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| | #1 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | Genelec 1031A - What is wrong with them?
I just hapend to own a pair for few years now and I still don't trust them so much. I spoke with one friend who told me that they have a problem arround 1Khz. Does anyone have some detailed graph or something about their real EQ curve, so I can use it on the master bus as temporary EQ when mixing. Maybe this would help me to get them more flat sounding. Anyone? Purusha |
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| | #2 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2005 Location: New York, NY
Posts: 2,843
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i always roll of the treble at -2db tilt.
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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There's nothing wrong with them. Not biggest woofer in the hood but, still, it's all good.
__________________ C'mon! ![]() "Soon, no one will have to DO anything." |
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| | #4 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Oct 2004 Location: right coast
Posts: 3,857
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1031As.... some of my favorite speakers that I do not use for working. What do I mean by that? Genelecs are sooooo soft on the ears, that I love them. What I do is, I get the sounds with the Adams or Dyna BM-15As, then when I am just listening back while recording performances, I switch to the Genelecs. Long dog days of drums are much less trying on the ears and brain when I listen through Genelecs for the majority.
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| | #5 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | No bottom in my new home studio room???
I have big problems with my Genelecs 1031A in my new place. There is no bottom coming out of them. I have studio in the upper room of the house so my ceiling is not flat like in normal rooms: ....... ___7m___ .... /................\ .... l___________l ---> speakers are shoting this way ----> The room is about 4 x 7 meters. Ceiling is also not made from concrete, but from special plaster panels. I have a lot of thick rock wool absorbers and diffusers all around the place. In my opinion the ceiling somehow absorbs all the bass. Usually one has problems with too much bass but not in this case. Really weird. I am thinking of getting a subwoofer. Any suggestions what would go with 1031A. I need something just to give me some bottom. I don't need a blasting woofer which cost a lot also. Any good woofers below 500$? Any suggestions what to do or what to buy to improve the situation? Purusha |
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| | #6 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Sep 2005 Location: hell, michigan
Posts: 2,797
| Quote:
plaster is very slappy and reflective... dont listen to me if you normally like the sound of 1031s.. i'm just venting. i've made better mixes on a mono horrortone.
__________________ 3WO - Mixing Without Tears "Some think I should teach men the way to heaven. But I would rather teach them the way to hell so they'll know how to go around it..." -- Niccolo Machiavelli | |
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| | #7 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2005 Location: New York, NY
Posts: 2,843
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You probably have some sort of phase cancellation going on. I would work on fixing the room via acoustic panels etc... before you go and buy new speakers. Quote:
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| | #8 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 670
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If your room has more then 2 layers of a hard material between floors you are loosing bass and keeping highs. The formula is: hard surface - air gap - hard surface. Don’t know if this is your problem but I just wanted to educate you before you get into a sub or spending more unnecessary money.
__________________ http://www.sozocapacitors.com |
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| | #9 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2004 Location: Los Angeles ,Ca.
Posts: 8,853
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I'm no acoustics expert but, It sounds like some weird sonic voodoo goin on in the room.. the speakers are probably fine just for a test,try placing the speakers in a bunch of different areas of the room to see if things change for the better or worse.sounds like some phase stuff I sold my gennies for some Adams..missing mid's aside.. they're not THAT bad.. |
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| | #10 |
| Gearslutz.com admin |
I had some 1031's for about 6 or 7 years.. untill I bought some ADAMS... HANG ON! I Still HAVE my 1031's, there are in the studios B room..
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| | #11 | |
| Lives for gear | Quote:
I miss the ATR 102 sucky speaker but I bought some $6 computer speakers that do the trick.
