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| | #31 | |
| Gear nut Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 84
| Quote:
If you are going to use 2 x 20ft cables, there's only 2 outcomes: 1. Live with the capacitance effect of 2 long instrument cables (loss of tone...yuk! Although some old blues guys dig it, Albert Collins for one.) 2. Put a buffered device in the middle...which will also change the tone slightly. I have a P-Split II ordered , from what I've read (a lot!) it reproduces exactly the original signal to both outputs unbuffered...so any change in tone from that point is the result of extra cable capacitance. Obviously I've yet to test it properly. It seems if you want an unbuffered split, go with the Lehle, I think it's the only transparent one...and for a buffered split, there's Little Labs and Radial. BUT, you can always add a buffered pedal to the Lehle, there's no way to 'unbuffer' a signal. A lot of people don't like that buffered sound, so I think Lehle went the right route here in leaving that choice open. I guess he could make a more expensive one with buffered outputs also, or both... ![]() Depends what your priority is, since I'm reamping I want to get the signal in direct as uncoloured as possible. Anyhow, here's my solution...I'll be leaving the P-Split next to the preamp with a short Mogami patch lead, and running as short a cable as I can to the amp...I'll add a buffered pedal to that if I need to. GTRS -> P SPLIT (output #1)-> (short patch lead) -> MILLENNIA STT-1 PREAMP #1 (D.I. INPUT) -------> P SPLIT (output #2)-> (possibly a buffered pedal, as short a cable as possible) -> DIEZEL HERBERT MKII ->RECTO OR VINTAGE MARSHALL CABS -> MIC -> MILLENNIA STT-1 PREAMP #2 (MIC INPUT) I use a cheap radial ProRMP to reamp, it's great! Once you set the control to match directly plugging in, it works perfectly. No wallwarts to worry about either, so I can run a long cable to the amp, or run a balanced line to the ProRMP on top of the head, with a short patch lead. Also with cables, I got a couple of Evidence Audio cables for recording when I bought the Diezel some years back, but I can't say I can hear any difference from my Mogami stage lead, which is a much nicer cable to use. I haven't tried Monsters, but I thought their rep was a bit suss now? Anyhow, might be worth making up some nice Mogami leads with neutrik plugs to fit your room size, to cut down on the capacitance somewhat...I find a 12ft is perfect for around the desk, if you could cut it down to close to 20 ft total (both leads) unbuffered you shouldn't have any tone loss from a single 20ft. My 2c anyhoot. | |
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| | #32 | |
| Gear interested Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Nashville
Posts: 29
| Quote:
The guitar going directly to the amp - the guitar feels the load of the cable and amp impedance - the amp senses the output impedance of the guitar... That combination of impedances creates a particular sound. As soon as you try to split the signal the impedance math changes - a simple Y cable into two or more amps and the loading of each additional amp changes the shape of the tone going to all amps (not to mention ground connecting issues) Transformers solve ground issues but amp and guitar impedances are reflected back and forth across the windings; and the impedance of the transformer itself is fixed, not variable, so chances are it won't exactly mimick the impedance of the original direct connection. And then there's the sound of the transformer itself - which can be a good thing, but not if you just want to record the original direct tone. The MW1 with variable input and output impedance is a great way to solve this issue... Here's the idea: vary the input impedance on the MW1 until it mimicks the amp's input impedance - then the guitar will think it's still connected to the amp; vary the output impedance on the MW1 until it mimicks the guitar's output impedance - then the amp thinks it's still connected to a guitar... at this point the tone is as close as you can get to a direct connection, meanwhile inside the MW1 between the input and output you can tap into the signal and send it to other places without affecting the relationship between the guitar and the amp... What happens next is that you begin playing and experimenting with the impedances and you find that sometimes, deliberatly mis-matching the impedance opens up a whole new world of tone shaping without adding filters and EQs to the path. It's possible to split the signal into four amps with the MW1 by looping the XLR out to the XLR in... you could make it six by using the tuner outputs, but they don't have the variable output impedances, and you'll probably have to play around with lifting grounds when you have multiple amps.... hope this helps... | |
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| | #33 | |
| Gear interested Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
| Splitters Quote:
If you can find a Roger Mayer crossroads these are great at retaining the guitars tone ,infact they seem to stabilize the guitar signal ,The STD is great but is a hair bright...cool ,very usable and shoudnt prevent geting a great guitar sound ...But the Roger box is defo worth a look..£250 ish TheDog | |
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| | #34 | |
| Gear interested Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Nashville
Posts: 29
| Quote:
If you do get to try an MW1 - let me know if that works, and if not, what you think would help... Thanks, Skip | |
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| | #35 |
| Lives for gear Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 960
| The spilt boxes from Radial is VERY good. I have the JD-7 myself. I know they have a cheaper stomp-box version with less outputs too. I CANNOT hear a difference from an original to a splitted signal. |
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| | #36 |
| Gear addict Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 473
| Diviede by 13 Switchazel. Fred will configure these to your order and he makes an incredibly natural buffer Divided by 13 |
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