Parts for Radford Valve Hi Fi amp
Old 12th December 2011
  #1
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DanDan's Avatar
 

Thread Starter
Parts for Radford Valve Hi Fi amp

I have pulled an old Hi Fi amp out of a closet, literally. I am nicely surprised to find it is highly valued. They are going for £1500 and more on ebay.co.uk

I intend selling it but wish to tart it up a tad.
NOS input tubes and better looking phono inputs.
I am looking for a supplier for the phono inputs, and the main electrolytic capacitor. 50+50, 500V
Please take a look at the pictures to see the bits which need replacing. (and the amazing FR graphs and THD measurements)
Radford Sta15 Valve Amplifier For Sale in Douglas, Cork. Buy Home Audio

DD
Old 12th December 2011
  #2
Gear interested
 
rob f's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_Case View Post
The used vintage hi-fi equipment market is very fickle and acts more like a market for museum pieces than a market for audio gear. If you modify the equipment in any manner including doing a simple recap job just to get an old piece to sound decent again, expect the resale value to fall significantly. That's just how it is. Lot's of vintage gear collectors want pristine show pieces first, and functional audio equipment second.
agree !
Old 13th December 2011
  #3
Gear interested
 

I don't mean to bust your chops, but I was interested in buying it for my collection until I looked at the pictures. For a collector like me, you hurt the value considerably with those speaker binding posts you installed. I realize they're better then the original interconnects, but if performance was the only factor I can buy or build modern tube gear for a lot less money.
Din't change the RCA input jacks!
Yes, I want the old crappy connectors that were used by the factory on my old gear.

Peace,
DrRick


[
QUOTE=DanDan;7321449]I have pulled an old Hi Fi amp out of a closet, literally. I am nicely surprised to find it is highly valued. They are going for £1500 and more on ebay.co.uk

I intend selling it but wish to tart it up a tad.
NOS input tubes and better looking phono inputs.
I am looking for a supplier for the phono inputs, and the main electrolytic capacitor. 50+50, 500V
Please take a look at the pictures to see the bits which need replacing. (and the amazing FR graphs and THD measurements)
Radford Sta15 Valve Amplifier For Sale in Douglas, Cork. Buy Home Audio

DD[/QUOTE]
Old 13th December 2011
  #4
Gear Guru
 
DanDan's Avatar
 

Thread Starter
Broken

I hear you. Others have advised the same. I changed them some time ago, I think because one of the old ones had snapped off. That's my story anyhow....
:-)
I sold the amp today for €1200 to a guy fairly nearby. I am apprehensive about the swollen, physically leaking cap though.
I told the guy I would install a replacement in the future.
It is a Plessey unit, the original.
40 plus 40 MicroFarads. 500V.
I have a 50+50, 500 V, new, no name, physically shorter but same diameter.
I would have thought 50 is better but could some valve expert let me know if this is OK or not please?
Also, if 40 is mandatory, where to get that hens tooth?
DD
Old 13th December 2011
  #5
Gear interested
 

The 50+50 UF unit will be fine.
I know this is over the top, but when I have to replace capacitors I will often cut open the original and "re-stuff" it.
While originality is important, a cap that doesn't "capasitate" is worthless if you have any thought of actually using the gear. And, as I'm sure you know, capacitors don't last forever and must be replaced to preserve the functionality of the gear, not to mention reliability.
All this is mostly with collectable HiFi gear. With vintage studio gear it doesn't seem to matter to most people.
Now, you don't have to repeat my insanity with the re-stuffing. You can always hide the new cap under the chassis and leave the original one in place for looks.

Peace,
DrRick

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDan View Post
I hear you. Others have advised the same. I changed them some time ago, I think because one of the old ones had snapped off. That's my story anyhow....
:-)
I sold the amp today for €1200 to a guy fairly nearby. I am apprehensive about the swollen, physically leaking cap though.
I told the guy I would install a replacement in the future.
It is a Plessey unit, the original.
40 plus 40 MicroFarads. 500V.
I have a 50+50, 500 V, new, no name, physically shorter but same diameter.
I would have thought 50 is better but could some valve expert let me know if this is OK or not please?
Also, if 40 is mandatory, where to get that hens tooth?
DD
Old 15th December 2011
  #6
Gear Guru
 
DanDan's Avatar
 

Thread Starter
Valves

Thanks for the comments.
If any has a source of supply for a decent looking 50+50 please chirp in.
I will let the new owner work away with the current one for a month or two, then ask him to check for leakage. There has been some in the past but it appeared to stop. What I am really concerned about here is an explosion or fire or a failing cap taking our some other components.
There are probably a few subscribers here who may need NOS and other exotic valves. This guy is real and honest. High Fidelity Tubes
DD
Old 16th December 2011
  #7
Gear addict
 

[QUOTE=DrRick;7328040]I don't mean to bust your chops, but I was interested in buying it for my collection until I looked at the pictures. For a collector like me, you hurt the value considerably with those speaker binding posts you installed. I realize they're better then the original interconnects, but if performance was the only factor I can buy or build modern tube gear for a lot less money.
Din't change the RCA input jacks!
Yes, I want the old crappy connectors that were used by the factory on my old gear.

Peace,
DrRick


What’s the big deal in keeping something original (caps, etc.) if they are bad?

I understand RCA jacks because they usually don’t need replacing.
Old 16th December 2011
  #8
Gear interested
 

Hey Dan,
If it's already leaking it probably won't explode, inasmuch as the leak indicates that the pressure has an outlet. Does the electrolytic get hotter then normal? If so, I would replace it sooner then later.
It (the output of the amp) will probably start humming soon.

The modern electrolytics are much smaller then the 40-50 year old one you are replacing. It shouldn't be hard to hide the replacement under the chassis, or you can "re-stuff" the original like I do when I'm feeling psychotic.
The modern electrolytics have lower impedance which, from an engineering perspective, should improve over-all performance. Good luck hearing the difference, LOL.

As to the other question about the binding posts, the replacements are quite a bit different then the original connectors which I think were just screw-type phenolic barrier strips, like the ones on the back of an old TV set for the antenna connection. Changing something that noticeable hurts the collector value, despite the improvement in functionality.

Peace,
DrRick
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