Hypex amp question

[Strut78]

Originally Posted by rondr

The case looks very nice. Do you have a way of measuring the running temperature?

If you check out the specs on the ncore the base of the amp is a heat sink and it supposedly doesn't need extra cooling, with that said I used some thermal compound to ensure there was good conduction between the heat sink and the enclosure. The chassis maybe reaches a few degrees above room temperature at the moment, I am not measuring a direct temperature, but is not any warmer than any of my other gear.

[Riccardo]

Thanks or the pictures. No on/off switch next to the mains iEC receptacle unless I am missing something...

Regarding PMC placement that is a common occurrence having heard both small and big ones in different sized rooms I concur, stating they are forgiving regarding placement is a tad optimistic, it takes a good bit of time finding the best spot.

[Strut78]

Originally Posted by Riccardo

Thanks or the pictures. No on/off switch next to the mains iEC receptacle unless I am missing something...

There is no on off switch, it really doesn't seem that it is needed. The ncore module and psu under go a microprocessor controlled soft start before powering on.

There is the nampon line that comes from the ncore module, this is the thin black wire that is tied to the earthed mount on the psu. This needs to be earthed for the amp to come out of standby, so I may end up adding a switch on this to power down the amp module and put the amp in standby, but I initially wanted to keep this as simple as possible for the initial build and then add/tweak the amp in the coming months.

[talon]

Thanks for the reply Strut.

I'll definitely be taking measurements as I have in the past of the room response. I'll try in the same position as my current speakers and go from there.

BTW, just bought this switch from Altronics today for my amp build before it arrives:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=S0937

[talon]

So I got all my bits yesterday (amp modules, amp case and even the speakers arrived too!).

Really sux I can't do anything at the moment as I need a tool to cut out XLR holes in the case. :( I've ordered a Q-Max from the UK, another week or so wait! *sigh*

Strut: got a 24mm XLR hole punch I could borrrow? :p

[edwinhurwitz]

Is there a US distributor for the amp modules?

TIA

[Strut78]

I believe the modules are only available through their website, they seem to want to have these only available to the DIY market so dealing direct would keep costs down.

@talon sorry no 24mm punch for xlr sockets, I was lucky enough to buy my chassis pre drilled. Good luck wi the build!

[talon]

No problem man, got a place in Myaree to drill them for me for cheap.

Nearly finished my build, pics up soon!

BTW, I've seen some hypex stuff on eBay but I would be weary of ordering elsewhere besides direct from Hypex.

Anyone know the pin out for the J5 header for the SMPS boards? Hypex site is down so can't grab any docs. :s

[talon]

Just finished my amp, pretty happy with it but yet to hear it. I have a brand new pair of TB2S+'s sitting in the box so looking forward to the weekend!

Pics:

[Red Mastering]

Originally Posted by talon

Just finished my amp, pretty happy with it but yet to hear it. I have a brand new pair of TB2S+'s sitting in the box so looking forward to the weekend!

Pics:

very nice!
give hypex few days to break in
you will notice better details and separation

[Greg Reierson]

Looks great. You have enough heat sink for 10 modules

[talon]

Thanks guys, e yeah bit of overkill on the heatsinks but good since the enclosure is very compact. If I do upgrade later on, I could just build an identical amp and bi-amp each driver in the speaker.

[chopstickkk]

Great looking build.

You're going to have to show us what those stepped pots are destined for too!

[talon]

Thanks! Very happy with it, been running in the new speakers for a few hours now and amp isn't even breaking a sweat, still cooler than ambient temp!

Very impressive for a sub $500 build!

[Jens Eklund]

Originally Posted by Red Mastering

give hypex few days to break in
you will notice better details and separation

“Break in”, what do you mean? It´s an amplifier.

Even speakers don’t generally* need “break in” except for possibly the first few seconds it takes to loosen up the spider and surround of the drivers. The most common cause for different behavior of drivers measured after excessive “break in” is due to temperature increase that effect the behavior of the driver but as soon as it cools down, it reverts to normal:

http://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&...VCe9tQ&cad=rja


I think the only thing in need of ”break-in” is the glass covering the myth-extinguisher



* EDIT: I guess there might me exeptions for ceirtan woofers.

