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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Building new home, mostly studio, what type of building is best? | FOURTHTUNZ | High end | 0 | 29th March 2006 03:31 PM |
| gutting a shipping pallete & making acoustic baffles | SoundCampaign | So much gear, so little time! | 5 | 3rd October 2005 12:41 PM |
| Anyone building their own doors? | bongo | So much gear, so little time! | 3 | 18th February 2005 06:12 AM |
| Studio gobos/portable baffles | Lowdbrent | High end | 1 | 8th March 2004 02:10 AM |
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| | #1 |
| Gear interested Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Washington DC
Posts: 19
| Hey everyone! Great site! My band mates were thinking of building a few free-standing baffles from sold core, or hollow core doors for some isolation between instruments??? I thought that I remembered reading something about this on how this was done, but I cant seem to find the article. We were thinking of using a 30x80" door, and attach some 2x4 rigid fiberglass panel to one side of the door, and then attach some wheels to the bottom. Has anyone ever built a baffle from either a solid or hollow core door? Did anyone read that article, and do you think that something like this would work for isolation, or separation? Cheers everyone! |
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| | #2 |
| Gear nut Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 87
| A studio near here wound up with a couple of extra solid core doors in their construction process, and are planning on turning them into gobos, kinda like you describe. They were already cut for windows, and will nicely match the rest of the woodwork. In my exprience, for a good gobo, you want it to be massive and nonresonant. You want to make it very hard for sound to go through the thing, and not have it "hum along" with whatever's behind it. Solid core doors are the winners by far in those regards. Do you have a good used-building-materials place around? |
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,919
| Do you have a circular saw? 30” isn’t high enough, so cut the doors in half so that they’ll be 40” high and 30” wide. Get a piece of 3/4 inch plywood. Cut 2 strips 40” by 8” and 2 strips 31 & 1/2” by 8” (per half-door). Glue/screw the 40” pieces on the sides of the door, centered, and the 31 & 1/2” pieces on the top and bottom. Now you can put flat-mount casters on the bottom of the plywood and roll the things around. There will be a gap between the bottom of the baffle and the floor, which, if you’re concerned about it, you could fill by adding a 2X4 on edge under the plywood, using 3” deck screws from the top side. Then you could fill one side of the baffle with fiberglass and cover with burlap, and put sonex foam or something on the other side, and your players would have a nice 8” wide shelf to spill their beers on. Depending on how you finish the plywood - natural wood stain or flat black spray paint - you could probably raise your studio rates accordingly. But this is a lot of work. Hopefully, someone else has a better idea, cause I'm just winging it here. |
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| | #4 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,636
| I don't think the cost and weight of solid doors is justified. 3/4" plywood should be fine. Sound finds the weakest link, and unless you are building an airtight box, mass is defeated because the sound just takes the next easiest route. (Most doors are hollow with thin plywood anyway). But if you already own them, why not. |
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| | #5 |
| Gear Head Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 43
| You should use sand bags draped with egg cartons and then thin cotton blankets over that, this will musically baffle most frequencies including Kenneths. |
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| | #6 |
| Gear interested Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Washington DC
Posts: 19
| Thanks everyone for all the great ideas! ![]() |
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