Solder

[A Fak]

Does the kind of solder you you make a differance in sound?
(I'm using it to make some Mogami cables)

I just bought the AlphaFry it says its:
lead free
.62"da
Alloy: Flo-Temp Silver Bearing Solder with Rosin Flux Core

It was the most expensive one they had, and it says for "Electrical Repair", and for its list of applications it was the only one that mentioned "wires".

Also any tips on soldering would be helpful [I havent used a soldering iron since 8th grade wood shop (9 years or so)].

[Thermionic]

If you haven't used an iron since 8th grade, you probably want to practice before trying to weld anything of value I'd say.

Please don't think I'm being rude, but you should put these kind of enquiries in the "Geek" forum really, that's what it's here for. Check this thread we had there a while back, there are a few links to online tutorials and books:

http://gearslutz.com/board/showthrea...ight=soldering

As I said in the link, soldering is an underrated skill, and I would certainly recommend some practice before going near anything of value.

Justin

edit:

Does the kind of solder you you make a differance in sound?

I wasn't around in the '50s, but people tell me there was a shortage of tin at some point, and consequently the solder available had a high aluminium content - I would therefore stay clear of certain solder brands made in the '50s. Beyond that, if you can "hear" solder types I would suggest getting a job in the surveillance / espionage industry if your ears are so good you can hear solder, you'd be wasted in the music industry with a talent like that.

BTW, if you are too liberal in applying solder there is a *theoretical* noise penalty, but I reckon you'd have to solder all your cables in a profoundly clumsy manner to notice anything.

[David Kulka]

I recommend 63/37 solder. That alloy does not pass through a plastic phase as it cools from liquid to solid. This is important for avoiding cold joints, since any movement while solder is in the plastic phase will cause a "cold" solder joint which might come apart and/or contribute noise. 63/37 tends to result in solder connections that are shiny. Shiny is good.

All other alloys including the common 60/40 have a plastic phase, and hinder soldering work.

If you check ebay, you'll see rolls of "vintage" solder going for hundreds of dollars. Most of it seems to go to Japan, God knows why. In my experience, decades old solder does not work very well.