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Old 17th January 2012   #1
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Decent soldering iron?

I bought a cheap one for around £30 a while ago and it wasn't even hot enough to melt the solder!!!

Can anyone recommend one to me? It's purley to make/repair audio leads.

Many thanks guys & gals

x
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Old 17th January 2012   #2
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Hi
I use an ANTEX 50 Watt temperature controlled iron for when I am 'out and about'.
These are around 50 quid in the UK (or were until recently).
Weller 50 Watt temp controlled (TCP1 24 Volt) when 'at home'.
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Old 17th January 2012   #3
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http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WESD51-...uct/B000ARU9PO

Love mine!
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Old 17th January 2012   #4
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ANTEX are pretty good. you need different temperatures for different applications. soldering a lead to a plug isn't the same as soldering a PCB component.

ANTEX have ceramic cores so if you drop them there's no wire to break.

often the watts can be associated with how fast the iron can reheat itself.
not how hot the iron actually gets. this is useful if you are trying to attach a thick lead to a thick metal lug etc.

The one you have may be ok for PCB components.
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Old 17th January 2012   #5
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Hi
The Antexes are good and light.
The element does break if you bend it, I have damaged 2 over the years cramming it into a flightcase full of stuff.
The temp controlled ones have a little adjuster on the side so you dial up the temp you want.
You can get large spade bits for heavy work or thin ones for delicate stuff.
50 Watts is sufficient for quite thick cables (4mm using a heavy bit) easily but it takes a while for the heat to get through.
Only burned out 1 Weller element in 35 years although buckled a few of the barrels and of course replaced tips.
Matt S
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Old 17th January 2012   #6
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If you are in the USA, you can get a nice temp controlled solder station for around 40 bucks.

MCM Electronics: Home and Pro Audio/Video, Security and Test Equipment
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Old 17th January 2012   #7
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Hakko 936 £70 to your door on ebay.
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Old 17th January 2012   #8
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If your on the road or do lot of gigs there is only one to get BUT shit its gone up loads since I got mine 20 years ago I pay around £50 but then its still going strong after a lot of abuse And if your in tight spot cordless Amazing no need for leads just click (light first time every time) and woooooo they make that funny noise just not sure about tight surface mount PCB stuff ware heat damage mite be prob being non temp controlled

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Old 17th January 2012   #9
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I second the Hakko 936.
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Old 17th January 2012   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22Dan View Post
I bought a cheap one for around £30 a while ago and it wasn't even hot enough to melt the solder!!!

Can anyone recommend one to me? It's purley to make/repair audio leads.

Many thanks guys & gals

x
This is my travelling iron. I keep one around the shop, too, as it can take a large tip and really shines on the heavy soldering jobs. Would be great for cables.
GootPX-201 lead free soldering iron temperature controlled.
Best,
Ike
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Old 17th January 2012   #11
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There are basically two types of soldering iron.
The ones with a base, and the ones without.
The bench types with a transformer in the base are (should be) isolated from the mains, and temp. controlled, so therefore also suitable for sensitive equipment (with antistatic wristband).
Most of them come with a temp adjustment.
The ones without base (including pistol types) shouldn't be used for sensitive parts. Gas types excluded.
Most of them have no temp control.
The power (watts) needed depends on the size of the work, but temp. controlled ones can be higher, because they turn on/off when the set temp. is reached.
Temp. controlled irons give a better result, because the iron can't get too hot to burn the flux too quickly, while still having the power to solder thick wires.
Leo..
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Old 18th January 2012   #12
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I use the hakko 936 it's great
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Old 18th January 2012   #13
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- Get a name brand like Hakko, Weller, etc.
- Get one with the separate base, and cleaning sponge/wire
- Variable temperature is nice, but tip controlled is fine for making cables
- Replace the tip with a wedge/screwdriver type as it will have much better heat transfer than the conical tip most come with.
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Old 18th January 2012   #14
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I have a nice temp controlled solder station, but since jr high school I've had a two temp Weller... I think you could assemble tin cans with it... that is just fine for making guitar or mic cables. Surely these things don't cost 30 pounds?
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Old 26th January 2012   #15
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Im Not trying to high jack your thread but what kind or kinds of solder do you guys like useing for building high end analog audio gear and cables?

Zack
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Old 26th January 2012   #16
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My antex 15 watt is perfect for the small component and cable soldering I do..I still socket my IC's, though!
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Old 27th January 2012   #17
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I have always been a Weller fan. The W61D is a nice all rounder. You can change the temp by means of different tips. This has been my field iron for many years & has not given me one day's problems.
I highly recommend it & you can buy most spares for it too.
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Old 28th January 2012   #18
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I've got a £30 maplins one which does the trick for most things (cables, dry joints, etc). I've found using a wider flatter tip as opposed to a very thin one works well. I wouldn't use it for soldering up an entire pcb or circuit though just because you risk damaging components and the board itself.

Might be worth looking into a Weller one if you can spend a bit more. They come up on Ebay quite a bit if you want one cheaper.
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Old 29th January 2012   #19
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no one

buy some better solder ....

sn 63
pb 37
.015

or something closer to this

this stuff is alright to work with
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Old 29th January 2012   #20
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Weller WESD51 has been great so far, I would recommend it.
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Old 29th January 2012   #21
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i know the irons are ok, but i spent a few extra bucks on a soldering gun... i think those are best since they have a trigger to turn them on and off... plus the tips are better imo... for about $30+ u can cop one..

Weller Soldering Gun

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-To...&storeId=10051

da relic
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Old 29th January 2012   #22
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Love the Hakko 936. I have 4 different tips for it but I use the stock tip 99% of the time. The only time I need to change to a larger tip is when you need to desolder power caps from a large ground plane.
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