Rotosonic Sound

[MJGreene Audio]

Just thought I would post some picts of my studio. Everyone here has been a great source of information. I finished this off November 1st of last year. Still waiting for funds to finish off the floors in Hardwood but its sounding great so far.

Thanks,
Michael Greene

[inlinenl]

wonderfull ....

[feral frequency]

Looking good Michael. Cant wait to stop by and see it in person.

[ryancork]

VERY nice. looks great!

[zwiebel]

Beautiful Colors! Congrats!

[MJGreene Audio]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the compliments. The room is working really well and sounds very nice.

Michael Greene

[greatgreatriver]

Love your room man!

[Colonel Blues]

Yes ! Those rounded wood diffusors give majesty to the room, and the colors choice set a nice cool mood inside !

[99zulu]

Very, very cool vibe there. I love it.

[elmolemon]

Originally Posted by Colonel Blues

Yes ! Those rounded wood diffusors give majesty to the room, and the colors choice set a nice cool mood inside !

I couldn't say it better! Nice room!

[El Nino]

Your room looks amazing. Choice of colors is right on! The rounded wood diffusers are just awesome! Do they sound as good as they look and would you care to share how you made them?

[MJGreene Audio]

Originally Posted by El Nino

Your room looks amazing. Choice of colors is right on! The rounded wood diffusers are just awesome! Do they sound as good as they look and would you care to share how you made them?

Thank you to everyone. The response from clients has been wonderful. I would be happy to share how I made them. Give me a few hours and I will post how I did them.

Michael Greene

[vespiz]

Originally Posted by MJGreene Audio

Thank you to everyone. The response from clients has been wonderful. I would be happy to share how I made them. Give me a few hours and I will post how I did them.

Michael Greene

Please do!

Love the B3, Rhodes and Wurly combo, there ..

[brightbyrd]

Beautiful!!! thumbsupthumbsup

[MJGreene Audio]

Originally Posted by vespiz

Please do!

Love the B3, Rhodes and Wurly combo, there ..

Thank you. Now if I can only find a nice 7 ft grand for a decent price.

Ok. Here is how I built the Poly's.

The backs are made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood. 1/2 thick. I used OSB if I remember correctly, but any sturdy non warping wood should work.

I then took 1x2's and set my table saw to just under a 45 degree angle and cut one edge of the 1x2's so that when mounted with the non cut side on the top, it creates a groove that the front panels will fit into. I did that to both sides. 1x2's 8 feet long mounted on the edge of the back panel.

With construction adhesive, I then used rolls of R-19 and glued them to the back panels leaving about 4-5 inches open on the sides. Basically the entire middle is covered with R-19. Any thicker insulation will work also. As long as it is filling and deadening the cavity inside once you put the front panels on.

Originally the front panels were going to be Luan panels that are 4x8 sheets. The problem I found was that Luan from different batches, and manufactures, tend to bend differently. The first two panels I built at home bent pretty well. Not easy but they went in with a little work. I then bought 4 more panels to make the units you see in the pictures, but when the time came to put them in the frames they would not bend. With an assistant we tried to bend them enough to get them to snap into the grooves. In the process we broke one panel and gave up on the idea. They would not work. The local Home Depots no longer had any of the older versions of Luan that would actually bend. Let me step back a moment. The reason for using Luan was to keep costs down. It looks decent, and is about $8-10 us dollars per panel. It didn't work obviously. In my frustration, I noticed a bunch of different types of plywood between 1/8 " and 1/4 " thick. They had some with a nice clean Maple face, Birch, and Oak. The Oak bent the best but they all bend much better than anything I had tried before. I chose Oak simply because I like the look. And as I go along and change out trim, and put in a wood floor, it will be cheaper and easier to find a large stock of Oak than the other hardwoods. (they all looked fantastic and would take stain very well. Its simply thin plywood with a finished face on one or both sides. I think I paid just under 30 US dollars a panel for the Oak. The Maple was about 40-45 US dollars a panel and at this point I was running out of construction money very quickly.

I started by putting one side into the groove and lining it up with the top and bottom. Then with the assembly laying on its side I was able to apply enough downward pressure to get the Oak panels to bow and bend enough that I could get them to snap into the groove on the other side. I then took a rubber mallet and gently tapped them on the out of square edges to get them to fit in perfectly.

The only issue with these other panels is that after time, the Oak keeps the curve that you bend them into, and with humidity and temperature, they will start to slip. I solved this by putting some window weather stripping into the grooves and then also screwing the edges of the oak into the frame. After its done it all looks good and isn't very obvious. You could also nail them in. Use a nail gun though, because using a hammer will lead to denting or splitting the panels.

I then measured from the floor the distance I wanted them mounted from the floor and cut 1x2's just under 4 feet for the top and bottom of the panels. I cut another set and mounted them on the back panel of the poly's at the top and bottom. Making sure the distance between the 1x2's on the poly's and the 1x2's on the wall were exactly the same. I drilled holes in the 1x2's that were going to go on the walls and mounted them onto the sheetrock with molly bolt style mounts. Put the molly's into the wall after marking where the holes were on the 1x2's. I used the Molly's that you screw in and as you screw in the screw it expands the back and causes it to suck the bolt assembly securely into the wall. Then you remove the main molly screw and feed it through the 1x2's and screw the 1x2 into the wall/molly bolt assembly.

Then with an assistant I lifted the poly's into place so that the 1x2 on the poly rested on top of the 1x2 on the wall. Then with the assistant holding the poly in place I used long screws to screw the two 1x2's together on the top and the bottom. This bolts them securely onto the wall. I then placed 4" pieces of 1x2 in the middle of the panel so that it didn't rattle or bend. In hind site I would have built 1x2's going from the top and bottom 1x2's about 4 inches in from the edges or even flush with the edges just to make them even more secure and solid. It doesn't really need it but it is another step and if I do ever get any strange rattles I will take them down and do that.

With my simple, almost ghetto design I can remove them at anytime if needed but keep the assembled poly's intact.

I then went back and made sure the insulation was properly touching the insides and ended up stuffing some additional insulation in there just to fill it up and to keep it from possibly developing any rattles.

Some poly designs use bulkheads inside. I have done it both ways and I don't know what difference it makes but I haven't noticed anything other than the massive time it takes to properly cut and install bulkheads inside.

I haven't capped the top or bottoms. If you have a scroll saw you could trace the cuts with a piece of 1x6 of 2x6 and make them very easy. With the way these are mounted you don't see the open bottom unless you were laying on your back and you certainly don't see the top of these since they end up being 10 1/2 feet in the air.

I am also sure it would change the Q of the bass absorption if they were capped but as I said before. The sound fine. They break up the sound great, and they seem to absorb some bass in the room. One thing I know for sure is the room sounds much smoother with them in place.

I hope I am making sense. If you have any questions I am happy to try an answer them.

Thanks again for looking and for all the compliments.

Michael Greene

[vespiz]

[Colonel Blues]

Thank you Michael, for all these complete explanations !