Yamaha HS80m Mod

[talon]

Just came across this:

Yamaha HS50M for hifi - diyAudio

Would replacing the original transformer for a toroidal improve the sound? Hoping someone with EE experience can chime in!

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

There are plenty other things, easier and cheaper to do, that would improve the sound, before replacing the transformer.

[talon]

Care to elaborate?

Room acoustics and speaker placement have already been dealt with extensively.

[fooddude]

Finally ordered a new pair of HS-50m's today. I decided for sure I will do 2 mods - disable the limiter and also replace the opamps.

Is only replacing the opamps and not replacing the Electrolytic or polypropylene capacitors advisable/doable? I only want to replace the opamps, mainly because they're easily identifiable by their shape, since I am a n00b at electrical work.. so I don't know how many, which exact type nor too good at reading schematics to properly replace certain/diff caps (tho I've soldered a couple times on my synths; but don't know much about caps, electrical, etc).

So my question are:
-Can i just replace the opamps, and not the Electrolytic/polypropylene caps?
-How many opamps should I buy total per monitor?
-Any other parts I should get to put on my mod list? If yes, quantity of them also please?

I'm just going to just get all Burr Brown OPA2134 opamps, since they've already been known and tried in the Yammies to work good (unless someone wants to convince me other wise to use diff opamps, such as the 2132, 1642, 5532, etc (tho I've read the 2134 work much better than the 1642's in the Yammies; though I am unsure of the 2132's nor 5532's (first and last circuits? - IC101 IC 104)).

[living sounds]

Changing op amps in an existing design without the ability to properly test and lacking deep knowledge about electronics isn't a great idea. Been there, done that.

[DGByrne]

Just did the limiter snip on my HS80ms and they sound a lot better, but was wondering if the HS10w sub I pair them with has a built in limiter too...? And if anyone knows where it is I'd need to snip...?

Thanks!

DGB

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by living sounds

Changing op amps in an existing design without the ability to properly test and lacking deep knowledge about electronics isn't a great idea. Been there, done that.

But replacing the caps is fine? I'm debating doing this and leaving the opamps. Either that or sell them but they are good reference monitors although they lack in resolution but if it can be improved with a bit of soldering it's worth doing.

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by DGByrne

Just did the limiter snip on my HS80ms and they sound a lot better, but was wondering if the HS10w sub I pair them with has a built in limiter too...? And if anyone knows where it is I'd need to snip...?

Thanks!

DGB

Yeah it does make em a better monitor but are you sure you wanna do that?

[hymenoptera]

Originally Posted by Aerophone

Would swapping the active filter caps for lower tolerance ones like styroflex 2,5%, o some 1% ones, improve imaging? Since were reducing difference in a pair of speakers response i think it could make any sense.

IMO never a bad idea to set your meter to uF and compare caps on any stereo device(s) where a signal is concerned.

I'm no EE, but it's just occurred to me in practice that when dealing with caps and resistors, we buy these things 10 or more at a time, so it's nothing to sit down and meter each one and set them aside into matched pairs when working with stereo gear like this. find two that are the closest and call it a pair.

again i'm no engineer or tech, but 1% Rs and caps can be incredibly tight if you take the time to match them. For instance I got >1000 Chinese 1% metal film Rs, various values, and it blew me away how close some of these are in tolerance, some showing identical(!) on my Fluke 77mkIV. So you might as well match them up.
</talking out of my arse>

[Gradius2]

After a lot researching 2132/2134 do almost nothing, they won't stand out well. Of course they are still better than 4558, so I decided for AD8086.

My question is, anyone tried them on those speakers? It was necessary to perform any additional changes on +/- them?

[DGByrne]

Originally Posted by musikmaschine

Yeah it does make em a better monitor but are you sure you wanna do that?

Already did! And, to me, the gains were worth it. I also don't drive them very loud, so the trade-off (possibly blowing the speakers if driven too loud) was one I was happy to take.

BUT, I was actually asking about the sub I pair them with - the HS10W. Does anyone know if it has a built-in limiter circuit? I'm not well versed in reading a schematic...

THANKS!

DGB

[Gradius2]

You have the HS10W schematics? If so, send me or post link (use mediafire).

[Gradius2]

You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by DGByrne

Already did! And, to me, the gains were worth it. I also don't drive them very loud, so the trade-off (possibly blowing the speakers if driven too loud) was one I was happy to take.

BUT, I was actually asking about the sub I pair them with - the HS10W. Does anyone know if it has a built-in limiter circuit? I'm not well versed in reading a schematic...

THANKS!

DGB

I meant the sub, i've done the bypass myself. I'm kidding really, are you noticing an issue with the sub bass?

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by Gradius2

You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).

I know, i was just urging caution with the sub.

[Gradius2]

The components arrived (including opamps). Can't wait to perform the mod.

Btw, I already did the limit off, and there is an instant difference.

I will change the caps with Muse Gold (aka KZ) too.

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by Gradius2

The components arrived (including opamps). Can't wait to perform the mod.

Btw, I already did the limit off, and there is an instant difference.

I will change the caps with Muse Gold (aka KZ) too.

Excellent, please post an update as i'm thinking of keeping mine and doing the mod. Which opamps are you using?

[Gradius2]

Originally Posted by musikmaschine

Excellent, please post an update as i'm thinking of keeping mine and doing the mod. Which opamps are you using?

I went with OPA2132, the other I mentioned is better as headphone. For headphone I already use Bursons (best option available).

I'm listen to the speakers as I write this with OPA2132 + Gold caps, they are singing now!

So far, just 12h on burn in. I will fully know the quality when 100h passes. Until now is a whole new monitors! Like over $2K/pair.

Update: you don't need decopling at all, they are ALREADY decopled!

[musikmaschine]

Originally Posted by Gradius2

I went with OPA2132, the other I mentioned is better as headphone. For headphone I already use Bursons (best option available).

I'm listen to the speakers as I write this with OPA2132 + Gold caps, they are singing now!

So far, just 12h on burn in. I will fully know the quality when 100h passes. Until now is a whole new monitors! Like over $2K/pair.

Update: you don't need decopling at all, they are ALREADY decopled!

Thanks. What do you mean by decopled?

[DGByrne]

Originally Posted by Gradius2

You have the HS10W schematics? If so, send me or post link (use mediafire).

Sorry! I don't. Was hoping someone here maybe did, or knew about it.

Originally Posted by Gradius2

You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).

I think you're saying the sub doesn't need a limiter...? Sorry bit of a noob when it comes to nutz and voltz....

I meant the sub, i've done the bypass myself. I'm kidding really, are you noticing an issue with the sub bass?

No, I don't notice an issue. Just wanted to make sure it still matched the monitors after the snip!

I know, i was just urging caution with the sub.

Agreed. Safety first!

So, I think it's decided then... There's no limiter in the sub?

Thanks everyone!

DGB