DRIP Electronics

[bkbirge]

Drip stuff is awesome and with the right component choices can be the highest of high end. He spends a lot of time making sure the circuit layout is the best he can make it. I'm building a 670 next as soon as I can save the $$ for the transformers. Already have the board and passive components.

[A.dash]

Hey thanks so much for your info I really like the RS124 plugins and I want to find something similar to it so I was hoping this may be the answer.

[bkbirge]

You probably know this already but an Altec comp is not an RS124, Abbey Road extensively modified the Altec to get that RS happening, my understanding it is quite different under the hood. The drip stuff is 100% Altec circuit.

[A.dash]

Yah I know I'm trying to see if we can use this board as the foundation and do whatever mods necessary but if you know of any good RS124 clones Im open to that Idea as well.

[A.dash]

By the way do you know anyone who makes chassis for any of the models Drip sales? What are you going to house your 660 in.

[sleepmode]

Originally Posted by A.dash

By the way do you know anyone who makes chassis for any of the models Drip sales? What are you going to house your 660 in.

Peek around here. There is a topic thread for a 670 case. I'm not sure if he has every case for Drip but he has a few.

Also try here. I built a 3U EQP1A with one of his and it worked out well. There were some slight modifications but overall no complaints.

[M.o.T.s]

Their work is top notch.

[Delphino]

I bought the opto t4 board this year and its beatiful. Recommended.

[puppee]

I have compared both a point to point La2a clone and a drips La2a and Drips has really done an excellent job on his version. I found it more quiet than the point to point and it sounds excellent!

[Telefunk]

Originally Posted by puppee

I have compared both a point to point La2a clone and a drips La2a and Drips has really done an excellent job on his version. I found it more quiet than the point to point and it sounds excellent!

Point to point and Drip cannot be compared just like that, because the noise level depends on how the components, trafos etc are placed in the case.

But nonetheless, Drip makes superb PCB's. Highly recommended.

[Johnny Dance]

In the process of getting all the parts for an Opto 4... psyched... much hand holding will be needed but still psyched

[Moatl]

Originally Posted by puppee

I have compared both a point to point La2a clone and a drips La2a and Drips has really done an excellent job on his version. I found it more quiet than the point to point and it sounds excellent!

+1!!
Built with the right components the drip stuff is just awesome!!
I built an opto 4 and am now building a 175b

And the opto 4 sounds marvelous!!

the manuals provided make it easy to understand and the quality of the PCBs make it a pleasure to work with!

[Jimbo]

I plan to drop some cheddar on the new DRIP 175b.

[Slikjmuzik]

All you're buying is the board right? How do you know what parts and where to buy everything to build the rest?

[sleepmode]

Yes, all you are buying is the board but don't think that's all you're getting. Most of his projects have BOMs and pretty good documentation for putting things together. There are recommendations for standard builds or high end (audiophile grade) builds. In the US you can get "standard" parts from Mouser or Digikey. If you really want to go high end you can buy Mundorf caps, Goldpoont switches and carbon resistors. You can spend as much money as you have!

If you plan on making something make sure you read all the threads surrounding your project so you don't repeat the same mistake others have made. Download the manual and read it 10 times before you even start! Stick to a well documented project first then move on to something more complicated.

It's not plug and play and you need all the tools for the job. A drill press, and Dremel tool can really be your friend.

I'm just smart enough to be dangerous but if I can do it.....

[Slikjmuzik]

Originally Posted by sleepmode

Yes, all you are buying is the board but don't think that's all you're getting. Most of his projects have BOMs and pretty good documentation for putting things together. There are recommendations for standard builds or high end (audiophile grade) builds. In the US you can get "standard" parts from Mouser or Digikey. If you really want to go high end you can buy Mundorf caps, Goldpoont switches and carbon resistors. You can spend as much money as you have!

If you plan on making something make sure you read all the threads surrounding your project so you don't repeat the same mistake others have made. Download the manual and read it 10 times before you even start! Stick to a well documented project first then move on to something more complicated.

It's not plug and play and you need all the tools for the job. A drill press, and Dremel tool can really be your friend.

I'm just smart enough to be dangerous but if I can do it.....

Idk, all I've built is cables and patchbays...I'm kind of a chicken with this stuff...

You wouldn't by chance be willing to accept a fee for putting one together if I sent all the parts would ya?

....gorgeous build by the way. I just happen to be a bit better with real wood...

[TornadoTed]

I have all the parts to build a pair of Drip Pultecs, I'm just waiting for the PCB's which are on their way.

