread! Lot's of good info about a topic most of us dread. (There’s nothing like staring at a full rack of unconnected, 96-point, TT patchbays to get your blood flowing – NOT!)

One of the best investments I ever made was a Weller EC2002 soldering station. I don't know if Weller still makes it, but that station has soldered hundreds of connectors, PCB components, miles of cable, etc.

Up to now, I’ve used and kept in stock all the sizes of the standard 60/40 rosin core Radio Shack solder. Based on this thread, I’m going to try Kester 44. Also, based on Jim’s advice, I’m going try upping my tip temps a little it.

For sure, a soldering station is one piece of equipment worth having. If not in the short-term, it’ll certainly pay for itself in time.

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Old 25th September 2007, 02:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim vanBergen View Post
Weller makes some very good products, but I'm a little bit of a snob...because I used to solder really, really badly and I work daily with about 60 guys who solder circuit boards, buss bars, and power supplies for a living....so I've been taught how to solder VERY WELL by the solder snobs.

Do what works for you, and good luck, my friend! Let us know how we can help!

Jim

Sorry I took so long to come back, I've been really busy... I don't solder much ,and last time I tried it was a total failure. So What would you recommend for practicing? Do you think the radio shack PCB are a good practice?
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Old 25th September 2007, 02:38 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boojum View Post
If no one answered, "rosin core" means the rosin forms the core of the solder. It is there to act as a flux to insure a better solder joint. I have never taken any precautions when soldering, which may explain the strange growths on my head. No precautions, no growths, that was a joke. I figure if you do not get those heavy whiffs of rosin, you ain't soldering. YMMV
Thanks!!! Hey BTW, what is a flux? I've seen liquid flux while doing a google search
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Old 25th September 2007, 02:54 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabney View Post
For the type of work you want to do, here's another vote for Kester 44 - if you are in the US. If you are in lead-free Europe, good luck.

Weller and Hakko both make good products.

Keep your tip tinned, and look up the word, "Eutectic" (i.e. 63/37 such as Kester 44). Your connections will thank you :-)

BTW, there is no brand of solder called 'Rosin Core' - though I used to use a brand called, "Ersin Multicore." But I haven't seen that in years. Not to worry, practically any solder that I know of that is sold for electronics is rosin core.

best,

john
Thanks, What I'll do is buy Both Kester 44 and Rosin Core 60/40 and see which one I like the best
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Old 25th September 2007, 02:56 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by stevep