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| | #1 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Hamburg
Posts: 1,222
Thread Starter | Foam
hi there, i just recently bought a lot of foam to put into my basement. how can i fix it i tried everything, nothing sticks to the wall, any advice? |
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| | #2 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Hamburg
Posts: 1,222
Thread Starter |
this is what i am talkin bout'
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Hamburg
Posts: 1,222
Thread Starter |
yo randall, fast one thanks |
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| | #4 |
| Gear interested Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 17
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Use liquid nails. You need glue thats gel like and dries super hard to get the best grip on the foam and rather quick so that your hand doesnt get tired. Using glue that is absorbed by the foam, starts to brittle up quickly thru time when dried and is easily peeled off from my experience. Contact adhesive in a tube or can is not bad, the real slimy style glue for rubbers and plastics. If its on a plasterboard wall that is vertical, then use small nails or staple gun that is adjusted not to staple all the way in. I find using glue is a real pain when you have to move places and have to restore the room to its original look. Small nails or staple holes are easy to putty up and you only need like 6 to a sheet to support it.
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| | #5 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,818
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Be aware that inexpensive foam is VERY flammable. Take a small piece of your foam out to the driveway and see how it behaves when you take a cig. lighter to it. http://mixonline.com/design/applications/audio_ashes/ Bri |
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| | #6 | |
| Gear addict Joined: Oct 2002 Location: Chicago
Posts: 363
| Quote:
find out if you can take it back to where you bought it from and get a refund..... I had a lot of foam that I used in a basement studio also....I used 3M adhesive from an art store....It mounted the foam squares to the wall just great.... The only problem is, it only addressed a part of how the room needed to be treated.....it never addressed the massive bass build up in the corners of the room...the only thing it helped with was the listening reflection points, above and to the sides of the listening area.... bass traps with fiberglass panels covered in acoustically transparent fabric placed in the corners and at the reflection points is money better spent.... | |
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| | #7 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2002 Location: BELGICA, THE FLANDERS, VENICE OF THE NORTH !
Posts: 996
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note to use a protection mask when glueing (you know the little white ones painters use ), I did my inside roof with this foam not using a mask and i was high for a week. O and dont buy the cheap ones, and for the glue I used Rectavit (verry stikky, smelly and difficult to spread out ) so make sure you put the foam on the right spot straight away, they dont come off easy without damaging them. good luck
__________________ Everybody knows that's what aliens sound like - Dr. Bob Moog |
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| | #8 |
| Gear addict Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Belgium-Spain-Belgium-Spain
Posts: 344
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how about the foam and other acoustic treatment material they sell at Thomann.de ?? they seem pretty cheap. Im planning on buying some foam to diminish speaker reflections. Anyone used these with succes? And could this foam be usefull for a 'vocal corner'?? Regards, bram |
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| | #9 |
| Gear Guru Joined: Oct 2002 Location: New Milford, CT, USA
Posts: 12,334
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Randall, > www.foambymail.com/Products.html < I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's been proven beyond doubt that FBM sells cheap non-acoustic foam, and they faked the data on their site. I measured FBM corner foam in a lab and it was about 1/3 as effective as claimed. --Ethan
__________________ Ethan's audio book is now available! |
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| | #10 | |
| Gear addict Joined: Oct 2002 Location: Chicago
Posts: 363
| Quote:
I could see where FBM panels to control side reflections from the monitors would work, but I've tried bookcases, curtains, packing blankets, etc and it worked just as well.... | |
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| | #11 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Hamburg
Posts: 1,222
Thread Starter |
any other thought on how i can fix them to the wall?
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| | #12 |
| Gear maniac Joined: May 2003 Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 171
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How much did you spend? Because I talked to Ethan a few months back and took a crash course on his site and a couple of other sites and made my own traps based on what I read and saw on different sites. Man listen up. You have no idea how much it really helps. My vocal booth was covered in foam and when I treated my control room with my absorbers I found out how crappy my vocals really sound. I made my panels for about $50.00 each and that's with them being framed (which some people say is not as effective as having the wood off the outside but hey)....The foam is not the way to go...trust me. The beauty about these is that you can take them down and move to another place and put them up with NO Problem.
__________________ I like it phat and round! |
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| | #13 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Hamburg
Posts: 1,222
Thread Starter |
i spend 140 Euros for 32 panels, each beeing 2 square meters in size and 10 centimeters thick.
