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| | #1 |
| Gear Head Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 36
Thread Starter | Different materials for caps and resistors
So my question is what are advantages and disadvantages to using The diffent types of caps and resistors? Any good links would be nice too. |
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| | #2 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Hickory, MS
Posts: 2,047
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If you compare data sheets that will give you the literal answer. Design preferences are are bit more complex and often influenced by opinions. JR |
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| | #3 |
| Gear Head Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 36
Thread Starter |
I'll look at some specs and see what I come up with. Doyou have any prefrances?
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| | #4 |
| Gear interested Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3
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As far as I know, the jury is still out on this one, at least as far as both parties can not come to an agreement or middle ground. Use your ears and find out what you like best. The deal with metal film resistors is that they can withstand higher wattages and have tighter tolerances. They are the ideal part if you want to build a lot of things that sound the same with little variance. Some people just think they don't sound very good... Carbon composition resistors have lower wattage ratings, and can often add distortion in and of themselves, which can change the sound for good or bad. You decide. Film capacitors are supposed to be much more efficient at both blocking DC and passing AC unhindered, while other types can be leaky and pass DC where it should not go. Film caps also have very high voltage tolerances per unit µF when compared to some other cap types. Film caps also tend to have a very low k value, which means that they tend to be very large... so they are not the ideal part for every use. Lots of older "mojo" units have been created using all ceramic disc capacitors too... so don't discount them as well. Ceramic disc caps tend to have very high tolerance ratings, and their voltage ratings need to be checked before purchase because some of the cheaper ones have low ratings and these can tend to self-oscillate. |
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| | #5 | |
| Gear addict Joined: Jan 2011 Location: local group, virgo supercluster
Posts: 332
| Quote:
SG-Acoustics | |
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| | #6 |
| Gear addict |
If you don’t hear a difference.......who cares!
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| | #7 | |
| Gear addict Joined: Apr 2009 Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 438
| Quote: | |
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| | #8 |
| Gear addict Joined: Jan 2011 Location: local group, virgo supercluster
Posts: 332
| He has lots of diy plans too, or plans at least, I could never ever finish one of his designs. 240dB gain discrete opamp |
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| | #9 | |
| Gear addict Joined: Apr 2009 Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 438
| Quote:
__________________ www.customanalogservices.com | |
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| | #10 |
| Gear interested Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 20
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Heya, Resistors: For critical audio applications use wire-wound, like in a preamp. For general audio use metal film. If you need some pull up / down resistors for logic carbon are fine. Capacitors: For critical timing use Polystyrene, (filters / timers). For general audio polypropylene is fine. Only use ceramic for decoupling caps, (the 0.1uf caps that you keep next to the chips to reduce switching noise). Electrolytics for power supplies, generally you want to use low ESR ones if you have any digital circuitry or anything high frequency pulling current. For say a tube amp supply I don't think you have to worry about low ESR caps. Electrolytics are OK for audio coupling, but the capacitor has a kind of "ghost memory" that can cause some minor distortion. So for the ultimate in coupling use polypropylene or metal film caps. Or get really posh and use a transformer. I skipped over many details, but really this is the bones of it. |
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