Hot melt glue on solder joints?

[Speedskater]

We used some ShoeGoo on a large multi-pin cable connector on a sensitive industrial test stand connector. It did the job.

[Starspawn]

I did a circuitbend where I used a test board to create a matrix.
Couldnt solder to the back of it easily so just jammed in the cable ends under the metal at the back, fastened with superglue and put a lot of hot glue on top to damn well keep them there.
Worked just fine.
See it often on guitar pedals as well, just a bunch of glue keeping the connections from somehow falling out.

[Richard Crowley]

Using glue (of whatever variety) for reinforcing mechanical joints is one thing. But if your solder joints need that kind of help, then they aren't proper solder joints. A solder joint should NOT need "mechanical help". If there is a problem with "cable getting moved around will cause shorts", then there is some other problem. For example, if using stranded wire, are ALL the strands properly twisted together and held in place by the solder, etc. Or is the cable sheath properly secured so it isn't causing stress on the pin solder joints.

[ripple_fx1]

If you do glue - try 100% clear silicone. titanium oxide is used to carry color in many products.

[JohnRoberts]

I have used hot glue on some kluge wired dongles, to keep the wire from flexing too much and breaking... Not a typical production strategy.

JR

[LeeYoo]

Originally Posted by ripple_fx1

If you do glue - try 100% clear silicone. titanium oxide is used to carry color in many products.

I have seen circuit board tracks rotted away underneath silicone.
Maybe it's the curing acid.

I think hotglue is an exellent way to fix wires to stop them from moving and breaking, but not where they are soldered.
Leo..

[RyanC]

Originally Posted by rcrowley

Using glue (of whatever variety) for reinforcing mechanical joints is one thing. But if your solder joints need that kind of help, then they aren't proper solder joints. A solder joint should NOT need "mechanical help". If there is a problem with "cable getting moved around will cause shorts", then there is some other problem. For example, if using stranded wire, are ALL the strands properly twisted together and held in place by the solder, etc. Or is the cable sheath properly secured so it isn't causing stress on the pin solder joints.

I hear ya, I have two issues where I'm looking for a little help. One of them is where I have XLR connectors on Belden 9182, both the mic xlr F ends (which are wired via 50ft directly into a XLR panel in the control room), and the other is the panel in the CR. The cable is just so stiff and big that neither connector end was really designed for it.

The other is some line level stuff I'm piping around the CR with mediatwist. I need to switch some things on and off and I just drilled holes in a blank rack panel for the switches, so again no proper strain relief and the solder points are very close to each other on the back of the switch. Also where those connect to DB25's the hood for the DB25 connector isn't a good match for the size of 2 plenum mediatwist cables inside it. Everything is fine with those, but I wouldn't mind a little extra security especially because I think it may be easier to just leave the hoods off (leaving all the solder points exposed).

Thanks guys!

[dualflip]

Originally Posted by LeeYoo

I have seen circuit board tracks rotted away underneath silicone.
Maybe it's the curing acid.

I think hotglue is an exellent way to fix wires to stop them from moving and breaking, but not where they are soldered.
Leo..

Except on those cases in which the internal temperature of the device is considerably hot. And it doesnt even have to be burning hot, I've noticed that say on anything above around 40ºC the hot glue will soften and "unglue", other times, the change in temperature from room temperature to hot and back, can cause the hot snot to become useless... I used some on my MCI console to hold some capacitors down to the board, it didnt last a day.

In those cases plain silicone is the way to go, theres even hi-temp silicone available.

[enginefire]

I am all for hot glue when securing mechanical parts. does not replace solder, but I did see a fuzz face set in a ball of epoxy on the internet once.



sent from my m-3500 using the gearslutz app

[Matt Syson]

Hi
Fit a 'tie bar' on the panel and rewire it neatly using heatshrink or silicone ruber sleeves on the joints to reduce risk of shorts.
If the inner cores of the wire are seriously too thick for connecting to your switches, use a bit of thinner gauge wire which is suitably insulated using heatshrink tagged onto the ends.
Matt S

[Mixermend]

I agree with the comments made about ensuring good soldered joints, but occasionally it is useful to use an adhesive bonding material, perhaps to secure large electrolytic capacitors and similar components to a PCB.

It is important to use the correct type of adhesive - a good one is Dow Corning 744 - this is like kitchen and bathroom sealant, but doesn't give off acetic acid when it cures (smells like vinegar). The much cheaper domestic sealer is the type Leo probably found that rotted the PCB tracks on a board.....

Normal hot glue doesn't seem to cause problems in my experience of fault finding on equipment - but some manufacturers can be over generous when they apply it (Behringer?). Always keep any adhesives well away from switch and connector surfaces - as it is easy to contaminate them, possibly even with vapour, or fumes.

[tINY]

Doesn't anybody use epoxy anymore? Seems like hot glue and silicone caulk end up being more or less permanent anyway....

For too-big wire, carefully cutting about 1/3 of the wire strands from the middle after you strip the ends works pretty well. Just twist the remaining strands together before you tin the end.

For strain relief, the best is a cable clamp or zip-tie base.

