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Old 3rd January 2012   #31
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Originally Posted by dcollins View Post
If you are soldering to a Silver connector you should use Silver-bearing solder to prevent embrittlement. Other than the cost, there is no reason not to use the 2% alloy.

Imagine doing a A/B test where the only difference in the whole, entire, console mod was the type of solder used. It's pretty impressive to go to such lengths.


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Oh! Oh!
This is sooooooo geeeeeky; someone please give it a roll!
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Old 3rd January 2012   #32
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Oh! Oh!
This is sooooooo geeeeeky; someone please give it a roll!
Jim has done it. The clients were happy; case closed.


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Old 4th January 2012   #33
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I use the 10 foot run of lead/tin solder as an example. That's about how much tin/lead your audio goes through in an average mid sized analog console. Therefore it is a relevant test. Whether entirely in series or broken up by a few hundred feet of tin plated copper traces, that's what your music is going through.

I don't suggest it be used as a speaker cable, the idea was to use it as a line level feed to the popular active monitors so many have latched onto in recent years. Just don't short out the two runs.

If you don't hear any difference, carry on. Wash your hands as lead is deadly.
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Old 4th January 2012   #34
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I use the 10 foot run of lead/tin solder as an example. That's about how much tin/lead your audio goes through in an average mid sized analog console. Therefore it is a relevant test.
How do you terminate the solder to the connectors in these tests?


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Old 5th January 2012   #35
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How do you terminate the solder to the connectors in these tests?
Crimp, or use a solder with a lower melting point.

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Old 5th January 2012   #36
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Originally Posted by neil.johnson View Post
Crimp, or use a solder with a lower melting point.
Which begs the obvious question: "What's the best type of solder to solder to solder?"


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Old 5th January 2012   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcollins View Post
Which begs the obvious question: "What's the best type of solder to solder to solder?"


DC
2% Silver
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Old 6th January 2012   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcollins View Post
How do you terminate the solder to the connectors in these tests?
DC
Wrap it around the connector? Thought yous guys were 'engineers'?

If you insist on soldering a piece of solder, use a very low tip temperature and use some Quick-chip low temp solder, if you are that anal to try it.

You won't. You are either too lazy or love the sound of lead too much. Doubting Thom's are so common in audio these days.

Unlike some, I experiment constantly. That came from engineering for some very creative folks back in the glory days of audio. They taught me well.
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Old 6th January 2012   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams View Post
Wrap it around the connector? Thought yous guys were 'engineers'?
Yes, that sounds pretty robust.

Quote:
You won't. You are either too lazy or love the sound of lead too much. Doubting Thom's are so common in audio these days.
Actually I've already pondered how to do this test correctly. And, based on what I see here there is not nearly enough doubting going on.

Everything is just taken at face value: This part sounds good, this one sounds bad. All designs are flawed, all mods are better etc..........

Quote:
Unlike some, I experiment constantly. That came from engineering for some very creative folks back in the glory days of audio. They taught me well.
Ahh yes the glory days, when regular wire, solder, and components were used. Decisions were never faith-based?

How did they even get anything to tape?


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Old 12th January 2012   #40
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I use Cardas Quad Eutectic, there's a seller on eBay I get it from for about $10 for 20 feet (bulk). Really easy to work with (my only reason to work with it, no comment on the "sound" of solder).
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