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Basement control room to iso room buildout

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Old 19th May 2011   #1
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Basement control room to iso room buildout

Hi everyone,

another studio buildout. I hope this is of interest to some and it may give someone down the line some info to use in avoiding some problems. Its been pretty fun, except i'm towards the end of the project and its getting slow going.

The purpose of this build-out is to utilize the main basement area as the control room. The control room used to be in the living room on the first floor, but I can no longer do that.

The iso room is usually used as just an amp room and some small drums if really really needed. Since there will be ripping amplifiers in the room, the old cheap construction will not do anymore. The drywall was thin, there were airgaps and the door sucked a great deal.

My plan of attack is a double wall with double 5/8ths drywall on the new side with green glue in between the new drywall. The original iso room's side is one layer of 5/8ths. The door will go from one door to a double door system with about 3-4 feet of an airlock. I figured that would cut down the sound more.

My hope is that I will be able to do stuff from guitar tracking to vocals to anything else needed. Its a small space so its not meant to do anything big.

Here we go!

-George
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Old 19th May 2011   #2
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Original wall



Also original wall


Major Gaposis in original wall


Also Gaposis


Time to rip the old layer of drywall off


Old drywall off and old r11 insulation gone!



Meanwhile, in the room there was this cedar wood at the bottom because it used to be a closet. Replaced with drywall and sealed with green glue sealant.
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Old 19th May 2011   #3
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More off where the old cedar board was


A pic of outside the room looking in. The cedar wood would not have made a good acoustical barrier here!


Another look at it


The hole in the last pic has been plugged with more drywall and green glue sealant


I realized that having an airlock would have made turning on the lights anoying if the switch was still in the room, so I had to take out the drywall of interior room. that way I can replace with solid drywall in the interior and move the switch to the new outside (control room side wall)
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Old 19th May 2011   #4
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Footer of new wall has been installed


Footer has been extended all the way with a shorter piece. You can see some sealant at work in this pic


New wall is up!


Another look at how the new wall is spaced from the old wall


wasnt sure how to end the new wall. I figured that it would be better to contain the noise inside the wall with this sideways stud endcap instead of letting it hit the drywall or door frame that would end up capping this section


Bought a pre-hung door from the depot and was testing to see how it would look in this position


Another look at the 2nd door position


Door frame has been screwed into studs on the wall and the top of the door frame has been screwed into the ceiling via anchors. The rest of the airlock has been framed out.
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Old 19th May 2011   #5
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Just getting caught up....


The 1st door position has been moved out to fall inline with the newest wall. So I had to get in to add some more studs for new door


Trippple stud! That ought to do it!


Old drywall has been replaced over new stud layout


Quiet putty as been put around the one electrical box that punches into the iso room


The light switch has been relocated to the new wall side with this box configuration. This box setup is used so that it can extend through the double 5/8ths drywall that will end up being there.


Same thing with the one outlet on the new wall side


I wrapped the other boxes with quiet putty... with some extra so I can seal it around the first layer of new drywall. I am able to get to the boxes still because the old light switch location drywall strip (?!) is still not filled so I can push the quiet putty against the first layer of drywall after it has been installed. After that is done, I can finish that drywall strip in the iso room.
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Old 19th May 2011   #6
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Time to insulate! two layers of r13 or r-15, cant remember. haha!


Insulation has been installed.


starting the drywall proceedure. First piece of first layer


Second piece of first layer


First layer done. First piece of 2nd layer up


Oh yeah, here is the green glue on that first piece


Another shot of that


A shot of how the box turned out on the second layer


calculated 2.5in screws for double drywall
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Old 20th May 2011   #7
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Here is the 2nd piece on 2nd layer waiting to get green glued. Also, the drywall has been placed so that the seams dont line up. Mostly the first layer was horizontal and this second layer is mostly vertical seams.


Shazzaam, green glue


Kerpow! 2nd piece, 2nd layer is up


3rd piece, 2nd layer. It needed a cutout. Thats always a pain to make sure it works out.


Green glue! 2 tubes per sheet. Just a little side note, getting the green glue acoustical sealant on your hands or clothes is no big deal, but when you get green glue green glue on you its a bit more anoying. Keep that in mind.


2nd layer is complete!


As you can see here, that one strip of dywall has been put up first. Then, there is a double drywall situation with green glue in between. I decided to go with double drywall on the iso room side because there would be less room in the airlock side.


Airlock inside drywal done. Just one sheet of 5/8ths


Another shot of airlock.
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Old 20th May 2011   #8
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Green Glue Sealant

I didn't think that green glue really worked as an acoustic sealant, more a kind of substance that acted as a kind of way of cushioning layers, more like a goopy kind of neoprene or something? Or are you talking about another product from green glue? I thought I understood green glue but now I feel confused!

love

Freya
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Old 21st May 2011   #9
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Looking good man. Looks like you're making some great progress
-Rob
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Old 21st May 2011   #10
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Thanks rob!
Freya- the company green glue makes of course "green glue", but they also make an acoustical sealant. It appears to be just a latex sealant. I was going to go with normal sealant from home depot, but the average cost was about 5-6 for the small tube. Since the green glue sealant is over twice as much goop for the same price, and also it could be "acoustical", seemed like a no brainer.
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Old 21st May 2011   #11
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Ugh. Green Glue is horrid stuff to get on you. It's like the devils own snot.
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Old 21st May 2011   #12
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Originally Posted by wkbdgeorge View Post
Thanks rob!
Freya- the company green glue makes of course "green glue", but they also make an acoustical sealant. It appears to be just a latex sealant. I was going to go with normal sealant from home depot, but the average cost was about 5-6 for the small tube. Since the green glue sealant is over twice as much goop for the same price, and also it could be "acoustical", seemed like a no brainer.
Ah now I understand! Yes I saw the acoustic sealant in the green glue shop over here too! (UK) I totally understand where you are coming from about thinking of using a cheaper sealant. I have been eyeing up the sealant in the pound shop! However I came to the same decision as you that I might as well get a big tube of the stuff from the green glue shop. Having said that my own studio build is scrapped for the time being, as I got a bit ripped off by someone and can't make it work anymore economically. One day I will try again tho, so I'm going to watch your thread with interest because it sounds like you are trying to maximise results with minimal outlay! What I will be looking to do too!

love

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Old 21st May 2011   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilR View Post
Ugh. Green Glue is horrid stuff to get on you. It's like the devils own snot.
What does it do to you? Does it burn?

love

Freya
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Old 21st May 2011   #14
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Originally Posted by Freya View Post
What does it do to you? Does it burn?

love

Freya
It's sticky and never dries, plus it's difficult to get it to completely wash off. Makes a big difference using it in the assembly though!
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