Seeing your photos has really wetted my appetite to get stuck in the day they arrive, great work.

I have already built a pair of Drip LA2A's and they are superb, a favourite of mine and a few producers who use my place.

[tubehead]

Originally Posted by sleepmode

Yes, all you are buying is the board but don't think that's all you're getting. Most of his projects have BOMs and pretty good documentation for putting things together. There are recommendations for standard builds or high end (audiophile grade) builds. In the US you can get "standard" parts from Mouser or Digikey. If you really want to go high end you can buy Mundorf caps, Goldpoont switches and carbon resistors. You can spend as much money as you have!

If you plan on making something make sure you read all the threads surrounding your project so you don't repeat the same mistake others have made. Download the manual and read it 10 times before you even start! Stick to a well documented project first then move on to something more complicated.

It's not plug and play and you need all the tools for the job. A drill press, and Dremel tool can really be your friend.

I'm just smart enough to be dangerous but if I can do it.....

Which Chasis are you using?

[sleepmode]

Originally Posted by tubehead

Which Chasis are you using?

This was from Collective cases. It's the 3U version.

[rocksure]

What sort of cost does a build like that run-up by the time all the parts are sourced? Looks great. What have you used on the front panel for knobs etc?

[soundsundergroun]

Drip is the real deal. I built the LA2A for about $900 and it sounds unreal.

[sleepmode]

Originally Posted by rocksure

What sort of cost does a build like that run-up by the time all the parts are sourced? Looks great. What have you used on the front panel for knobs etc?

If I remeber right it was~$1500 give or or take. Sowter Xformers were about half that cost. The knobs I got from RS. They were cheap. I couldn't justify the cost of period correct knobs. Those run about $200 for a set. These twist the pots and switches just as good as the expensive ones! I would rather spend that money on another board from Drip!!

[puppee]

Originally Posted by Telefunk

Point to point and Drip cannot be compared just like that, because the noise level depends on how the components, trafos etc are placed in the case.

But nonetheless, Drip makes superb PCB's. Highly recommended.

Both units were using the same components such as caps, resistors, trnasformers, etc. give or take 4-6 that were different. eg. resistors were different brand.

The point to point had a slight higher noise floor and my friend found the wiring and building a pain.

[Telefunk]

Originally Posted by puppee

Both units were using the same components such as caps, resistors, trnasformers, etc. give or take 4-6 that were different. eg. resistors were different brand.

The point to point had a slight higher noise floor and my friend found the wiring and building a pain.

You can have two pultecs with identical parts but if the placeing of the parts in the case is different, it affects the noise floor more than anything. Mainly the PSU affects the input transformers...that is why it's useless to compare them, or at least it does not pass as proper a pcb vs. p2p comparison.

But like I said Drip Pultec rules!

[rocksure]

Originally Posted by sleepmode

If I remeber right it was~$1500 give or or take. Sowter Xformers were about half that cost. The knobs I got from RS. They were cheap. I couldn't justify the cost of period correct knobs. Those run about $200 for a set. These twist the pots and switches just as good as the expensive ones! I would rather spend that money on another board from Drip!!

Looks really good. I've never actually built anything with tubes in it. Wonder how I'd go doing one. My last project was to rack a pair of Spectra Sonics 110 preamps with transformers. That worked out well. I'd like to do a Pultec..trouble is I know if I did, I'd want a pair so I could use them on Stereo busses, and that would get pretty costly.

[piano]

Ya... the DRIP stuff is second to none. Top notch stuff.

I built some Pultecs with components manufactures would NEVER touch due to the expense. It took me over 6 months to build it with a MIT grad friend of mine.

The tube pultec circuit is basically a sonic improver box. What goes in always sounds better.

[Moatl]

Just in case someone wants to build a Drip Opto 4 - I uploaded those elsewhere here I guess but - maybe it could be interesting for some here in this thread...

...as you can see in the first pic - my build had no T4 cells installed at that time, but the Drip Opto 4 pcb makes it possible to install 2 different T4b cells - like a slow and a fast one, sou you could switch between them ...makes the unit much more versatile

Has anyone here already mentioned that it sounds soo great...

As you can also see in the first pic - I built in a groundlift-option as well

Mine has NOS RCA and Telefunken Tubes and Sowter 1009 and 1010 Trannys,
the case is from Purusha - alltogether it cost me around 900 bucks...

[MikeRL]

Anyone build the Drip "redd 47" pre.. or whatever its called?

I am interested in this. As i would love a nice hairy sounding tube pre, and certainly can't afford a D.W. Fearn.


mike

[malaclypse]

clips anyone?