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Old 30th June 2006   #1
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DIY Stepped Attenuator

I've been thinking about replacing the M-Patch between my Rosetta 200 and Hafler P4000 with a stepped attenuator, which i think I would like to build.

I searching for DIY kits and plans, I ran across this remote controlled/ auto switching kit that runs about the same price as some of the manual rotary switched attenuators.

http://www.welbornelabs.com/remote.htm

This design seems pretty cool feature wise. It is unbalanced in it basic form, but has an options to upgrade for balanced operation,option for 5 switchable inputs, can be modified to include switches on the box, not just a remote, which I would most definitely do.

While my soldering and DIY assembly skills are solid, my attenuator network design knowledge is still in its infancy, so I thought maybe I could turn to the real geekslutz to check out this design and chime in with your thoughts. Am I better off sticking with a tradition rotary switch, or is this design worth my time and money?

much thanks

d
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Old 30th June 2006   #2
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check www.goldpt.com

not cheap, but worth it. I built a unit using their product - my PT-rig improved more then I could believe...

Cheers,
Stefan
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Old 30th June 2006   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanM
check www.goldpt.com

not cheap, but worth it. I built a unit using their product - my PT-rig improved more then I could believe...

Cheers,
Stefan
yes, I definitely have had them in mind as well, great website also.

Care to share details on your implementation of their attenuators, housing in particular?
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Old 30th June 2006   #4
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I will be offline for some days, but p.m. me for details if you like...

I used an old crystal denoiser case, a custom frontplate and a self-designed relay-board for my controller.

Stefan
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Old 1st July 2006   #5
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Also check

www.dact.com they make some pretty good ones too.
If you are really in to soldering one up from scratch you could look into the stepped attenuators from elna make sure to buy the make before break version. and of course top notch resistors. the ladder type is the best for audio quality. but i have not met anyone who could tell the difference in sound. the fact is the audio passes through only one or 2 resisitors in a ladder type. In a series type it will pass through more resistors if you attenuate more.

I saw the site and what is that tube doing there on the picture? and there are lots of condensers and ic's on the boards check if they not ruin your signal path if they are in you might be better of with a good old rotary switch.
wich does not necceserally mean that is is bad if they are used just for switching it is no prob.
also check if the setup is right for passive volume control and take out the pre amp you are using and check if you can get the signal loud enough (CAREFULL IF THE POWER AMP IS GOOD THIS CAN GET LOUOUD)

greets!
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