Yamaha HS80m Mod
#31
8th August 2012
Old 8th August 2012
  #31
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Just came across this:

Yamaha HS50M for hifi - diyAudio

Would replacing the original transformer for a toroidal improve the sound? Hoping someone with EE experience can chime in!
#32
9th August 2012
Old 9th August 2012
  #32
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There are plenty other things, easier and cheaper to do, that would improve the sound, before replacing the transformer.
#33
9th August 2012
Old 9th August 2012
  #33
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Care to elaborate?

Room acoustics and speaker placement have already been dealt with extensively.
#34
23rd October 2012
Old 23rd October 2012
  #34
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Finally ordered a new pair of HS-50m's today. I decided for sure I will do 2 mods - disable the limiter and also replace the opamps.

Is only replacing the opamps and not replacing the Electrolytic or polypropylene capacitors advisable/doable? I only want to replace the opamps, mainly because they're easily identifiable by their shape, since I am a n00b at electrical work.. so I don't know how many, which exact type nor too good at reading schematics to properly replace certain/diff caps (tho I've soldered a couple times on my synths; but don't know much about caps, electrical, etc).

So my question are:
-Can i just replace the opamps, and not the Electrolytic/polypropylene caps?
-How many opamps should I buy total per monitor?
-Any other parts I should get to put on my mod list? If yes, quantity of them also please?

I'm just going to just get all Burr Brown OPA2134 opamps, since they've already been known and tried in the Yammies to work good (unless someone wants to convince me other wise to use diff opamps, such as the 2132, 1642, 5532, etc (tho I've read the 2134 work much better than the 1642's in the Yammies; though I am unsure of the 2132's nor 5532's (first and last circuits? - IC101 IC 104)).
#35
24th October 2012
Old 24th October 2012
  #35
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Changing op amps in an existing design without the ability to properly test and lacking deep knowledge about electronics isn't a great idea. Been there, done that.
#36
9th December 2012
Old 9th December 2012
  #36
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HS10W mod?

Just did the limiter snip on my HS80ms and they sound a lot better, but was wondering if the HS10w sub I pair them with has a built in limiter too...? And if anyone knows where it is I'd need to snip...?

Thanks!

DGB
#37
18th December 2012
Old 18th December 2012
  #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by living sounds View Post
Changing op amps in an existing design without the ability to properly test and lacking deep knowledge about electronics isn't a great idea. Been there, done that.
But replacing the caps is fine? I'm debating doing this and leaving the opamps. Either that or sell them but they are good reference monitors although they lack in resolution but if it can be improved with a bit of soldering it's worth doing.
#38
18th December 2012
Old 18th December 2012
  #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGByrne View Post
Just did the limiter snip on my HS80ms and they sound a lot better, but was wondering if the HS10w sub I pair them with has a built in limiter too...? And if anyone knows where it is I'd need to snip...?

Thanks!

DGB
Yeah it does make em a better monitor but are you sure you wanna do that?
#39
19th December 2012
Old 19th December 2012
  #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerophone View Post
Would swapping the active filter caps for lower tolerance ones like styroflex 2,5%, o some 1% ones, improve imaging? Since were reducing difference in a pair of speakers response i think it could make any sense.
IMO never a bad idea to set your meter to uF and compare caps on any stereo device(s) where a signal is concerned.

I'm no EE, but it's just occurred to me in practice that when dealing with caps and resistors, we buy these things 10 or more at a time, so it's nothing to sit down and meter each one and set them aside into matched pairs when working with stereo gear like this. find two that are the closest and call it a pair.

again i'm no engineer or tech, but 1% Rs and caps can be incredibly tight if you take the time to match them. For instance I got >1000 Chinese 1% metal film Rs, various values, and it blew me away how close some of these are in tolerance, some showing identical(!) on my Fluke 77mkIV. So you might as well match them up.
</talking out of my arse>
#40
21st December 2012
Old 21st December 2012
  #40
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After a lot researching 2132/2134 do almost nothing, they won't stand out well. Of course they are still better than 4558, so I decided for AD8086.

My question is, anyone tried them on those speakers? It was necessary to perform any additional changes on +/- them?
#41
21st December 2012
Old 21st December 2012
  #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musikmaschine View Post
Yeah it does make em a better monitor but are you sure you wanna do that?
Already did! And, to me, the gains were worth it. I also don't drive them very loud, so the trade-off (possibly blowing the speakers if driven too loud) was one I was happy to take.

BUT, I was actually asking about the sub I pair them with - the HS10W. Does anyone know if it has a built-in limiter circuit? I'm not well versed in reading a schematic...

THANKS!

DGB
#42
21st December 2012
Old 21st December 2012
  #42
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You have the HS10W schematics? If so, send me or post link (use mediafire).
#43
21st December 2012
Old 21st December 2012
  #43
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You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).
#44
23rd December 2012
Old 23rd December 2012
  #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGByrne View Post
Already did! And, to me, the gains were worth it. I also don't drive them very loud, so the trade-off (possibly blowing the speakers if driven too loud) was one I was happy to take.

BUT, I was actually asking about the sub I pair them with - the HS10W. Does anyone know if it has a built-in limiter circuit? I'm not well versed in reading a schematic...

THANKS!

