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Old 12th April 2007, 01:29 PM   #1
Opie Taylor
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Yet Another Bass Trap Thread

I was surfing the net and found a guy using light weight steal angle (bead) to frame out a bass trap. He attached them with pop rivets. I really liked this idea. It doesn't make the traps no bigger than they need to and it shouldn't be very heavy.

My question..... Have any of you sluts tried this? or looked into it? Is this light weight angle expensive and where can you get it?

cheers, opie
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Old 12th April 2007, 01:50 PM   #2
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Actually, I've seen guys just use metal drywall corner bead. Works pretty well if you can get the corners rounded so it doesn't snag the fabric.

Bryan
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Old 12th April 2007, 05:04 PM   #3
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Actually, I've seen guys just use metal drywall corner bead. Works pretty well if you can get the corners rounded so it doesn't snag the fabric.

Bryan
Thank you. I went to lowes and check it out. Only 1.75 for a 10' peice. That's cheaper than dirt.

A heap thanks, OT
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Old 13th April 2007, 11:34 AM   #4
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No prob - glad to help. Just test it out first - you may need to put a cross brace in the middle depending on how you're going to cover it.

Bryan
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Old 13th April 2007, 04:51 PM   #5
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Or, you can try these: Acoustic Frames
I hear folks LOVE them.
I have a pile of their stuff and am going to retro fit my existing ones with these. I could just buy the frames and use my own fabric though. Sounds easy and cool either way.
yet-another-bass-trap-thread-chameleon-acoustic-frame-header.jpg

Cheers.

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Old 13th April 2007, 07:40 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bigbubbaj View Post
Or, you can try these: Acoustic Frames
I hear folks LOVE them.
I have a pile of their stuff and am going to retro fit my existing ones with these. I could just buy the frames and use my own fabric though. Sounds easy and cool either way.
Attachment 34052

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I just ordered 5 of them for my bass traps.
thanks for the link.
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Old 16th April 2007, 02:19 AM   #7
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I just ordered 5 of them for my bass traps.
thanks for the link.


Thanks brother!



Cheers!



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Old 16th April 2007, 03:03 AM   #8
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what about there already made ones are they any good thinking about buying a few for my room. They have a cool set of examples on how to set up your room and its not that bad on prices. One question though if you check there home studio pics they only use there bass traps all over why is that is it there high frequency ones any good,they dont think its needed, because wouldnt a whole lot of basstraps make the room sound dead. Anybody have a setup using there stuff how does the room sound because its like they dont even have sound diffusers its kinda built into the traps. Wannt to get a setup and put it like the example pics but instead of the side one being bass traps make them high frequency ones. Heres the link below so you can get an idea and click on the pics to make them bigger.

https://www.readyacoustics.com/index...oom&roomid=br1
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Old 16th April 2007, 03:05 AM   #9
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bpape hows gik acoustics do you have there stuff in your studio.
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Old 16th April 2007, 03:51 AM   #10
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i have 8 gik traps in my small room plus i have 4 more from another dude and i have a 4 4 4 on the ceiling i bilt myself and a bunch of foam all over the walls too i think the gik traps are werth the money and u can never make them as good for the same money ever if you want some nice bags to put your own 703 in you can look at readyacoustics. com or someones grandma can knit you a few for free that would save some money and we all need to save some money and i think that is a good idea remember versatile a dead room is a safe and usually a very good sounding room but most dont ever get to the point where there room is really dead sounding because it takes some money and effort to get there and they want mics and preamps and other toys that has been my findings on many people but they dont realize that the bedroom living room sounds like doo-doo
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Old 16th April 2007, 04:29 PM   #11
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cool i get what you guys are saying i have an idea of what im going to do. Really i just want my treatment to make my recordings sound better they dont have to be perfect because nothing is perfect and i want that when i enter the room i can hear the difference in silence and evrything. One more thing i have 2 windows in my room how would that affect. one on the right sode and one on the back wall.
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Old 17th April 2007, 03:21 AM   #12
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snip...

One question though if you check there home studio pics they only use there bass traps all over why is that is it there high frequency ones any good,they dont think its needed,

snip...

Heres the link below so you can get an idea and click on the pics to make them bigger.

https://www.readyacoustics.com/index...oom&roomid=br1
Howdy:

Our RT422 "High Frequency" panels are just like every one else's 2" thick porous absorber panels [either DIY or commercially manufactured, either mineral fiber core or foam]... in that all such thin panels do not absorb low frequency sound... thus the use of the term "High Frequency".

The most challenging element of acoustically treating a small room [less than 7,000 cubic feet – smaller than a room on the order of 35’x20’x10’], is taming low frequency resonances… and to do that efficiently you need a panel that is a minimum of 4” thick.

Another challenge in room treatment planning is to not over treat the room and leave it too “dead”. The tendency to over absorb rooms is exacerbated when people use thin absorbers such as 2” thick panels as part of their acoustic treatments in small rooms. Thin absorbers will absorb high frequencies effectively, but have little beneficial effect for low frequency control. If thin absorbers are used in a small room then one can over absorb the high frequency sparkle from a room and still have a muddy low end having done not enough to relieve the boominess that arises from low modal density.

By using all thick panels [at least 4” thick], one may be assured all of the absorptive panels will contribute to controlling the low frequencies, and as a result you can be adding beneficial treatment against the negative of low modal density [which is the main cause of “muddy”, “boomy” low end response] while addressing other issues such as early reflections. In essence all of your panels are doing double duty, and thus you may end up using fewer panels overall.