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| | #14 | |
| Moderator Joined: Sep 2003 Location: Belgium
Posts: 4,347
| Quote:
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| | #15 |
| Gear Guru Joined: Oct 2002 Location: New Milford, CT, USA
Posts: 12,334
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Randall, > I've head many people rave about your products < Also, just to be perfectly clear, my intent is not to bash a competitor. (Not that Foam by Mail even sells to the same market as my company.) But I think it's important to expose outright fraud, which is the case with these guys. --Ethan |
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| | #16 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Apr 2005 Location: Wailuku, Maui, Hi
Posts: 1,048
| 3M 90 High Strength Spray Adhesive
I installed a bunch of Auralex stuff recently, and for the big heavy pieces I had good success with 3M 90 High Strength Spray Adhesive. We first tried some other brand stuff and the lighter duty 3M from the local hardware store, and the foam would come back down in a day or two. The 90 is expensive, and gets used up rapidly, but it works. I couldn't figure our how to successfully use the stuff in tubes that Auralex sent us.
__________________ Aloha, Jonathan Starr Big Gorilla Sound Twixt reef & jungle Wailuku, Maui |
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| | #17 |
| Jai guru deva om Joined: Feb 2003 Location: South Carolina
Posts: 12,253
| Nail Power Paneling & Mold from Lowes does the trick nicely for mounting foam. War |
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| | #18 | |
| Gear nut Joined: Oct 2006 Location: New York City
Posts: 103
| Quote:
And, as you mention, their LENRD knockoffs also didn't scratch the surface of what a bass trap is supposed to do. Alexi . . . I really hate to say it (since you've already dropped the cash on this), but, for a number of reasons, you may want to consider seeing if you can return this if it is not proper foam, instead of permanently gluing it to your walls. For starters, even if this foam is somewhat effective at some frequencies, if you are absorbing lots of highs and mids, and don't have any low frequency absorption, you may end up with an unbalanced, and even muddy sound . . . especially since you are in a room that has concrete walls and floors. Concrete doesn't offer any transmission loss (or natural absorption) like walls made of sheet rock and/or other less dense materials -- at least not until you get into the frequency range below 10 Hz. So it's going to be throwing EVERYTHING back at you full force. You really need broadband/bass traps in there -- not just high and mid frequency absorption. And I'd say the same thing even if you bought proper foam panels from a reputable manufacturer. You would really be SO much better off getting some OC 703 or the Rockwool equivalent and throwing together some simple broadband absorption panels. For the same amount of money you spent on the cheap foam, you could have an exponentially better and more balanced sounding room. There are ways to get decent acoustic treatment without it having to cost you the earth . . . cheap foam (i.e., that is not properly designed and tested acoustic foam) is not one of those ways. This is not to say that ALL inexpensive foam is not proper acoustic foam. But I would not buy foam from any manufacturer who cannot supply you with proper ASTM-certified C423 lab reports to verify that the foam has been properly tested, and that the test results they are giving are ACTUAL, and not just copied from the Auralex site, or pulled out of somebody's . . . errm . . . you get the idea. ![]() As Ethan said, this isn't about bashing a competitor or trying to convince you to buy products that we manufacture. I'd just rather see you get a BALANCED acoustic treatment in your room the first time, rather than wasting money and learning the hard way (not to mention trying to get that glue off the walls later!). Believe me -- it will make more difference to your sound (both for monitoring and for your recorded sound) than upgrading your monitors and other shiny boxes.
__________________ http://www.realtraps.com/ | |
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| | #19 |
| Gear interested Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 26
| HOWEVER, Foam, even the cheapest foam makes A FANTASTIC FIBER BARRIER, for rigid fiberglass board and or mineral wool, which is what you need for acceptable broadband absorption,.... and as a barrier, it has that "Studio Eye Candy" appeal to boot. Here is the FREE RECIPE folks for a typical 48"x24" WEENIE TRAP: 3 sheets of 48"x24"x1" thick Rigid Fiberglass (i.e. OC 703 or Rolux 60) COST = $25 ave. 3 sheets of 48" x 24" x 1" the foam of your choice ( I like the wedge style) COST = $18 4 little 1" x 1" wood blocks COST = seriously? 4 screws COST = .25 cents,.. if that. 1 tube adhesive COST = Free from most foam houses with order 1 pair of scissors COST = You already own them Sandwich the rigid boards together. Face with the foam of your choice (Front and Back) Cover all exposed edges with "foam strips" cut from sheet #3 Attach 1" wood spacers Attach to wall with screws leaving 1" air gap Total Cost is under $45.00,.... keep $150.00, plus shipping in your pocket each and every time you build a "WEENIE TRAP" Enjoy!, Eatin Weenies
__________________ COMMON SENSE is a FREE but SCARCE commodity |
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