Soldering Lesson

[JB872]

It looks like I'm gonna have to do my own soldering because I'm a cheap bastard. I've never really been good at it and could use some tips on the proper method. I'll be soldering 48 TRS and 20 XLR male and female connectors on to a couple Mogami 24 channel snakes. What connectors should I go with and where can I find them at a decent price?

Jason

[mltamisin]

I try to use neutriks. They seem to work well and don't break so easily. I think Full Compass carries all that stuff. Call em cuz the website sux.

[Sqye]

I know where you can get an AWESOME finger massage when you're done

Full Compass is kinda expensive, no?? I'd shop around, if you are the cheap bastard you SAY you are

[Drifter]

Parts express.............

[sekim]

Originally Posted by JB872

It looks like I'm gonna have to do my own soldering because I'm a cheap bastard. I've never really been good at it and could use some tips on the proper method.

Both things being soldered together - the wire and the connector - have to be hot enough to melt the solder. The connector takes longer to heat up than the wire. Flow the solder on the parts you are soldering, not on the iron. Use a 25-35 watt or so iron for what you're talking about doing and try not to breath the smoke! [edit] and keep the tip tinned properly!

[JB872]

Originally Posted by sekim

Both things being soldered together - the wire and the connector - have to be hot enough to melt the solder. The connector takes longer to heat up than the wire. Flow the solder on the parts you are soldering, not on the iron. Use a 25-35 watt or so iron for what you're talking about doing and try not to breath the smoke! [edit] and keep the tip tinned properly!

So the solder never touches the iron of the soldering gun, and the soldering gun is used to heat up the connector and wire...correct?

[JB872]

Originally Posted by Sqye

I know where you can get an AWESOME finger massage when you're done

Full Compass is kinda expensive, no?? I'd shop around, if you are the cheap bastard you SAY you are

Do you agree that Neutric is the way to go?

[sekim]

Originally Posted by JB872

So the solder never touches the iron of the soldering gun, and the soldering gun is used to heat up the connector and wire...correct?

I'd make sure if you use a gun it's low wattage - less than 50 for sure or you'll melt the wire insulation quite a bit and have a mess. A 35 watt iron at Radio Shack is a good for under $10.

The solder will touch the tip, in fact you need a little to help conduct the heat, but the idea is NOT to melt the solder on the tip and let it glop down onto the connector and wire - you want to heat the parts and flow the solder on them. You can give two or three seconds of "insurance heating" of the melted solder when you finish flowing just to make sure if you want (provided you have a low wattage iron).

BTW - Neutric is good.

[joeq]

Originally Posted by JB872

Do you agree that Neutric is the way to go?

I find the Neutrik easier to work with for my clumsy fingers. A good 'helping hands' is a must, and again for me anyway a pair of strong magnifying glasses. Oh, and nippy cutters.


don't forget to slide the sleeves on the cable before you solder the wires!

[Drifter]

I don't remember it being hard to learn when I was 14. I think most people get intimidated by the heat factor and molten metal. It's a breeze, you will burn the hell out of your self a few times, but eventually you will have your fill and won't do it any more. The best way to develop and advance your skill in anything really is to do it, just don't start out on surface mount stuff, then you would be setting your self up to fail.

My .02

[crna59]

Here's a cool webpage you might want to read.

Learning How to Solder

Regards,

[JB872]

Thanx for all the advice. I apologize for posting in the wrong section

[robot gigante]

Originally Posted by crna59

Here's a cool webpage you might want to read.

Learning How to Solder

Regards,

(from site) Try not to be making repairs when you are dressed in Polyester, Rayon or Spandex.

[lynyrd]

One little pointer I have for you being a novice solderer (as I still am,but I have completed a 24 channel Mogami snake and several mic cables) is to plug your male xlr into a female (or vice versa ) before you solder. It really helps keep the pins from shifting in the jack while the plastic is hot and soft. Also, keep wiping the tip with a damp rag, it not only helps keep it clean but also helps with the transfer of heat from the tip to the object you are soldering. While I am rambling on, I might add that I have had way better success soldering with an iron rather than a gun. Constant immediate heat.

Good luck, Doug P.

[Shandy]

Both of these are pretty good for picking up the basics:

http://www.digitalprosound.com/2003/...ldering101.htm

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1994...soldering.html

[joaquin]

http://gearslutz.com/board/showthrea...ight=cable+diy

may be helpful!

[JB872]

Great links. More than enough information to get me started here. A couple more questions though. What connectors do I go with...gold or silver? And what company is offering the best deals on neutrik connectors?

Jason

[Jax]

Originally Posted by Drifter

Parts express.............

Well.. you can do alot better than parts express. http://www.audiogear.com/Neutrik3PinXLR.html

Cheapest prices I've even seen and I have LOOKED!

Use Flux

[JB872]

Originally Posted by Jax

Well.. you can do alot better than parts express. http://www.audiogear.com/Neutrik3PinXLR.html

Cheapest prices I've even seen and I have LOOKED!

Thanx for the suggestion but I think Have Inc has them beat. $1.66/per Neutrik XLR M is the best I've found so far.

[joaquin]

Originally Posted by JB872

... And what company is offering the best deals on neutrik connectors?

Jason

http://www.redco.com/ stike

[Jon Kraft]

I like the neutriks a lot better than the switchcraft xlrs. Smaller, lighter, better strain relief NO SET SCREWS... I just ordered male/female for like 1.64/1.74 at www.markertek.com. They've always had good prices. Used them for years.

Jon

[brianroth]

My 2 cents...

Ever since I attended "Crown amplifier school" back in the mid 1970's, I've used a Weller W60 pencil iron. While the element is 60 Watt, the tips regulate the heat. I use 700 degree F tips. Fancier soldering irons have a "base station" which regulates the temperature, but they are MUCH bulkier and thus a hassle to take to remote worksites.

Use 63/37 "eutectic" solder. Lower melting point than 60/40, and the "eutectic" property means is snaps from liquid to solid, thus avoiding the pasty stage of 60/40, which virtually eliminates cold solder joints.

I seldom use a solder gun, but I do have a Weller for those hefty connections, like soldering heavy wire onto banana jacks.

Bri

[Psyko/Acoustics]

Some other considerations that will make things a little easier/harder depending on your application;

The size of the tip can be a factor in the swiftness/accuracy of your work if using an iron with removable tips, I liked a slightly fatter one with a flatter tip (as opposed to pointy) for audio wire.

Not so for surface mount stuff.

I completely agree with the above comments regarding soldering stations, better for the lab than on location.

Also, the thickness of your solder can make things easier as well, when my Electrical Eng. stepdad saw my thicker solder he laughed and said "what're you doing, plumbing?"... But then when he was showing me how to tin the shield on a cable he realized the extra flow can be helpful.

I clean my iron after each joint, the leftover goop becomes a pain (get the flux outta there)... and don't soak the iron with your sponge!


Hope any of this is useful... I'm one of those twisted individuals who actually enjoys soldering.

[nathanvacha]

Originally Posted by brianroth

....Weller W60 pencil iron.....
......63/37 "eutectic" solder. ...
Bri

I could probably just look it up, but anyone want to throw me a quick link to where you'd buy something like that? The iron & the solder... I'm really not that well versed... but i need to be.

Oh, and i like neutrik's for their xlr's, but... i really prefer the switchcraft t.r.s. jacks. They just seem sturdier to me. Sturdier and simpler.

[zimv20]

Originally Posted by nathanvacha

anyone want to throw me a quick link to where you'd buy something like that? The iron & the solder...

http://www.all-spec.com/