Fewer panels mean more reverb field strength is left in the room and this is a good thing. Neither modal resonances, nor early reflections are bad things for a listening environment in all ways, or at all levels. A great sounding room controls these acoustic artifacts as needed but does not remove them from the environment. The reverberant field is critical to the lushness of sound, and early reflections have postive benefits such as enhancing speech intelligibility and the richness of the sound stage created by the stereo image.

A rational acoustic treatment plan seeks to preserve room resonances and reflections as much as possible while at the same time assuring they do not dominate the listening experience.

Also fewer panels mean you spend less money. We will be happy to sell you a very effective high frequency absorption panel if you are sure that is what you need… but there is a very good chance it is not what you need… they rarely make sense in a small room.

I hope that helps.
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Old 17th April 2007, 03:56 PM   #13
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all such thin panels do not absorb low frequency sound... thus the use of the term "High Frequency".
Just to clarify, a lack of bass absorption is not the same thing as being effective at high frequencies. I've seen panels that are too thin to absorb bass well, but are also too reflective to absorb mids and highs well. The "High Frequency" style panels RealTraps sells are designed specifically to absorb as much as possible at mid and high frequencies. This is critical when used at first reflection points on the side walls and ceiling.

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Old 17th April 2007, 09:10 PM   #14
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Any meduim weight mineral fiber panel 2" thick will absorb mids and highs with great efficiency... its a trivial matter. The most commonly mentioned materials in acoustic realms are Owens Corning 700 series boards and mineral wool products such as Roxul - either of these materials or for that matter anything similar will work just fine. Avoid anything with a foil or paper scrim such as the FRK products in the list below and you'll be fine.

*data from: http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
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Old 17th April 2007, 09:20 PM   #15
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I've found that the most important thing for monitoring is to try and use absorption that has a flat frequency response so as to not adversely affect the early reflection spectrum of the room.
Because early reflections fuse perceptually with direct sound, we can hear them as being a coloration in the frequency balance of the direct sound.

Pegboard over 4" rigid industrial furnace insulation works very well for not a whole lot of money.
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Old 17th April 2007, 09:43 PM   #16
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ok now i am lost so i go with no high frequency traps and just bass traps or do i go with booth. id like to hear both sides because i am planning on buying from realtraps or ready acoustics, so id like to know whats best for me.
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Old 17th April 2007, 09:52 PM   #17
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one more thing i can take pictures of the room if you guys want and post up here right away. Ethan If i go with realtraps what should i pick mondo traps micro traps etc and Scot if i go with ready acoustics what should i pic broadband bass trapsonly or a mix, the super sub trap is out of the question.
Ethan not really sure on the prices on the website it says like 199.99 each then it says 1-9 pieces, does this mean it comes with 9 pieces or what. Thanks for your help both you guys, ery much appreciated.
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Old 17th April 2007, 09:53 PM   #18
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I'd suggest you contact both firms, provide details of your needs and the the room in question - get proposals based on these details, and make an informed decision.

You might want to also contact some other firms... GIK and Auralex come to mind... and also consider building treatments verus buying factory made units... it pays to shop.
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Old 17th April 2007, 10:00 PM   #19
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also would like to get glen kuras in here about gik acoustics and there prices are decent. I am just trying to get that good sound doesnt have to be perfect butt i have to notice a good difference just from walking in the room i want to here a nice silence like in most studios and get that nice sound to the room when mixing.
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Old 17th April 2007, 10:05 PM   #20
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ive checked about building and like it comes ou to similar prices on some stuff not all companies some are more expensive buying. i guess il be contacting before making the decision.
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Old 18th April 2007, 11:17 AM   #21
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also would like to get glen kuras in here about gik acoustics and there prices are decent. I am just trying to get that good sound doesnt have to be perfect butt i have to notice a good difference just from walking in the room i want to here a nice silence like in most studios and get that nice sound to the room when mixing.

If you would like send us the details of your room and we can take a look. There really is no one solution for all rooms and takes a balance of different products to get the best sound. If you are buying from us we can walk you through this A to Z.
If building your own I would either go with 4" or 6" panels straddling as many corners as possible. For those panels you may want to think about using FRK on the fronts to leave some of the highs in the room and it will act as a limp membrane and absorb more low end. For the first reflections (which you do need) you can go with 2" panels (NO FRK) through out the room. As Scott pointed out you can make them 4" if you want to pick up a little more low end, but just keep in mind that it is A LITTLE. You can weigh the cost on that and see if it is worth it to you.
BTW, Bpape, who works with me, already chimed in so I did not want to step on his feet so sorry I did not chime in earlier.

Glenn
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Old 18th April 2007, 03:06 PM   #22
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Ethan If i go with realtraps what should i pick mondo traps micro traps etc
I have to agree with Scott. Forum owners generally frown on vendors like us conducting business in their public forums. However, I'm glad to discuss generalities.

As for those generalities, all rooms need as much bass trapping as possible. If the higher cost of MondoTraps is not a problem for you, that will give you the best results. When cost is the main concern, the same number of dollars spent on more MiniTraps will be a better value. I'll be glad to elaborate by phone or email. Understand that the price per trap is not the only factor when deciding what treatment to buy and who to buy it from.

Quote:
the prices on the website it says like 199.99 each then it says 1-9 pieces, does this mean it comes with 9 pieces or what.
It means price each, as stated. If you buy ten or more we offer a small quantity discount.

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Old 18th April 2007, 04:48 PM   #23
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ok thanks guys i understand ppl in the forum may not like it but thanks you have neen really usefull i will be contacting all three of you guys because you three are the ones im considering. myfipie its all cool. Etan cool can i get your email or whatever or if glen, scott, ethan ican pm you and send you guys pictures of the room and stuff.
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