DGB
I meant the sub, i've done the bypass myself. I'm kidding really, are you noticing an issue with the sub bass?
#45
23rd December 2012
Old 23rd December 2012
  #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).
I know, i was just urging caution with the sub.
#46
29th December 2012
Old 29th December 2012
  #46
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The components arrived (including opamps). Can't wait to perform the mod.

Btw, I already did the limit off, and there is an instant difference.

I will change the caps with Muse Gold (aka KZ) too.
#47
29th December 2012
Old 29th December 2012
  #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
The components arrived (including opamps). Can't wait to perform the mod.

Btw, I already did the limit off, and there is an instant difference.

I will change the caps with Muse Gold (aka KZ) too.
Excellent, please post an update as i'm thinking of keeping mine and doing the mod. Which opamps are you using?
#48
5th January 2013
Old 5th January 2013
  #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musikmaschine View Post
Excellent, please post an update as i'm thinking of keeping mine and doing the mod. Which opamps are you using?
I went with OPA2132, the other I mentioned is better as headphone. For headphone I already use Bursons (best option available).

I'm listen to the speakers as I write this with OPA2132 + Gold caps, they are singing now!

So far, just 12h on burn in. I will fully know the quality when 100h passes. Until now is a whole new monitors! Like over $2K/pair.

Update: you don't need decopling at all, they are ALREADY decopled!
#49
16th January 2013
Old 16th January 2013
  #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
I went with OPA2132, the other I mentioned is better as headphone. For headphone I already use Bursons (best option available).

I'm listen to the speakers as I write this with OPA2132 + Gold caps, they are singing now!

So far, just 12h on burn in. I will fully know the quality when 100h passes. Until now is a whole new monitors! Like over $2K/pair.

Update: you don't need decopling at all, they are ALREADY decopled!
Thanks. What do you mean by decopled?
#50
20th January 2013
Old 20th January 2013
  #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
You have the HS10W schematics? If so, send me or post link (use mediafire).
Sorry! I don't. Was hoping someone here maybe did, or knew about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
You can't "blow up" the woofer, the distortion would be too much to bare before a possible "blow up".

Specs:
Tweeter: 29W @ 8 Ohms (AMP: 38W @ 8 Ohms @ 28V)
Woofer : 58W @ 4 Ohms (AMP: 68W @ 4 Ohms @ 28V)

As you can see, they are driving @ 30V each so is already above the limit, at least for tweeter (w/o any changes or modding).
I think you're saying the sub doesn't need a limiter...? Sorry bit of a noob when it comes to nutz and voltz....

Quote:
I meant the sub, i've done the bypass myself. I'm kidding really, are you noticing an issue with the sub bass?
No, I don't notice an issue. Just wanted to make sure it still matched the monitors after the snip!

Quote:
I know, i was just urging caution with the sub.
Agreed. Safety first!

So, I think it's decided then... There's no limiter in the sub?

Thanks everyone!

DGB
F5D
#51
13th October 2013
Old 13th October 2013
  #51
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I just ordered a pair of HS7's and will mod them when they arrive. It is very likely that they use a similar circuit as HS50/HS80. Can you tell which package type Yamaha use for the opamps, are they SO-8 or some other?

Nevermind, ordered opamps of several types as SO-8. I will replace the electrolytics too, but need to see inside first what I need to order. I believe the new HS series have 1 opamp less due to the missing high cut and middle eq.
#52
13th October 2013
Old 13th October 2013
  #52
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So who's the Mike Jolly of monitor mods?

I have HS80's but 0 experience in EE. Would like to try these ideas out but worried my lack of knowledge will damage something beyond repair.

On the plus side, I know how to use a solder lol.
F5D
#53
17th October 2013
Old 17th October 2013
  #53
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Anobydy happen to have the service manual of the new HS series? I will get the HS7s soon. I believe I will first use them for a while to learn their stock sound and then do the modification. I already got the opamps. I will probably use a mix of OPA2134 and OPA1642, replace the dc decoupling caps, and PSU caps after the regulators with panasonic fm, add ceramic caps close to the opamps, and disable the limiter.
#54
29th November 2013
Old 29th November 2013
  #54
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Here you go:
HS80M & HS50M schematics

The only thing I need to do now is replace the transformer with a Toroidal one (230V).

The mod is really worth!
#55
31st December 2013
Old 31st December 2013
  #55
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I havn't done any recaps or opamp swaps, but I can tell you it took me 5 mins to cut that limiter jumper and the improvement on these monitors was insane.....

If you plan on just doing the jumper cut, if you want to be able to really see if it's making a difference, just do one speaker, hook it back up, and you don't have to turn the volume up very much until start to notice the stereo image gravitating towards the modded speaker.

Tons of punch and the damn thing starts to resemble what I would call an NS10.... for which it was created to resemble....... I can understand why they would put in a protector circuit, but it's completely beyond my comprehension as to why Yamaha would allow it to start compressing the transients at 75db......... that's where I starting to hear the stereo image shift over..... 75db.

I've got proacs too.... so I run the risk of popping speakers every day, so if you're going to do this, on your volume controller put a stop so that you can't go over a certain amount by accident. I've got the hs80s the same level as the proacs and I put a stop so it prevents me from going too high on both.

If you don't do anything else, take 5 mins and chop that flipping circuit protection wire, they actually sound like decent speakers now. I couldn't stand them before and had them in a closet.
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