I like these because they are cheap and I can use any through-bolted screw to attach them if I don't want extra holes. Abbatron / HH Smith - 8944 - Plastic Wire & Cable - Screw Mount - Allied Electronics




-tINY

[Tallowah]

Not sure why you'd add glue to the "joint" since a solder "joint" is not meant for mechanical stability, it's to provide an electrical connection.

If you mean "gluing" the component(s) itself to the pcb, (after it has been properly soldered in place), for additional support, then yes, go for it! For everything except electrolytics anyway, (for obvious reasons).




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[maddog]

I've built many 8 channel (euro block) connectors with hot glue all over the solder joints. We use really thin audio / video cable for some of these and they need the extra glue. No performance issue. Just make sure everything is wired right cause there is no turning back.

[JohnRoberts]

I've never tried to repair/rework a wired header with epoxy added to mechanically secure wires, but I have reworked connectors with hot melt added, and the hot melt was relatively easy to remove and re-solder over.

YMMV

JR

[drtechno]

I used hot glue to 'tack' mechanically caps in so I don't have to hold them when I flip the board over to solder.

However, I would think it would be better to land your dip switch and connector onto a prototyping board that has an eyelet pattern suitable to your application. then you can either build up a db25 interconnection or drill hole in blank area of board and zip-tie the wires down if you want direct solder connection.

then you can just mount the board onto the panel via stand-offs.

[JohnRoberts]

I have actually heard reports of hot melt on caps melting and flowing due to the caps heating up. High ripple current can actually heat up capacitors, in power supplies.

JR

[Tallowah]

Originally Posted by JohnRoberts

I have actually heard reports of hot melt on caps melting and flowing due to the caps heating up. High ripple current can actually heat up capacitors, in power supplies.

JR

Most "household" adhesives contain chemicals which react with/degrade electrolytics. That info can be found on the manufacturers parts/precautions sheet...

Plastic caps don't pose this problem but then again, I'm not sure why you'd need reinforcement for small plastic/film
capacitors. Large electrolytics may need additional reinforcement (clamps) if vibration is a concern.


For just about everything else, household glue is fine. I just avoid it for electrolytics.


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[JohnRoberts]

Originally Posted by Tallowah

Most "household" adhesives contain chemicals which react with/degrade electrolytics. That info can be found on the manufacturers parts/precautions sheet...

I've used lots of electrolytic caps over the years, and taken my share of them apart to troubleshoot problems. I have never heard of them being damaged by secondary attachment methods. The electrolytic caps are generally inside a metal can with a rubber bung in the end to hold the electrolyte in, so I suspect anything that degrades rubber "might" be an issue.

Plastic caps don't pose this problem but then again, I'm not sure why you'd need reinforcement for small plastic/film
capacitors. Large electrolytics may need additional reinforcement (clamps) if vibration is a concern.

I have lost large film caps on the shaker table test, but these were larger mylar caps (up to .33uF).

For just about everything else, household glue is fine. I just avoid it for electrolytics.


`

I don't recall the brand name but there are commercial adhesives designed for that purpose.

JR

[Tallowah]

Originally Posted by JohnRoberts

I've used lots of electrolytic caps over the years, and taken my share of them apart to troubleshoot problems. I have never heard of them being damaged by secondary attachment methods. The electrolytic caps are generally inside a metal can with a rubber bung in the end to hold the electrolyte in, so I suspect anything that degrades rubber "might" be an issue.

Not onlt that but they're also hermatically sealed & shrink wrapped... Yet they still leak, dry out and react w/certain chemicals... Here's a quote directly from Nichicon's aluminum electrolytic capacitor user guide -->

"...When a halide substance seeps into the aluminum electrolytic capacitor: The halide dissolves and frees halogen ions. RX+H2O a ROH + H+ + X; Also, the following reaction (Electricity cauterization reaction) can occur -->AL + 3X- a ALX3 + 3e-ALX3 + 3H20 a AL (OH)3 + 3H+ + 3X
When this reaction is repeated, the leakage current increases and the safety vent will be activated and may lead to open vent. Because of this, halogen type adhesive material and coating material is not recommended for usage..." http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/pr...f/aluminum.pdf

Originally Posted by JohnRoberts

I don't recall the brand name but there are commercial adhesives designed for that purpose. JR

Yes, there are a few but from what I gathered, we were talking about using common type adhesives for added mechanical support (like hot melt glue) Many of these, (not all), contain halides which can damage electrolytics.


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[ddageek]

Originally Posted by Matt Syson

Hi
Fit a 'tie bar' on the panel and rewire it neatly using heatshrink or silicone ruber sleeves on the joints to reduce risk of shorts.
If the inner cores of the wire are seriously too thick for connecting to your switches, use a bit of thinner gauge wire which is suitably insulated using heatshrink tagged onto the ends.
Matt S

I think I went to the Matt Syson School on this one!
The solder joint and mechanical joint should be separate, and good shrink should provide some strain relief and insulation.

The sad part about a joint where glue or some other adhesive is used is when your fixing some other geniuses work!

[audioconsult]

its not ideal to use glue for anything in a technical apparatus.. but when you cant avoid it heatglue is at least pretty easy to remove in comparison to others..asl long you use the elastic transparent type...