Does anyone make a box that converts AES/EBU to ADAT lightpipe?

[Blue Bear Sound]

One of the Z-Sys Detanglers, maybe? (Custom configured)

[DrDeltaM]

http://www.rme-audio.com/english/adi/adi4dd.htm
http://www.rme-audio.com/english/adi/adi8dd.htm

[MIKEHARRIS]

check this out...very simple.from Graham-patten

http://www.gpsys.com/products/adat3.htm

[Jim Williams]

Alesis AI-4.

Your welcome.

Jim Williams
Audio Upgrades

[deepwater]

Originally posted by Jim Williams
Alesis AI-4.

Your welcome.

Jim Williams
Audio Upgrades

I was going to say the samething

[Autowow]

Thank you all for the suggestions. Jim- you rule man! (and that mod that you performed on my lexicon LXP-1 made that toy box kicks ass!)

It looks like that Alesis AI-4 is the ticket. Have any of you folks ever used one before? Would I experience any degradation in sound? That’s kind of a dumb question but the name “Alesis” just kinda puts some doubt in me. Thanks again.

[GYang]

If you are on slightly higher budget don't miss RME ADI-8DD that is not just simple format converter 8 ch ADAT to and from 8 ch AES/EBU, but much, much more. It is perfect sample rate converter, de-jitter and indeed very good clock. Also, you can go with 8 ch SMUX ADAT route if you prefer 24/96 sample rate.
In practice I found this deviceflawless, probably the best RME device in my studio.

GYang

[Autowow]

Maybe you can school me here a bit. If I have the Lavry blue wouldn't I want to use the clock off of that. I was assuming that would be my master clock. I don't need anymore AD or DA I just need a digital format converter. 6 CH AES/EBU to ADAT optical.

[not_so_new]

It looks like that Alesis AI-4 is the ticket. Have any of you folks ever used one before? Would I experience any degradation in sound? That’s kind of a dumb question but the name “Alesis” just kinda puts some doubt in me. Thanks again.

Never used it but from what I hear the AI-1 (I think) was CRAP! Something about 20 bit and truncated at that. I also heard (maybe from Jim) that the AI-4 was a great unit.

The only problem is with all these decives in a chain I think your latency going to be pretty high. I could be wrong but that is what I would be worried about.

[Jim Williams]

Originally posted by not_so_new
Never used it but from what I hear the AI-1 (I think) was CRAP! Something about 20 bit and truncated at that. I also heard (maybe from Jim) that the AI-4 was a great unit.

The only problem is with all these decives in a chain I think your latency going to be pretty high. I could be wrong but that is what I would be worried about.

The AI-1 was a 16 bit device that also added some THD to the data, it is partly responsible for Lynn Fuston's poorly produced 3D Audio Mic Pre shootout CD's. (He used one to convert the AES data from a Mytek converter to S/PDIF). It wasn't hard to figure it out, just patching it in line with no changes affects the sound.

The AI-4 is 24 bit, 96k. I also use a Midi Man SAM, but it is limited to 48k as is the Graham-Patten box. I've not noticed any delay through these feeding outboard converters, but then again, I'm an old salt that likes to mix in analog instead of in a computer.

Jim Williams
Audio Upgrades

[GYang]

Originally posted by Autowow
Maybe you can school me here a bit. If I have the Lavry blue wouldn't I want to use the clock off of that. I was assuming that would be my master clock. I don't need anymore AD or DA I just need a digital format converter. 6 CH AES/EBU to ADAT optical.

Definitely no need to add master clock to Lavry converter (this is actually much disputed issue, after all), but for example if some ADAT source will serve as clock source to RME, even in case of high jitter, on output you'll get de-jittered signal. In my case after adding RME to my setup (it controls signal flows between my RME PC Card via 2 lightpipe (8 ch. at 24/96) and my outboards) I found whole system more synced, no dropouts, clicks or pops.

GYang

[not_so_new]

Thanks Jim...

[Dynodawg]

I run an AI-4 all the time when tracking with my HEDD192. The thing works great. The only thing with the box is that you manually have to change the AES xlr input to 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8 and also toggle the input source on the front of the panel. I built an AES patchbay to do this so I don't have to do the crawl everytime I want to change inputs.


dyno

www.dougploss.com

[2Low]

Mutec

http://www.mutec-net.de/e_cont_digitalaudio.htm

[Timsplace]

Lucid Audio makes a box that does AES/A-D-A/ADAT all in one.

Lucid 8824

We use a bunch of these to go from our Digi 888's to optical.

Tim