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Old 11th March 2010   #1
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D&R Triton or MCI 4 or 500 series

Difference seems to be some colour in the MCI vs clean on D&R, and MCI sounds more like a maintenance monkey......
Any thoughts? Have to buy something in next 2-3 weeks.
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Old 11th March 2010   #2
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There is nothing difficult to work on in a 400 mci, I would venture to say it is one of the easiest consoles to work on ever. That being said, if you buy any console without testing first you are just asking for problems....... Dont forget, bova sound makes discrete opamp replacements for both 4 and 5 series mci. With those in there I fear the competition is slim (if you like color), +28 on the mix buss flat up to 20k down 1k at 20hz. That is with an old master strip with old caps etc, not to bad. Good luck in your search.
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Old 11th March 2010   #3
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The triton internal wiring is definately a more modern design than the MCI. Like you said, colored - MCI. Transparent - D&R. Personally, I don't like the sound of MCI consoles, but many do..... So owning an MCI and running EVERYTHING thru it would be a drag for me. You're basically talking transformers (lots of em) vs. transformerless.

If color is not your ONLY need, you're better off with a less colored console, and add to taste with outboard pre's/compressors/etc..

The Triton's 3dB down points are 10Hz - 200k. At least that's the best I can remember. I owned one awhile back. Phase shift is second to none.

Personally, I'd go D&R, but it's certainly an individual decision that is best made only by YOU.
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Old 11th March 2010   #4
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yep, have played with the D&R, and will have a play with the MCI before I decide. Also have the option of getting something more modern e.g. Zen, but that is a different beast with no eq and only 16 channels. Zen would be too much of a compromise. The ASP8024 is still too expensive, and the Toft probably a bit too much about value.
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Old 12th March 2010   #5
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Are you in New Zealand? I'd say whatever is local to you!!!! Sounds like your timeframe is short and you probably don't want to be dealing with issues. I'd go with whatever is in better shape and the most functional!
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Old 12th March 2010   #6
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That triton desk is pretty nice! I think I've seen the one your looking at. I might have bought that if that were in the states.
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Old 12th March 2010   #7
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Anybody know where to find d&r consoles in the states? I've searched about everywhere I know of....
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Old 13th March 2010   #8
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Anybody know where to find d&r consoles in the states? I've searched about everywhere I know of....
Found them in 2 minutes. Scroll down - SF Corp. in the US.

http://www.d-r.nl/dnrsite/contacts/dealers.html
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Old 13th March 2010   #9
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Sorry should have specified used.
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Old 13th March 2010   #10
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They sometimes have used ones in stock. I know last time I talked with them they had a used 48 channel Orion in stock. It's hard to find D&R's. Especially in the states. They are more plentiful in EU.
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Old 13th March 2010   #11
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Good to know! Thanks! Yeah, they are quite difficult to find here
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Old 13th March 2010   #12
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if you feel you can trust the person you're buying from, and you get the price and configuration you're looking for, I wouldn't hesitate to ship it in from overseas. Get a customs broker, and you can figure out on the front end how much it will cost you.
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Old 15th March 2010   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
Good to know! Thanks! Yeah, they are quite difficult to find here
If I lived in the USA , I 'd buy a used Neotek.
They're the sonic/quality build equivalent to D&R.
Go with a local manufacturer, where you can get replacements parts easily, and custom service who is not 10 000 miles away.

I'm not dissing D&R, I bought and own an Orion, which I love.
But I live in France, and went to get my console in the netherlands (where it was built) in a van.

I know Dr Bill will say thet service on this desk is minimus (which is true) and support from Ruko is great (whic is also true), but I think that when you're in the middle price buying trade, and you don't pay the high price for a unique piece of audio, local is best.

Good luck !
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Old 15th March 2010   #14
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MCI's are indeed easy to work on, but I don't know if that mitigates the fact that you'll probably need to be working on it all the time.

The EQ is an acquired taste as well, I'd make sure you dig its vibe before jumping on it.


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Old 19th March 2010   #15
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Maybe a stupid question, but whats the deal with direct outs on the Triton? Is that the Group Out jack? Is it pre eq?

EDIT: I figured it out. its group or direct, and its post eq.
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Old 24th March 2010   #16
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Bought the triton

51 channel frame, with 32 inline mono (2 not working), 6 stereo (2 not working), and patchbay in centre section next to master bus controls.
woohoo!
Needs work on 3 ledbars, and the preamp chips will need some replacements.
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Old 24th March 2010   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Bernstone View Post
Difference seems to be some colour in the MCI vs clean on D&R, and MCI sounds more like a maintenance monkey......
Any thoughts? Have to buy something in next 2-3 weeks.
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Old 14th April 2010   #18
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Triton turning into a bit of a project. Nothing major, but just a lot of small things. Floating bus 4 is out, and something fried the preamp Cap on channel 10, with the fader on channel 13 needing replacement. Also, the frame is a bit funky, and seems to be dependent on the modules for strength.....does that sound right?
Lovely sound, though.
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Old 14th April 2010   #19
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Also, the frame is a bit funky, and seems to be dependent on the modules for strength.....does that sound right?
no. that doesn't sound right. Something must be up. Those frames are solid. Really solid.
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Old 15th April 2010   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moracspace View Post
The frames are dinosaur solid something definatly is up.The mic chip being bad is no big deal.3.oo back in bizz.Floating sub group 4 how ever is slightly tougher to figure out,but stilling something sounds crazy with that as well.Usally wen a subgroup goes out it both 3 and 4 or 5 and 6 and so on.Call Paul Westbrook.He can help
Thanks dude. I have found a blown rail resister on channel 10, and it seems to be related to the floating bus....but not sure. Any other ideas, let me know. the other floating groups are fine. So sounds more like a connection thing, right?
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Old 15th April 2010   #21
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Moracspace

just noticed your D&R has a piece of metal running between the legs at the back, that I dont have. That would explain why my frame rocks.....
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Old 15th April 2010   #22
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Moracspace

just noticed your D&R has a piece of metal running between the legs at the back, that I dont have. That would explain why my frame rocks.....
That would be the reason. Get a 2X4 temporarily in place to steady it and order one from D&R - or have a local metal shop fabricate something for you. It's basically just a 6 or 8" piece of steel channel.
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Old 15th April 2010   #23
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There is nowhere to fix one onto the stands that I have. Would have to drill etc.....is that normal? Just plugged all the channels in, and have some noise on a couple of tape return circuits.
Any clues anyone on the floating bus that I am missing? (no. 4)
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Old 15th April 2010   #24
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There is nowhere to fix one onto the stands that I have. Would have to drill etc.....is that normal? Just plugged all the channels in, and have some noise on a couple of tape return circuits.
Any clues anyone on the floating bus that I am missing? (no. 4)
Then the legs are not stock legs. The stock legs have holes on the back of them that the cross brace bolts into.

Check the jumpers on the PCB's of modules 1-4 in relations to the groups. Check especially channel 4 to make sure it is jumpered correctly. If modules have been swapped - say module 19 into channel 4 position, the bussing will not work correctly until the module in position 4 is configured correctly.
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Old 15th April 2010   #25
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Now the power supply wont turn on again...........AAAAARRRRGGGHHHH.....time for a beer......

edit: its ok, just a broken switch

Got a line on a C-mix, and was looking into automation for the Triton. Any views on this?
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