__________________ "I know of several comparisons [right here on this board] where no one could tell the difference between a Martech pre-amp and a Behringer." - Fletcher Darian Rundall | |
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| | #12 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | Quote:
This is really frustrating me. stike Purusha | |
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| | #13 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter |
Just for fun I turned up my Genius computer subwoofer for 50$ along with 1031A and I liked already, but I don't think I can trust such a cheap woofer for some real work. And than when I turn down the woofer it's like somebody seriously reduced the bass under 150dB. It sucks without the woofer. That is all I know for now. Don't know which way to go Purusha |
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| | #14 |
| Gear addict |
I don't think your problem is with room/acoustics. It's not possible not to hear lows when you stand close to monitors. There are only two way possibility: either they're working OK or not. I think you should call your technician and check amplifiers and drivers. But, to be honest, if something died in there, it's not possible it died on both speakers the same time. Call a professional to solve it! Regards to Slovenia from Belgrade!!!!! |
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| | #15 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | Quote:
Thanks, This came to my mind also, but it's not possible that something went wrong in both speakers at the same time. I guess I'll have to get some other speakers to test the room and take my speakers to some other room to find out where the problem is. Regards to Belgrade Purusha | |
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| | #16 |
| Gear nut Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 77
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The room can definitely be a problem. Of course first make sure that they work properly. As someone suggested try different positions in the room as this will make them interact differently with the room modes. If the front wall is hard and heavy (multi layered plasterboard or bricks etc.) You can try mooving them back closer to the wall as this will acoustically augment the bass energy. Stay away from corners. At 7 meters the room is big enough for bass to develop properly and be heard but phase cancellation is harder to control without proper design. |
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| | #17 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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You have three potential problems (or some combination of the three): 1. Your room needs tuning (almost everybody's does). 2. You NEED a sub - fact is the 1031's don't go down that far (even though you wish they did). A sub is good thing (used lightly). 3. Your cones have started to separate from the outer rubber O rings. This happened to me. It really freaked me out but I was able to Super Glue the sections of the seems that worked their way apart (then I pawned that pair to the CG studio - shhhhhhh - Here's how you can tell: push your finger gently around the outer edge of the cone. Go around and see if any seems have worked loose. Also when you tap hard on the mid area of the cone (not on the bullseye center node but in the meat area of the cone) - it should give a nice bassy thwooooomp |
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| | #18 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter |
1.) I agree, I know my room is not hi-end treated but I think it's treated sufficiently to reduce at least the mid and high range problems... 2.) It looks to me that I really need one 3.) I checked this but it seams OK. Should I take the speakers out to check from inside the cones? The taping also gives a nice bassy thwooooomp. I will upload today some pictures of my place. This will give you some extra informations of where might be the problem. Thank you so far Purusha |
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| | #19 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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No need to take the speakers out. You be able to spot the faulty seems (or gaps) from the front. Yeah - upload some pics maybe we can spot the room problem visually. |
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| | #20 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | Pictures
I hope this will help in some way... [IMG]******//gearslutz.com/board/attachment.php3?attachmentid=11994[/IMG] Purusha |
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| | #21 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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VERY nice setup. Just a guess with NO math (because I'm not there and don't have the exact dimensions) but you may have inadvertently created a node of cancellation due to the thickness of those baffles. Being thick is fine, but I'm guessing the space in between them (especially the ones at the top) is causing nodes. Take the ones on the top down and see what happens. The size & shape of the room (without the baffles) looks pretty decent to start with but then you add the baffles (panels) and THEN you added the speaker columns so you might have a couple of dimensions PERHAPS you didn't need to create. I'm a crazy guy and I have tuned my room - made baffles then ripped them down - then part acoustic foam and semi reflective panels - ripped THEM down and now am in the process of doing all over AGAIN so don't fret if you have to tweak. So, I would take a few of those panels and HALF them in size so you can adjust them more. Two things regarding that - you may just need to make a few more to fill in the spots where there are no panels making them (and the new wall they would all create) somewhat flush. BTW are those scoops on the top of speaker columns? |
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| | #22 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Feb 2003 Location: Atascadero, CA
Posts: 4,055
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The first thing I'd do is get the 1031's out of those cabinets. Try them vertically about 6 feet apart sitting on something solid.