[Bob Olhsson]

Actually speakers do break in and each driver's resonant frequency shifts. The higher end systems are broken in prior to running their final QC tests. Capacitors also measurably break in over time. There's plenty of mysticism around the subject but there is also some real measurable physics involved.

[Jens Eklund]

Originally Posted by Bob Olhsson

Actually speakers do break in and each driver's resonant frequency shifts. The higher end systems are broken in prior to running their final QC tests. Capacitors also measurably break in over time. There's plenty of mysticism around the subject but there is also some real measurable physics involved.

I can partly agree on drivers can be effected (fc, qts and Vas etc. parameters, although the difference in usually small and often related to heat), but amps, really? Can you please direct me to some papers that can confirm audible (one can naturally measure extreme small variations but audible?) effect from "break in" for amps? Perhaps it´s the same thing here as with drivers; caps and other components get warmer and thus might change properties but will undoubtedly revert to normal once cooled down (and assumed not damaged due to heat passed their rating (normally 85-105 deg. Celsius for caps).

[Red Mastering]

opamps actually

[Jens Eklund]

Originally Posted by Red Mastering

opamps actually

Interesting. Any links?

[Llitsor]

Im not sure about running in an amp.. But my PMC TB2's took quite a bit of running in. Mine sounded pretty horrendous for the first few days. I don't believe this is the case with all monitors, but PMC's seem to be fairly well known for that..

[rondr]

Can anyone here provide a link in reference to "burn-in" that states after this so called process has run it's length the product actually sounded like crap?

[talon]

Originally Posted by Llitsor

Im not sure about running in an amp.. But my PMC TB2's took quite a bit of running in. Mine sounded pretty horrendous for the first few days. I don't believe this is the case with all monitors, but PMC's seem to be fairly well known for that..

How long would you say it took? I've been running mine in over the past couple of days and haven't noticed much change just yet, although I've been moving them around a fair bit to find the right spot.

[Greg Reierson]

Moving them will make a bigger difference. They're probably broken in by now.

I'm skeptical of Hypex needing run-in time. Maybe the caps in a linear supply. Mine was golden from day one.

[talon]

Yeah I suspected as much, I've found a good placement for them now though, so it's all grins from here on.

[Llitsor]

Originally Posted by talon

How long would you say it took? I've been running mine in over the past couple of days and haven't noticed much change just yet, although I've been moving them around a fair bit to find the right spot.

It was a couple of years ago now. But I recall it taking a good few days. However, I realised I had been using them rather quietly to begin with. Once I gave them a good pounding, they straightened out quickly enough
(And yes, they are picky about positioning..)

[talon]

Yeah they've gone through a bit of a pounding already e. I need more traps though, there's a decent 150hz peak I can't get rid of just yet. The rest of the range is very workable.

[Bilou]

Focal speakers (and especially SM9) really need some break in time. About 60hours, which is pretty long. Put of the box, they sound really strange (but not in a good way). Mid and even more Low end is really really better after some hours.

But it's not true for all manufacturers. Focal is using really rigid membranes for their speakers.

[rondr]

I received the ncore parts yesterday and spent a couple of hours laying out and drilling the holes. Took a break for the Dylan/Knopfler concert last night and back to the small bit of wiring this morning. Plugged it in, flipped the switch and really nice sound. Amazing! I'm not so sure you could call it DIY though, maybe assemble everything in your own box might describe it best. Iv'e had it on all day and the aluminum heat sink on the power supply runs a little hot to the touch.

[siamhatter]

I have a question about these amps. I am thinking of getting a pair pmc tb2 but I also thought to get an older pair of B&W matrix 801 or 802. Is it possible to build a stereo amp that runs both with an A/B output? So I could keep costs low and could both speaker sets. The other question would be which modules I choose.
I am quite new here and help is very appreciated.

[AlexK]

If you can go for the UCD700, then do. The more headroom the better.

UCD400s will be enough with the TB2s (my UCD400 based amp was originally built to power TB2s), but the Matrix 801s and 802s are power hungry and that extra power will help when listening at higher levels.

Go for x2 mono modules with a linear power supply, and over-spec the PSU if possible. I have the UCD700 transformer with my UCD400 H+R softstart amp and it's superb. Powering ATCs here.