Upgrading from Aardvark - MOTU/RME

[I <3 The Beatle]

Actually when you go 1/4 inch line in it is a direct signal, the Aardvark pre is not involved.

Maybe take a look at the Fireface for an upgrade

[natpub]

The Aardvark and MOTU units are roughly equivilant, yes. If you are just trying to get out of the Aardvarks and into something with an operating company, and are not trying to make any significant upgrade in sound, then you should be fine. The Fireface is also going to be more or less in the same ballpark.

I dunno that I see the sense in your plan, but there it is.

[McPhaul]

Originally Posted by I <3 The Beatle

Actually when you go 1/4 inch line in it is a direct signal, the Aardvark pre is not involved.

Maybe take a look at the Fireface for an upgrade

The Aardvark stuff does color the sound even going into the 1/4". You also have to choke down your levels and turn the Aardvark inputs as low as they will go to keep from clipping. The Aardvark units were fine for me until I started getting ourboard pres, now they really don't shine.

Originally Posted by natpub

If you are just trying to get out of the Aardvarks and into something with an operating company, and are not trying to make any significant upgrade in sound, then you should be fine.

I dunno that I see the sense in your plan, but there it is.

I have also had sync troubles out of the Aardvarks. I have started a sesion with both units sync'd well only to not be able to use the outputs from the 24/96 due to it having lost sync and those tracks being unusable. They work great separately but not well together. I would also like to get away from the PCI cards. I only have 3 slots and 1 is wireless and 2 are now Aardvark.

I have not used either the MOTU or RME and really don't know if I would just be going from the frying pan to the fire if I made the trade. That is why I have asked the questions here. THe MOTU piece would give 2 less analog unputs but add ADAT in's. But if it is not as good as what I have I need to stay with the Aardvark stuff.

Maybe I just need a gear fix.

Thanks
Will

[I <3 The Beatle]

Originally Posted by McPhaul

The Aardvark stuff does color the sound even going into the 1/4". You also have to choke down your levels and turn the Aardvark inputs as low as they will go to keep from clipping. The Aardvark units were fine for me until I started getting ourboard pres, now they really don't shine.

When Aardvark was still in business they assured my that if the gain is set to 0 (line level), the mic pre has nothing to do with the signal. Then again, companies aren't always truthful.

I am pretty sure that's how it works, kind of like the Presonus Firepod.


Maybe you can look into a 2 channel convertor and go SPDIF into the Vark. That'd save you some money, and you could possibly get something higher quality.

Off the top of my head I am thinking the Mini Me or the RME ADI-2 (which I think is only about $500). I haven't used either unit, but run a search and do some research on them. For $1500 I am sure you can get a great 2 channel converter though.

Good luck thumbsup

[Elsteve9]

Also, you can use the TRS inputs on the first 4 channels. That's how I patch my external pre's in. (I had to custom make the cables to do so, but it patches in AFTER the preamps, line level, or mic level.)

Test this, and see if you think the sound is different.


-Stephen

[McPhaul]

Originally Posted by Elsteve9

Also, you can use the TRS inputs on the first 4 channels. That's how I patch my external pre's in. (I had to custom make the cables to do so, but it patches in AFTER the preamps, line level, or mic level.)

Test this, and see if you think the sound is different.


-Stephen

Stephen thanks, I have been doing this with a Y cable out from the TRS send/return to my patchbay and XLR to an Audio-Technica transformer to get down to unbalanced from the API but the signal is always very very low. Going in from the front the signal is always to hot but this way is very low. I can't figure out the problem and thought that it may not be made to work in this manner. Are you going in balanced or unbalanced? How is your signal level?

Thanks
Will

[Elsteve9]

I am using an Aphex 207 external pre. If I remembercorrectly (it has been wired up for a long time...) I use the unbalanced output of the 207 into a modified TRS tip. (But your TRS cable idea should work, assuming you're using the right side of the cable.)
If you have an unbalanced out of the API, use that. If not, you don't need the transformer. Make a cable that connects the hot output of the mic cable to the tip of a 1/4" cable. Of course, connect the - on the mic cable to the sleeve of the 1/4" cable.
Then, you can plug it easily into the patch bay.

-Stephen

[StrykeBack]

Hi guys, I've been away a while from the gearslutz here. after using my aardvark q10 for a couple years now the company is deceased, its in need of new drivers, and i'm having issues with all of the inputs dissapearing in cubase except for 1 and 2.

Time for an upgrade. The RME fireface looks rocksolid but I'm never going to use the Adat inputs and that might be a waste for teh money. Right now i record directly into a custom built pc with cubase sx2 with my aardvark q10 and FMR rnp and rnc.

Not exactly top of the line stuff :(

Did anybody think to try the presonus firepod to replace the aardvark? I'm kinda strapped for cash and was going to upgrade my whole setup after recording school was done next year, but i'm busy with a band right now thats already been signed and the label has me re recording their album and mixing it. Need a new setup fast. thinking of just buying 1 or maybe 2 presonus firepods and being done with it for a while. what do you guys think of the pres?

[Pohaku]

I have a Q10 and use the inserts for outboard preamps. The balanced preamps work fine with TRS cables. Then I got a Pendulum MDP-1 which is unbalanced out. Had the same problem as the OP with really low level. Dropped an e-mail to Pendulum at 2 a.m. and got a 6:30 a.m. response back from Greg Gualtieri (owner and designer) -- how cool is that -- amazing! After a little back and forth we figured it out. At any rate, the shortcut fix is to take an insert cable and insert the TRS end in the Q10 insert point and the "ring" connector into the preamp. You can fuss with custom cables later. Works great and avoids the Q10 preamps. Only downside is that you only have 4 inserts, so if you need more than that for tracking with outboard preamps, you will need another solution. I suppose that ultimately I will end up looking at Lynx as a replacement, but I'm in no hurry for what I do.

Any any rate I'll add that service from Pendulum and Greg Gualtieri is just phenomenal!

[bobby yarrow]

I used aardvark cards when they were in business, and actually never managed to get my 2 cards working together right.

Been very pleased with my multiface in terms of stability. Currently I'm having a problem with it, but any soundcard can break . . .

[cultureofgreed]

I got a 002R to replace my Q10. I decided not to sell my Q10 because the value on ebay has dropped too low to sell it. Instead I built another PC and am using the Q10 as a Giga Box. Seems to be working fairly well.