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| | #23 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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Good advise too. The more I'm looking at it the more I think you should either push those columns back or soffet mount those speakers into the wall. Your room looks right and you should be able to do that. Here's the thing: I know you must take pride in those columns (as you should they are VERY cool) but they might serve you better if they were pushed into the walls (construction time) to whatever level you actually CAN integrate them in. AND I'll bet the scoops at the top are creating a node of cancellation and not letting your room do the work. |
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| | #24 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 972
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Here ya go (little Photoshop hack - sorry):
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| | #25 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter |
Ooooh no! : ) I just made these special stacks a few days ago just because I was not getting enough bass (this was a practical suggestion from a good friend who is in this business much longer than me) Before I had my speakers on the stands in the same place or maybe just a litle more back, but still not enough bass. The bass was louder only in the middle of the room, but not anymore since I build this stacks. The problem is that I am renting this house and I can't realy do what I want. I can't mount them into the wall for example. it must be some other solution. The scoopes are there so that the sound waves from speakers don't bounce directly from the ceiling back to me. They are made from 4mm wood pannels perforated with 6mm holes. Also suggestion from a friend. Purusha |
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| | #26 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Feb 2003 Location: Atascadero, CA
Posts: 4,055
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well it's beginning to look like you might have a serious room geometry problem. (By the way, you don't have the bass rollloff switches engaged on the back of the genelecs do you? I assume that this would have been the first thing that has been experimented with.) I've seen some rooms where one dimension is way too long for the other and the bass has very deep nodes. Like no bass at the board and too much 3 feet back from there etc. The only solution that I have seen work (although there are others. I have only had successful results with this one) is to turn the back wall into a massive bass trap. I don't mean some corner traps. I mean the entire back wall is a bass trap. this can be done with minimal attachment to the existing structure by building a wall that is floated and is 2-3 feet in front of existing wall. I cover the new wall with celotex wall board in approx 2 foot wide strips leaving a 2-3 inch space between strips which turns the cavity into a resonator. Stuff the cavity with rockwool or old mattresses...anything absorbant. The idea is to keep the bass from bouncing off the back wall and then recombining with the direct sound from the speakers which causes all the severe dips and peaks in the bass response. |
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| | #27 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter |
tutt I know that the back wall should be like a big bass trap but as I mentioned I will be in this house maybe for a few years so I don't want to waste money on some big changes. I can put some more rock wool absorbers in the back of the room, no problem, but something more expencive... I will test some things this week. Probably the Dynaudio BM6 in my room, different positions of Genelecs in the room, combinations with small Dynaudio subwoofer... my Genelecs in music shop side by side with other monitors. I am thinkig at the moment, OK I am losing some bass here, but otherwise the sound is tight and much better with this stacks then before, so why not just add a nice small woofer and that is it? If the room demands more bass than why not have more bass. What matters at the end is anyway that my mixes translate well to other speakers, isn't it? Since I moved to this place, all my mixes started to sound with too much bass. I see the solution with the subwoofer as the less expensive way to solve the problem. Also my NS10 need some extra bass on the long run. What do you say? thumbsup tutt Purusha |
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| | #28 | |
| Gear Head Joined: Mar 2004 Location: Finland
Posts: 43
| Quote:
Do you know about frequency cancellation and it's relation to speaker distance from the back wall? Here's a link: ******//www.genelec.com/support/soffit.php Might be useful info | |
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| | #29 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Slovenia
Posts: 515
Thread Starter | Quote:
Purusha | |
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| | #30 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: Feb 2003 Location: Atascadero, CA
Posts: 4,055
| Quote:
Actually, a full wall bass trap can be built quite inexpensively. 2"x2" studs on 24" centers using strips of whatever 1/2" buliding material that can be found cheap or even used. Stuff with insulation ( I stuffed one with mattress stuffing that a mattress store gave to me free). If it doesn't work, tear it out. If it does work, buy some nice fabric and cover it so it looks good. Not expensive but very effective. My control room shares some of the shape as your room and this kind of trap solved my problems. ( I've since torn it out to put in a window and rear entrance and I had to learn the room all over again and install a sub to compensate. Now when I mix I have to stand up occassionally to check the bass. standing waves are a bitch. Someday I'm going to put as much of that trap back in as my rear wall allows. By the way, I'm also using genelec 1031's on stands and found that inches made a big difference when placing them.) | |
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