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| | #61 |
| Lives for gear |
Today my father-in-law came by to help with some odds and ends. We filled the space around the sliding door frame with backer rod and compound, then put the mouldings back on. Also put some wood stops between the double walls in that doorway where fabric wrapped (1/2") 703 will be screwed into. Re-hung the sliding doors and made some more absorber frames for the live room corners.
__________________ www.JimKeaney.com |
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| | #62 |
| Lives for gear |
The photos...
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| | #63 |
| Gear maniac |
As a young engineer-trainee I find this build truly inspiring! Thanks for sharing |
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| | #64 |
| Lives for gear |
Thanks! Got some more 500 modules this week. |
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| | #65 |
| Lives for gear |
My latest issue is with my heating system. It's a 2-ton rooftop package unit. The problem: with it on, it's still pretty cold in here. The issue (I believe) is that the vents are up on the ceiling 11'-14' high. So the heat is just staying up there. When I got up on a ladder to check the vents, that highest 2 feet is sweltering hot. The vents are blowing hot air but it's not making it's way down to me. Today it was 42 degrees when I came in and turned the heat on. 8 hours later it's at just 65 degrees. And that's with the thermostat "held" at 90 degrees the whole time. I'm thinking the ceiling absorber clouds I have hung on the ceilings are trapping the heat. So I'm not really sure how to handle this. Some neighboring tenants suggested ceiling fans, but that's not really something I want to add to my rooms. I just want the system to be efficient and heat the rooms as designed. |
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| | #66 |
| Gear maniac Joined: Oct 2011 Location: Winterthur Switzerland
Posts: 188
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Might need to add some ducting to bring it down. Pity now the walls are finished. Maybe you could make it look funky i.e. "by design".
__________________ No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. |
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| | #67 |
| Lives for gear | That was the first thing I thought too, but yes it would definitely look "funky" (to put it nicely). One way to hide the ducts, is luckily most of the vents are bordering the walls and near corners. so perhaps I could run some flex ducting down behind the corner absorber panels which straddle the corners and do have enough of a gap behind them. I'm going to call the HVAC tech who installed everything and have him come by and see if he has any solutions first.
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| | #68 |
| Lives for gear |
A few shots of the control room taking shape...
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| | #69 |
| posts: pending Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 517
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Question about your Alpha Link. Does it heat up quickly? The manual suggests leaving a 1U space above and below for cooling.
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| | #70 | |
| Lives for gear | Quote:
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| | #71 |
| posts: pending Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 517
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| | #72 |
| Lives for gear |
Nice stuff!
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| | #73 | |
| Lives for gear | Quote:
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| | #74 |
| Lives for gear |
I knew it would add noise, but I decided to see just how much rf noise a dimmer switch might put off. I turned an amp on with a Strat plugged into it (not played but turned up) and recorded the noise floor before and after. Looks like I will absolutely not be using any dimmers.
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| | #75 |
| Lives for gear |
Painted a few more absorber panels tonight which will straddle the live room corners. I also filled/covered the double-wall gaps in the doorways. I wrapped 1/2" OC 703 in black burlap and screwed them into wood stops (mounted on each wall). |
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| | #76 |
| Lives for gear |
After hand-stapling 30 absorber panels I find out my father-in-law has a (air) staple gun. May've gotten a little too eager with it...
