Mounting Wall Absorbers, Bass Traps, etc

[jetpackstudios]

How is everyone mounting their wall-mounted sound panels?

I just finished up the basic framing for my detached garage studio. Next up is the mass vinyl, rc channel, double drywall, etc.

Before tackling all this, I'm trying to figure out how my wall mounted sound panels will be secured. I doing some broadband absorbers, sidewall diffusers and a few bass traps based on the plans by John Sayers.

Here's my rough plan. Let me know the sonic pitfalls of doing this...

1. Mount braces for my sound panels to my cinder block wall which will match the profile of my existing furring strips.

2. Mount my mass vinyl for the entire room.

3. Extend the brace on the other side of the mass vinyl to 2-4" past where my wall/drywall will be. I'm picturing these extensions being 2x4s that will have a French Cleat or simple V cut for the back of the Sound Panels to hang from.

I may be thwarting some of my sound proofing by extending these mounts through my decoupled walls but I'd like to avoid using cable or free-standing floor panels.

In short here's the layout:

Block Wall > Mount > Mass Vinyl > Mount Continued > 2"-4" Extension past Double Drywall > French Cleat or V cut on end of extension > Sound Panel

Any thoughts?

Adam - jetpackstudios

[Ethan Winer]

Originally Posted by jetpackstudios

How is everyone mounting their wall-mounted sound panels?

It depends entirely on the type of panel. People use hooks, wires, nails, stands, and so forth.

Block Wall > Mount > Mass Vinyl...

Skip the vinyl and save some money. Compared to cinder block, that vinyl stuff costs far more for maybe 0.5 percent increase in mass.

--Ethan

[nosebleedaudio]

Skip the vinyl and save some money. Compared to cinder block, that vinyl stuff costs far more for maybe 0.5 percent increase in mass.

--Ethan[/QUOTE]

Use the sound board or blackboard as some call it, 1/2" thick 4' by 8' around $8.00
2 layers work very well and is cheaper than the vinyl sheet.
It has its place, when space is a premium for example.

[jetpackstudios]

Thanks for the budgetary concerns guys

I picked up 8 rolls of the mass vinyl for almost nothing ($25 a roll) so the cost isn't an issue. A friend of a friend does sound proofing and installs on big auditoriums and had some extra.

What do you think of my proposed mounting scheme? Pros? Cons?

Adam




after

Originally Posted by nosebleedaudio

Skip the vinyl and save some money. Compared to cinder block, that vinyl stuff costs far more for maybe 0.5 percent increase in mass.

--Ethan

Use the sound board or blackboard as some call it, 1/2" thick 4' by 8' around $8.00
2 layers work very well and is cheaper than the vinyl sheet.
It has its place, when space is a premium for example.[/QUOTE]

[Ethan Winer]

Originally Posted by jetpackstudios

What do you think of my proposed mounting scheme? Pros? Cons?

Basically, however you can get them to stay up is fine. What matters most is having treatment in the first place.

Also, panels made from rigid fiberglass work best straddling the corners and/or spaced off the walls. So using French cleats is less than ideal because it doesn't allow for an air gap.

--Ethan

[jetpackstudios]

Thanks Ethan,

The air space is key from what I've read, unless I used John Sayer's sealed back designs.

Extending a mount 2"-4" past the drywall looks to be the best scenario.

I need to start a photo essay thread on my build. Seeing other people building out their studios has been excellent motivation for me...

Adam

Originally Posted by Ethan Winer

Basically, however you can get them to stay up is fine. What matters most is having treatment in the first place.

Also, panels made from rigid fiberglass work best straddling the corners and/or spaced off the walls. So using French cleats is less than ideal because it doesn't allow for an air gap.

--Ethan

[mamm7215]

French cleats work great for hanging wall panels flush to a wall. I've done that and it's easy plus the panels are very solid on the walls.

[6strings]

Originally Posted by jetpackstudios

I may be thwarting some of my sound proofing by extending these mounts through my decoupled walls but I'd like to avoid using cable or free-standing floor panels.

Yup, you will be defeating the purpose of wall decoupling. Here's what I did to place panels without drilling holes in my walls mounted on resilient channel...

1. Liquid-nail two 3' furring strips along back of 703 (I let sit for 2 days)

2. Wrap in fabric

3. Staple velcro to furring strips over fabric.

4. Figure out and measure your spots for the panel, put the opposing side velcro on the panel and remove the backing paper and then (with moderate pressure) push panel into place.

----------

I wouldn't do this with Mineral Fiber panels due to the heavy weight.

I might have some pics to post if anyone's interested, but it's a pretty basic concept. The panels are very solid and though there's velcro involved, they are a bitch to move or take down once they're up. Consider this a semi-permanent solution... BUT .... no holes or negating the decoupled of your walls....

[dim light]

Originally Posted by jetpackstudios

I need to start a photo essay thread on my build. Seeing other people building out their studios has been excellent motivation for me...

Adam

Please do that! I really enjoy seeing peoples DIY projects. Keep it up!

I will use wood stripes on the wall and ceiling to mount my absorbers etc. Both my walls and the ceiling is plaster boards... I'll return with pictures when I'm done!

[bpape]

Yes - you'll be definitely hurting your iso by extending these this way. A french cleat on the wall is great. Just hanging via a wire is fine though.

For spacing behind, max effective distance is equal to the thickness of the absorbtion. Any more is wasted and can actually start to narrow the absorbtion peak and cause it to act more like a filter. IMO, the easiest way to space it is to use 'feet' at the 4 corners of the panel and then just hang with a wire. Simple, quick, effective, and cheap. Also, easy to move if needed.

Bryan