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| | #77 |
| Lives for gear |
Finally an update and even these photos are weeks old! With 4" clouds in the live room I was still get some flutter near the corners, so I hung 4" absorbers across all 4 corners. Flutters are gone, but now the room is feeling a bit dead. So... I'm looking into diffusion ideas. The least expensive ways I've seen to add some reflection back in may be DIY poly diffusors or simply plywood deflecting in unparallel/random series. I also got around to treating my Iso Booth. I was given a bunch of Aurlex panels (wouldn't have bought them) so I ran them along the two longer parallel walls, and put some 2" absorbers against the short back wall. Because the height of the booth is 14', I was getting tons of flutter echoes and a nasty resonant frequency at about 395hz. So if you look in the 4th photo I put some 3/4" 703 panels right on the ceiling, then hung 4" clouds about 2.5 feet from the ceiling. After these photos were taken I added another 4" cloud next to the one shown (also placed 2 trashbags full of 703 scraps above the clouds to help fill the void). I then ran 2" absorber panels along the 2 longer side walls just above where the auralex squares stop. By then it was good and dead. In the final photo check out the mini-fridge one of bands bought me as a studio-warming (or 'cooling') gift! I've begun recording/mixing here since my last post and am using any spare time to do small touch-ups (ISO window frame is actually done, not spotty like it's shown) and improve the live room acoustics. I hope to have some professional photos taken later this month and launch a website asap. |
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| | #78 |
| Lives for gear |
Another live room update: poly diffusors. I used 1/8" hardboard (masonite). In the first photo you can see how I used a router to curve the edges of the 1"x3"s giving the side lips of each poly sheet a groove to plug into. I used the sagitta mathematics calculator to get these to sit at 120 degrees. Alternated between 4ft and 3ft width. 8' heights. edit: if anyone is thinking of doing this style diffusor, these were a 'real bitch' to bend. We could barely get them bent in between the framed edges with 2 people. Mostly due to the height (8ft) and having to keep a consistent 'bend' the whole way up. |
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| | #79 |
| Gear addict Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 487
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Thx for the test on the dimmers. Was the dimmer causing extra rf at full on full off positions as well?
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| | #80 |
| Lives for gear | No problem... And that was the rf put off from one switch (nevermind how I have each room zoned into 3 switches each). I believe what you see is the rf at it's nastiest, which was approx halfway between off and full. If I recall, the noise increased (noticeably) even when I had the dimmer at it's furthest positions (off/full)
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| | #81 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2008 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,710
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i hope that furman is just being used for outlets. me personally I'll purchase anything other then furman from now on. beautiful build however!
__________________ Solo:http://randomlyassoertedangels.bandcamp.com/ Group:www.myspace.com/theygrowontrees Studio:http://www.myspace.com/populistrecording Label:??? i love you! soundcraft parts: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/gears...ml#post7125016 |
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| | #82 |
| Lives for gear | |
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| | #83 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2008 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,710
| Quote:
yes indeed. i won't support them after that. i spent good money on something i thought was power conditioning in my less informed years, lucky nothing bad had happened, but I'm not a fan of being duped. i sold everything furman i had. | |
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| | #84 |
| Lives for gear | Well now that I look, it does say "power conditioner" on it. But I'm really just using it as a "power strip'.
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| | #85 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2008 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,710
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well just be safe and don't rely on it to do anything other then be a power strip.
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| | #86 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 2,690
| What do you suggest that is reliable? I will be moving my entire studio into a home soon and don't have the means to get the electricity done properly for a studio. I will need to rely on a power conditioner.
__________________ Julian Ear Candy Studios www.earcandystudios.com It's the indian, not the arrow... |
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| | #87 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2008 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,710
| Quote:
Tripp lite is a good solution. there older models are relatively inexpensive. i actually found one in a thrift shop believe it or not. there local here in Chicago if i remember. there's a few other solutions available, but i went over to tripp lite. | |
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| | #88 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 2,690
| Awesome, thank you!! Any others folks? Is Monster just as bad as Furman?
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| | #89 |
| Lives for gear |
Great stuff!
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| | #90 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2008 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,710
| Quote:
the newer furman units do actually have a power transformer in the unit to do power conditioning. they still work, but when furman first made "power conditioning" units they didn't. you bought a pretty box of power outlets. that's my issue with them. i won't purchase another furman product. the reason i suggest tripp lite, is there usually cheaper then there counter parts on the used market, and pretty dependable. monster and furman come with the price of the big name. - a side note about monster cable, if you like what they do, take a look at gepco. you might find them to be cheaper for the same quality. mileage may vary from model to model. | |
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